Malwood underdash hydraulic kit for A-Bodies

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Pedal feels very good. I was pushing it sitting on a milk crate as my car is still half apart, so should be even easier with a proper seat. I would say on par with a fox mustang without the changing arc of the quandrant.

There is a slot in the firewall for a factory clutch rod (I believe), mine is an auto car so it had an oblong body plug. I drilled a hole in the plug and it was right in line with the fitting on the Malwood master.

The reservoir line I ran through a hole just below the main pinch weld, looped it down a bit and mounted the reservoir above the pinch weld. Clears the hood and Ross and Malwood said as long as the reservoir is higher than the master it will be fine, you could tie the hose in a knot and it would not matter.

When I get a second hand in the garage I will take a video of it in action, as well I will show the install and routing of the lines
 
Muswagon said:
Pedal feels very good. I was pushing it sitting on a milk crate as my car is still half apart, so should be even easier with a proper seat. I would say on par with a fox mustang without the changing arc of the quandrant.

There is a slot in the firewall for a factory clutch rod (I believe), mine is an auto car so it had an oblong body plug. I drilled a hole in the plug and it was right in line with the fitting on the Malwood master.

The reservoir line I ran through a hole just below the main pinch weld, looped it down a bit and mounted the reservoir above the pinch weld. Clears the hood and Ross and Malwood said as long as the reservoir is higher than the master it will be fine, you could tie the hose in a knot and it would not matter.

When I get a second hand in the garage I will take a video of it in action, as well I will show the install and routing of the lines
Click to expand...
Thanks for the update!
 
DionR said:
Just to follow up on this, my brother mounted his Malwood kit and found that the stock under dash e-brake setup no longer fits. The MC interferes with it.

He is going to an electric actuated e-brake rather than a hand pull setup. But maybe not for everyone so thought I would make it known.
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Literally just ran into this myself. I was a bit dissapointed as there was no mention of this anywhere. So now.. I need to figure out a new e-brake setup as well.
It never ends.
 
PhotoGreg said:
Literally just ran into this myself. I was a bit dissapointed as there was no mention of this anywhere. So now.. I need to figure out a new e-brake setup as well.
It never ends.
Click to expand...

Any chance you could post some pictures and specifics? Be nice to be able to figure out why some work and others don’t.
 
PhotoGreg said:
Literally just ran into this myself. I was a bit dissapointed as there was no mention of this anywhere. So now.. I need to figure out a new e-brake setup as well.
It never ends.
Click to expand...


Original 4 speed car or auto?
 
I have been following this thread and I'm convinced that this is the route I'd like to take in my '74 Duster "re-rebuild". This is the second time I rebuild the car.

I'm about to pull the trigger on calling American Powertrain for their kit. They don't have a kit specifically with the Malwood Clutch Pedal and their hydraulic Throw-out Bearing, but I talked to them (Josh) and they said that they can put one together since they do have a hydraulic clutch kit for the A833 4 Speed. They are just taking two kits and making a new one.

Before I pull the trigger, are they any updates on this thread? Pictures?

Also, any reason against the American Powertrain hydraulic Throw-out bearing, specifically? I mean, as opposed to RAM or McCleod? Thanks!
 
buy the pedal right from malwood, and buy their bearing. It has the bleeder where it should be, better bearing in general. Malwoodusa I think is the website. I’ll take pics of the whole thing tomorrow
 
Muswagon said:
buy the pedal right from malwood, and buy their bearing. It has the bleeder where it should be, better bearing in general. Malwoodusa I think is the website. I’ll take pics of the whole thing tomorrow
Click to expand...

Any part #'s or SKUs would be helpful.
 
go-fish said:
Any part #'s or SKUs would be helpful.
Click to expand...


www.malwoodusa.com

1967-76 A-BODY MOPAR - – Hydraulic Master Cylinder Clutch Pedal Kit (Billet Reservoir) - MalWood USA

MalWood’s hydraulic clutch pedal kit converts your existing manual clutch pedal or Automatic pedals into a hydraulics system
www.malwoodusa.com www.malwoodusa.com

www.malwoodusa.com

MOPAR Cherry Bearing kit, Proprietary, easy, bleed, technology Swivel line proprietary design - MalWood USA

Chevy Cherry Bearing kit, swivel hydraulic lines, UPDATED FEATURES Easy bleed technology, beveled seating surface for easy install Chevy Ford & Mopar availa
www.malwoodusa.com www.malwoodusa.com
 
Muswagon said:
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Oh nice! I didn't even realize that they (Malwood) carried a bearing. I might as well get everything from them. Thanks!

@Muswagon I have a couple more questions since you already have it installed. When you push the pedal, does the pedal go all the way to the floor? I mean... where does the pedal rest when you push it all the way down? I was just curious about this. Do you have your car already running and driving?
 
Mine goes almost the floor but still hits the built in stop just before. I clocked mine to sit lower (Ross will tell you options when you call for tech support on silly things like I did) as my brake pedal is set lower due to limited rod length (story of my life).

If installed in stock location it will hit the built in stop well above floor.

Clutch pedal feels like a new civic effort and smoothness wise.

Yes running and driving, it works very very well
 
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