OzyDuster74 chassis connector questions!!

-
Ozyduster said:
Nice! I have one inch drop calverts which probably not enough but need to pass the pits first. I may need to add a block as well. Are the hd standard height or lower?
Click to expand...
+2 inches
 
So finally got my chassis connectors, these are for a Australian A body so should be the same except hand brake hole on other side. I am waiting on the torque boxes from USA as shipping wasn't too bad.
Questions
How do people set up the hand brake assembly? as the right side chassis connector blocks where the tensioner rod would normally hook to on original chassis.
Did you fit the torque boxes first or the connectors
What did you do with brake and fuel lines any changes required
IMG_2492.JPG
 
Last edited:
if you mean where the cable goes through the torsion bar crossmember, i redrilled the crossmember so the cable runs 'inside' (nearer the tunnel) where the frame connectors mount. if that's not what you meant ignore me. lol.
neil.
 
mygasser said:
if you mean where the cable goes through the torsion bar crossmember, i redrilled the crossmember so the cable runs 'inside' (nearer the tunnel) where the frame connectors mount. if that's not what you meant ignore me. lol.
neil.
Click to expand...
Yep but your cable also has a metal rod that hooks onto the crossmember on right side. Its used to tension the cable. Where did you remount this rod?
 
from memory i bent a dog leg in it to shorten it. either that or i shortened it and re bent a hook on the end. it's been a while and i've been asleep since then, lol.
neil.
 
So had a big win in terms of my conversion!!!! Found the rare as hens teeth Holley conversion headers on ebay. Had to read the add three times to make sure it was them as they no longer made by Holley and no one has any in stock!!!
Just need to buy the engine and sump now haha. Been quiet with the build as my company is crazy busy at the moment. But we will weld the sub frame gear in soon then strip the front suspension out. Sad thing is i have all the parts just not the time. As i am trying to finish the renovation on my home, have a 2.5 and 5.5 year old and run my own company haha so lifes very busy. I dont want to just pay someone else to do all the work
pipes.png
 
Ozyduster said:
So we found that from slamming the doors the B pillars had rolled in. Very common on old coupes, the dead give away was guard to door was perfect and only half the door gap correct from door to quarter as the B pillar rolling in. Pretty much impossible to have bottom half of door correct and top half wrong
View attachment 1716192486
So porta power and fixed!! Its things like this many people miss and wonder why they could never get their gaps correct and everything to line up when done.
View attachment 1716192485
Drivers side now pretty much all completed other than a very small rust repair at the bottom of the door.

View attachment 1716192488
Click to expand...
Thats good work on the door gap , will have to look closer at my own project
 
72dustervs said:
Thats good work on the door gap , will have to look closer at my own project
Click to expand...
Yes apparently really common on old coupes with no B pillar. Makes sense as the door lines up very odly and no adjustment on the hinge would have had it correct
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top