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Mine goes almost the floor but still hits the built in stop just before. I clocked mine to sit lower (Ross will tell you options when you call for tech support on silly things like I did) as my brake pedal is set lower due to limited rod length (story of my life). If installed in stock...

https://www.malwoodusa.com/uncategorized/1967-76-a-body-mopar-hydraulic-master-cylinder-clutch-pedal-kit-billet-reservoir-2/ https://www.malwoodusa.com/mopar-flat-bearings/mopar-cherry-bearing-kit-proprietary-easy-bleed-technology-swivel-line-proprietary-design/

buy the pedal right from malwood, and buy their bearing. It has the bleeder where it should be, better bearing in general. Malwoodusa I think is the website. I’ll take pics of the whole thing tomorrow

Seems to me whoever the builder is, is also a member of this site and a viewer of this thread. There are no coincidences in this hobby....

Sounds like your builder is waiting for a suitable core to build, which would be very unpredictable

Is it a budget issue or originality issue sticking with Z bar? I cannot say enough about how pleased I am with the Malwood underdash pedal system. If you buy the pedal and a Ram mopar hydraulic bearing its under $1,000 which is a big bite but well worth it. Anyway for what its worth...

Do we actually know what your fuel pressure is?

110...110 sorry!!

When does an aggressive camshaft become an issue with the Sniper? Running 440 with 241/247 duration at .050, 545 lift both, and 110 LSA

if you go hydraulic, go with the Malwood under dash kit....Amazing kit and simplifies things quite a bit

Ignition is changed already, Pertronix one wire hot distributor

My wiring has been like all of them, hacked and jimmy rigged by all the previous owners. Any recommendations for a full wiring harness? I don't need it to have an alternator regulator harness, I am one wire hot alternator. I don't need wiring for ballast, happy with just hot coil. Can...

Ok good, because that is what I did and then asked.... Did not want to admit it until I knew that was the fix lol

I am a little mind boggled.... Bought Spicer 7260 u joints, they won't actually fit in because the 'meat' in the center of the joint is hitting if that makes any sense? Does one dremel it a bit so it will clear? It is a miniscule amount but it will not allow it to go in. Not talking about...

If anyone wants a clutch that feels like even easier than a new Hyundai effort wise, hydraulic using the Malwood under dash pedal system is amazing. Slightly off topic but lots of people swap to auto as we get older, this should buy some alot more years

It just looks unsettling, but as per everything I read, and witnessed with mine the gap vanishes once its bled and in use. Meaning it would be way too tight if installed without gap, and leaving no room for disc wear.

Appreciate the info guys, tackling it this week.. Yes it is an A833, I bought Redline fluid, specifically the one without additive as I read the one with additive is bad for the brass synchronizers. I did not realize that that synthetic would be an issue however... I will have to re think...

Just finished my 4 speed swap, and need to install the carpet I bought from rock auto... Just their generic one but made sure it was for 4 speed... I assume the shape is different for the tunnel hump? Anyway, need help getting my head around install. Do I cut out the shifter opening but it...

Just a collector leak, easy fix. Update on the Malwood system with Hydramax. Works great in driveway and backlane testing. As far as pedal feel and effort, with actual seat installed it is like a brand new Hyundai for example effort wise. Very pleased so far.

After reading this I am really liking my decision to use the 400hp mcleod clutch on my recent 4 speed swap into my 440 Duster, nice circuit breaker

Funny you say that, I forgot I had the quart size one that used to fill my ford trans years ago.... Oops... Yes I thought the fitting was a good idea and it worked really well. Started the car, put just the rear in the air and rowed through the gears. Weird noise on the passenger side, like...

Just filled trans in car, I’m sure this has been done before but this was my $10 idea to make it a snap and not spill a drop

Original 4 speed car or auto?

Sooooo, latest is the reverse rod will hit how I ran the x pipe… can’t win for losing but it’s a fun game none the less

Pedal feels very good. I was pushing it sitting on a milk crate as my car is still half apart, so should be even easier with a proper seat. I would say on par with a fox mustang without the changing arc of the quandrant. There is a slot in the firewall for a factory clutch rod (I believe)...

What width? I see several options and googling makes it worse lol

Are you routed crank to PS only, or water pump as well?

Anyone have an idea of what belt size? I assume I run a string to get my measurement, but curious if someone remembers what they used to get me something to compare to

I was reading through the comments a bit. I get the reluctance of having the master under the dash, but for idiots like me it saved sooo much fab time with making the AP or similar kit mount correctly with enough backing for flex on the firewall, the math on the pedal travel, pedal stop, etc...

I just installed mine on the weekend and can confirm there is no interference. I drilled a hole through the oblong body plug which I think is for a factory clutch rod for the pressure hose, lines up perfectly with the master feed fitting.