340 Oil Priming Question First Start
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furrystump
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The shafts could have drained back, so it needs to fill the shafts again. No downside to just spinning the oil pump and just turn the crank 5 degrees at a time, look for oil. Give it a second each time. Repeat. Remember you need two full crank revolutions.
plumkrazee70
Well-Known Member
I've done this alone by zip thing the trigger on the drill. Then turning the crank slowly. Should see oil, relatively quickly.
Guys I must not be making myself clear. This is what I have done::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
Wife manning drill holding constant 60 psi.
Me turning the crank by hand with a 1/2 in ratchet slowly.
Both of us watching for any kind of flow.
We did 3 sessions of 3 full cycles of all the valves going thru both cycles.
Result:
Some drips under the rocker arms no flow out the rocker arm hole. Nothing out the rocker arm hole nothing dry no drip.
Wife manning drill holding constant 60 psi.
Me turning the crank by hand with a 1/2 in ratchet slowly.
Both of us watching for any kind of flow.
We did 3 sessions of 3 full cycles of all the valves going thru both cycles.
Result:
Some drips under the rocker arms no flow out the rocker arm hole. Nothing out the rocker arm hole nothing dry no drip.
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
pull the rocker shafts off and see what the oil does. watch out though. oil may shoot out. lol
Dan the man
Well-Known Member
Has this engine ever ran before? Was it just recently overhauled? We've had engines sit for years and we didn't have any trouble getting the system to oil. Was the engine protected from dirt, dust,grime during it's 5 years of not being used? I think that I would release the rockers so that the valve's don't open and spin the engine over with the starter. Turning the crankshaft over by hand maybe to slow. I know that it's been said that doing this could cause camshaft damage and that's why I suggested to loosen the rockers also a heavy grease could be applied to the cam lobes. Nothing else has worked up to this point. If he has 60 lbs of oil pressure, that tells me that the rod and main bearings are getting oil.
junkyardhero
Well-Known Member
i second this course of action.
I have never pulled the rocker shafts off. I’ll look at the factory service manual. Does the whole assembly come off or is it a complete disassembly?
Engine safely stored and it ran before it was left in the car. Was not touched.
junkyardhero
Well-Known Member
they come off as an assembly. 5 bolts and the whole thing lifts off.
review the FSM but take note that the torque figure for the attachment bolts is incorrect in some printings. it should be 15~17 ft/lb not the 30-something that is listed.
Can someone please confirm that oil should flow from these holes in the rocker arms? I am assuming so but don’t know for sure.
Inertia
Well-Known Member
Excuse me, but you really only need to pull the second rocker shaft bolt back on the drivers side, and the 4 th rocker bolt back on the passenger side to expose the oil gallery.
Oil will shoot outta there when you get the right positions.
Inertia
Well-Known Member
These are 3 old cams I had in my shop, 2 have oiling holes in the same position in relation to keyway, the other is different, so using timing marks isn't reliable to find rocker oiling location.
I don't have a timing set handy to set the cam timing up to crank.
I don't have a timing set handy to set the cam timing up to crank.
Check your rocker shafts for correct orientation. From the 1970 service manual in 340 section:
"Install rocker arm and shaft assemblies with "NOTCH" on end of rocker shaft pointing to centerline of engine and toward front of engine on the left bank and to the rear on right bank..."
"Install rocker arm and shaft assemblies with "NOTCH" on end of rocker shaft pointing to centerline of engine and toward front of engine on the left bank and to the rear on right bank..."
plumkrazee70
Well-Known Member
Yes, when operating correctly, oil should come out of those holes.
How are these bolts numbered? This would be an easy way to see if both rocker rods might be clogged?
Inertia
Well-Known Member
They aren't officially numbered to my knowledge, only as I stated.
Drape a cloth over the holes cuz when you get it right, it may deliver a blast .
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Yep, mine and @CFD244 oil timing were different than each other's. Timing doesn't matter as long as each head gets a squirt per cam revolution.
I was able to run drill and spin crank with it on engine stand.
I was able to run drill and spin crank with it on engine stand.
Inertia
Well-Known Member
That hole thru the rocker shaft can be probed all the way to the cam, but I don't recommend it, if you chop the end off with the cam, drama.
There's a bend and a restriction at the hd gskt,
There's a bend and a restriction at the hd gskt,
When you say 2nd and 4th bolt how are you referencing them?
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Have you tried setting the crank at the positions noted above in post 21? As said by others, some aftermarket cams are drilled differently but MOST are not. Set the crank at 90 degrees BTDC on number 1 compression, run drill for 2 minutes. Passenger side should oil. Rotate crank to 20 degrees ATDC on number one on spit overlap, run drill for 2 minutes, the driver side should oil. Do this next before taking anything apart.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
From the front of the engine counting backwards.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Holy crap man, take the entire rocker assemblies off. What's the worry? What is it? 5 bolts each and they're on the work bench. Stop trying to cut corners and find out what's wrong. You have all of us here to help guide you if you get stuck. It's a very simple process and they NEED to come off to check everything. Just removing one or two bolts at this point? Makes no sense. Get to the root of it.
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