440 purchase

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Calipag said:
Picked up the motor, borescoped the cylinders, they were clean and free of any rust pulled the valve covers and this is what I found. Looked under the coil mount for numbers and there is a H440 stamp and a 1 10 2. I didn't see any other numbers. I put some light oil in all the cylinders and across the valve train and I'm going to let it sit for a bit while I plug up the holes to give her a bath before trying to give her a turn.

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Nice find!
 
Your 1972 440 is looking like a great deal.

See that freeze plug with the epoxied on id washer? From a machine shop/rebuilder.

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413 said:
Your 1972 440 is looking like a great deal.

See that freeze plug with the epoxied on id washer? From a machine shop/rebuilder.

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Thank you. Why do you say 1972 when some have said pre 1969. I'm looking for number to verify year etc but have not found anything concrete. We paid $500; not sure deal or not. We've discussed putting it in my sons Dart but realize now that may be a bigger job (money wise) than we are ready for. It currently has a fresh 318 and 904.

I want to thank everyone for all the words of encouragement and help with this.
 
oldkimmer said:
On the passenger side just above the oil pan rail there should be a umber such as 2C 123456. What is on yours if anything. Kim
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Kim, I've looked all over the Google machine to decode that number and have not come up with a site that explains what those numbers mean. Can you please send me a link if you have one. Thank you
 
It's the year (2) and the C is for Jefferson assembly plant. The rest is the sequence number of the vin for the car it was assigned to.
 
Funny I just found that info here on the forum. Thank you.

Also, the pad info I posted is incorrect and really cleaning and looking at it closely it show. 1 10 H 2 Not sure yet what that means.
 
look at the I.D. pad below the dist. If it's got a bunch of X's, or maybe it's H's on that pad I'm told that was or hasor is plagued with defects from the factory and was remanned before it left the factory.
 
The rockers and intake are worth more than what you paid. Plus the heads are most likely machined for double springs! Tach drive distributor and early chrome valve covers.....score
 
You cant do a compression test with a breaker bar!!!!! Oil the cylinders and top end then get a starter on it. Squirting a little oil in the intake and exhaust ports will help.
 
1968rt said:
You cant do a compression test with a breaker bar!!!!! Oil the cylinders and top end then get a starter on it. Squirting a little oil in the intake and exhaust ports will help.
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need to spin it with the starter to get the air in to compress
 
Before you spin it with the starter, make sure it has some oil in it, preferably fresh, and prime the oiling system prior to doing it. Not just for lubrication but to also fill the lifters. Then spin it on the starter and you’ll get accurate numbers.

Edited to add:
I guess with those rockers, verifying what lifters it has in it would be important.
 
You scored some nice parts. Some people really like that intake manifold and the adjustable rocker arms are worth money if they haven't been chewed up too bad. The deep pan is a clue that it was built for racing so you might find some more HD parts on the inside. Most likely forged pistons, a HV oil pump, roller chain, 3 bolt cam, etc.
 
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