Not so much a clone Hemi Dart

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I have to agree with you. My Barton I port matched and spent time at the plenum rounding the short radius’s. Was sceptical running the 1250 but it handled it ok. My best was with 32 degrees, very minimal drop from 34 degrees, 1 or 2 HP only. All my runs were also running stinky 91 octane. Edit - forgot to mention that we tired a few different spacers and the shear plate was a game changer. It picked up I think it was about 15HP. I said, leave that shear plate right where it is, it’s coming with me.

You happen to have the part number for that sheer plate?
 
You happen to have the part number for that sheer plate?
I don’t have the part number, there’s no markings on it but I’ve got a picture.
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It’s 1/2” thick. The 1250 worked best with 93 main and .028 high speed jets @ 32 degrees. It’s surprising to see what spacers do. This reversion or shear plate worked like a damn on the Barton while a super sucker spacer sent it the other way.

I made a pass with the 505 in the Plymouth with this shear plate on top of a Super Victor intake, it didn’t change the time slip from the previous pass with a 4-hole 1/2” wood spacer. But having said that the air was getting worse so perhaps there was a touch.
Hope this helps.
 
Great numbers. Good plan to dial in with the dominator and then switch to the crossram
 
Still plugging away. Made a fore/aft mount
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Landed on using a 90 amp alt off a 90 dodge truck
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Bought a Griffen B body radiator, didn’t fit as good as I like and sat closer to the engine than my Smith did. I robbed the smith for the roadrunner a few years ago. So pulled the old swap on those.

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Mounted up some late model charger brushless fans to the smith.
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And had to **** can my billet water pump for an alum housing and drop in meziere pump. Saved me a much needed inch..

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All good upgrades. Are you going to street drive this? If so I’m interested to see how the meziere pump set up works. I also put my limiters where you did. Nice to see it all back together!

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All good upgrades. Are you going to street drive this? If so I’m interested to see how the meziere pump set up works. I also put my limiters where you did. Nice to see it all back together!

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I do plan to street drive it, my buddy runs the same set up on his big block dart and it seems to work for him on the street. Time will tell though.
 
Getting close, shuffled around the garage today to put the car on my 4 post where I can get the doors wide open and pull seats to work on the wiring. My 8 year old did the steering and braking duties while I pulled it with the mower. Didn’t even have to yell at him.. lol It’s got a bit to much front end travel for my bridge jack. I’ll have to get creative to get the front wheels back off to finish the wiring.

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68 HEMI GTS I've been following along! Awesome build.

what was the length difference on the water pump (billet vs stock alum)?
Are you using the 35 gpm pump?

Thanks, John
 
Got my Hemi going. I have a pair of L88 vacuum 850’s on it. List 3418. It was stupid fat with the factory calibration. Right around 12’0-11.9 at idle. Idle screws were un-responsive. Went into the 10’s with some throttle and was just loading up. Made my first whack at it, dropped the IFR from .038 to .032 on the primary. Added a transfer slot restriction of .059. Drilled the primary plates to get back on the idle circuit. Instantly better. Idles in the 14’s and starts with just a bump of the key. Goes into the 12’s when I rev it up. I’ll lean it a bit more once I can drive it. I have a few other issues to straighten out but it’s running good enough to move it around without killing the plugs. Gave it a half throttle hit in front of the house and it has stupid power..

 
Well I’ve noticed a vibration as soon as I started up the engine in the car. Deep down I knew what it was but I’ve spent some time trying to rule out other possibilities. Got up this morning and did some math, made some phone calls, and have came to the conclusion that the crank was balanced about 214 grams lighter on the bobweight than what it should have been. ( I bought the rotating assembly as a balanced kit). So I get to take it all back apart to have some Malory slugs added to get it back in line. So close, damn i was looking forward to driving this thing this year. It vibrates so bad at about 2500 it backed out one of my fender bolts.. the company that balanced it isn’t quite sure how we ended up here but they did offer to re-balance the crank for free. So I’ll be making the 2.5 hr drive to take them up on it. Glad the thing didn’t grenade on the dyno…
 
Well I’ve noticed a vibration as soon as I started up the engine in the car. Deep down I knew what it was but I’ve spent some time trying to rule out other possibilities. Got up this morning and did some math, made some phone calls, and have came to the conclusion that the crank was balanced about 214 grams lighter on the bobweight than what it should have been. ( I bought the rotating assembly as a balanced kit). So I get to take it all back apart to have some Malory slugs added to get it back in line. So close, damn i was looking forward to driving this thing this year. It vibrates so bad at about 2500 it backed out one of my fender bolts.. the company that balanced it isn’t quite sure how we ended up here but they did offer to re-balance the crank for free. So I’ll be making the 2.5 hr drive to take them up on it. Glad the thing didn’t grenade on the dyno…
Man that is unfortunate that you have to pull it all back down, at the same time fortunate you caught it before any damage. Beautiful car!

" Build a hotrod, it will be fun" they said!
 
Engine is out and apart..

Hmm why does my 800hp hemi vibrate like a *****. After tearing it down and running the numbers myself it’s only 229 grams light on the bob-weight it was balanced too… their bob-weight 2199. My bobweight 2428…. I should have caught this one before I assembled it, live and learn.

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Glad you found the issue, although a lot of work. How did everything look on disassembly?
 
Glad you found the issue, although a lot of work. How did everything look on disassembly?

Everything looks pretty good. I was worried the mains might be screwed up from the balance issue but they look ok. Biggest decision I have is do I reuse the rings or put a new set in. I have a set ordered so I’ll probably just start fresh again. Just have to wait 6 weeks. Gonna run the bearings I think.

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Dropped the crank off a week ago about 2.5hrs away. They are going to fix the balance and send it back. Heads were really nasty from all the oil it sucked in when it had the vacuum leak. Looking at them the valve job looks kind of beat up as well. Cleaning them up and going to drop them off for a closer look and touch up if needed..

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Wow!
The crank must have been way off to need that much mallory metal...
 
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