Jim, I sent my A 100 box off to " Lares ". Only place I could find that said they would rebuild it. Over $700 and when it came back it was just as sloppy as the one I sent them ! I would avoid them to say the least.
1966/'69 A100 Twins Build
- Thread starter Jim Kueneman
- Start date
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I sure do admire your ability for metal work. I just caint do it and I need some done on Vixen badly.
Just spitballin here, but have you thought about something like this?
I have been happy with Lares on Conventional Mopar pumps and Gearboxes. But i have had Two Different A-100 boxes done by other vendors and was not Happy.(More play than i was expecting).If Lares is Shitty with these ,then who is available ? Steer n Gear ? I believe the problem is Lack of parts and Demand for the '64-'70 A-100 Steering gear.
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The problem is the "pocket" where this sits on the A100. It isn't like a car where the gear is just floating in space. There is a small pocket that is constrained on 3 sides (2 being the frame) that it has to fit into. Also there isn't a coupler, the steering shaft and and tube are part of the gear. There would be a lot of cutting and hacking I think to try to change to a different gear. There is nothing wrong with this on other than the seals were crumbling.
340sFastback
Well-Known Member
Hopefully can find seals to fit that steering box. Gonna need good steering when you stomp that gas pedal down with that 408 with headers.....
Not really needed as the wheels likely won’t be on the ground anyway
PC-7 is the only stuff that I’ve seen work and last for fixing steering wheels. Open up all the cracks you can find with a disk and go in angles to try to undercut so you can get sort of a dovetail lock of the epoxy once you spread it in the groove. That epoxy is like tar so once you get it sort of done, you can wet a rubber glove with acetone and smooth it out as the final step. There’s a ton of working time, so no reason to hurry with this stuff.
It’s never a good day to blast and paint but as good as any today. Pretty much everything is in epoxy primer so it’ll never rust again! Maybe a few extra little parts here and there but 99% of the parts are done and ready for assembly.
1969cuda
Well-Known Member
Curious as to what water/heater valve you are going to use.
Been researching what to do as I can’t find a NOS one for this. The original is eaten away and total garbage.
1969cuda
Well-Known Member
Mine was too, and I looked for years for an NOS one. I had to go with this.
Looks like what I’ve been looking at. Can you give me a part number and manufacture?
1969cuda
Well-Known Member
Four Seasons heater valve pn 74662
My Granger seals fit like a glove. The shims for preload seem to be black = 0.010, red = 0.005” and white = 0.0025. I experimented with removing the red and it bound up too much and with the white gone it had just a bit more resistance to turn than with the bolts loose. I assumed that wear likely had loosened it up some and I could take 0.0025” out of seems to have played out that way. Used grey sealer instead of the gasket on the side cover. I made sure that there was plenty of play with the sector gear adjustment screw to compensate the 0.030” gasket and there was. All adjusted. If you get the preloads too tight it will be hard to keep it in the road as the gear will “stick” then “pop” to the next location which likely will be more than you need and it will be a constant left to right with the wheel trying to find the perfect spot (which you can’t achieve with the steps as it pops to a new position). Those who adjusted motorcycle heads will likely know exactly how this all should feel. Just need to cut the clamp half off the 3 speed selector mechanism (not needed for the 727), wait for the grey sealer to cure overnight and fill it with 90 weight.
And tomorrow’s project all laid out. I have already inspected the thermal nichrome wire in the gauges and they look really good on this. You can tell when they’re not looking so good and the ceramic coating on the wire is crumbling and falling off these look great. I will be taking the gas gauge apart to clip out the bi metallic regulators so I can install, the RTE microcontroller regulator with current limit to protect things just in case one of those thermal wires does short out in the future.
[May be awhile until Google Drives finishes processing these]
How do thermal gauges work anyway....
Mostly finished and the test out.
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340sFastback
Well-Known Member
Instruments look outstanding
1969cuda
Well-Known Member
They look as good as my NOS gauges 
mygasser
Well-Known Member
re the 90w in the steering box, if you can get it i'd use landrover front hub swivel lube. it's not oil and it's not grease, sort of halfway between the two. this is it on uk ebay... landrover front swivel grease for sale | eBay
you'll never have a leak again.
neil.
you'll never have a leak again.
neil.
They look as good as my NOS gauges
Purists could tell the difference between the decals and the original silkscreen
Model time lol!
mopowers
Well-Known Member
Thanks for posting that. Those look identical to the ones on my '66 Dart. Turns out, a couple of mine are busted. This certainly beats tack welding a nut like I was planning.
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