67 GTS 4-Speed: Daily Summer Driver

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This past thanksgiving weekend I went back to my folks place and got a little work done on the GTS. I had my sister help me tighten up the ball stud for the Z bar and I installed the rod that goes from the pedal to the Z bar. I actuated it a couple times and there is very little movement within the linkage as compared to the movement of the pedal. I believe that is due to the design, at least I hope. So if that is indeed the case, there is no issues with fitment.

After some screwing around I got the column installed. The car was originally a manual steering car but I wanted to make it power steering. So I took the manual column, put a 68 power steering shaft in it and tried to install it a couple months ago and nothing lined up. So I installed the manual shaft back in and tried to install it and now it pushed the column mount points to far back! in this process I adjusted the top collars and the coupler. Seeing there was about a 3 inch difference between the shafts and I was about 3 inches to far back with the manual shaft I figured that power steering shaft had to work. Installed the power steering shaft back into the column and BAM! everything finally lined up and is in place I got it loosely bolted in.

With all that the next time Im in the area I plan on making sure everything is tight, fluids are all there and try to bring fire to it to see how the exhaust sounds!

I also got a friend to help me out with rebuilding the center chunk of the rear end. The car came with a 741 case installed with an unknown gear and differential. The information I received indicated the car came new with a 3.23 suregrip, and when I did the wheel turning test I believe it still is a suregrip, but I never tried any further to determine the gear set. Well I found a couple 489 cases laying around so I figured Id use the known suregrip I got at Carlisle a few years ago, put 3.55 gears in it and run the stronger case. unfortunately I didnt grab any pictures during this process, but:

disassembly was fairly simple. The bearing caps and adjusters need to be reinstalled in the same manner, so the caps were marked and the adjusters were kept with their respective sides. the carrier came out after that and the ring gear was removed and tossed (2.76 gear set). The yoke was removed and the pinion gear was hammered out. The bearings were removed from the pinion so the shims could be reused. The sure grip carrier I got was abused to the point that pinion gears it had and its pinion shaft was badly marred. So we took the pinion shaft out of the open carrier and cleaned up the ID of the suregrip carrier pinions and everything went together smoothly. The cones were in really good shape. So the carrier was reassembled and the case tightened back together using the marks we made during disassembly. The ring gear was tight going on, but that was tightened down as well. We ended up reusing the carrier bearings that were on the open carrier, and a cool tool to remove them was used. When it comes to hammering on the pinion and carrier bearings a tip the guy gave me was to cut the old races and use them to hammer on your new bearings. With the shim and the back pinion bearing on we set the bearing preload, installed the yoke, and then placed in the carrier. The back lash was set and we checked the mesh pattern. Surprisingly everything lined up on the first try!! according to him we got lucky. So we removed the carrier, removed the yoke and hammered out the pinion to clean the mesh indicator off the pinion gear. A tip he gave me was never to leave that on the pinion because it would give you a false reading. With that the pinion was reinstalled, crush sleeve installed and the bearing and yoke installed. The bearing preload was set again and the carrier with ring gear was installed with the backlash set. Checked the gear pattern one more time and everything was good! ready to be installed!

So like I mentioned above when I get time again I would like to start the car, make sure it sounds right, and check the clutch and see how the trans shifts. After that the rear end will be removed and the new center chunk would be installed with the rear brakes. When that is done only a master cylinder needs to be installed and the car should be able to be test driven!!! fun stuff!
 
This past weekend I was able to make it back and get a little more work done. I got the coolant in the engine, made sure the spark plugs were in and connected to the right wires, tightened up most of the exhaust, and hooked up the fuel pump to a fuel source and let it Rip!!

and the starter wasnt working... The starter would spin but not engage the flywheel. Needless to say I was pretty pissed and was about to walk away from the whole thing (getting that starter in and out is a major ordeal), when I realized I had that same starter in there and cranking the engine before. So I disconnected the solenoid wire, connected another wire and was still having a similar issue until the starter started to engage the flywheel!! After multiple cranks it started right up!! it sounds nice! I wanted to warm the engine up and make sure it all sounded good and I could shift through the gears. Well I was able to shift through the gears, and let me tell you, it is smoooooooth!

I tried to upload a video, but it does not allow it...

However my run had to be cut short because the carb was PISSING out fuel! It is a remanufactured holley my dad tried running on the polara back when he put the 440 in it around 2005 or so. He claimed it always ran rich and could never get it to run right, so he took it off and installed an AVS and never looked back. He thought it had something to do with the floats. Now seeing how the fuel was coming out of the "hose connection" above the fuel bowl, and seeing when I put my finger over it the fuel shot out of the top of the carb, I am guessing the needle valve is sticking open. Any ideas? If that is the case I hope a rebuild can take care of it and its not something wrong with the casting... only time will tell!

so seeing how there is now a fuel issue I am going to move forward with the rear end stuff and brake stuff. Get that underway because once that is done, its ready to drive. So keep working on the car and researching on how to fix that carb issue.

But its getting closer!!!
 
So it has been a little while since I got around to working on this car. I decided this winter to change the rear end in the convertible to an 8 3/4, but realized that I should also upgrade the front brakes to 10 in since thats what the 8 3/4 has. I figured that since the torsion bars had to be unwound to do so I might as well upgrade the bars to the V8 bars so the front and rear springs kind of work together. Then I thought how I did not like the super stock springs I put in a couple years ago, so I also decided to get new GTS leaf springs. So interesting how a project that just spiraled into what it did. So that means time and money was diverted from the GTS to get that done in time for spring.

but while that was going on I was able to remove the rear end in the GTS, disassemble that and get it painted. Over the last month or so I collected everything I needed to assemble the rear end, brakes and all. Went with the 7/8 bore rear cylinders, Raybestos WC37236. Same cylinders on a 72-77 D100

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While removing the rear end I took noticed to how beefy the rear springs are in comparison to the factory GTS 6 leak ones (the ones in the car had 8). Seeing that the springs needed new bushings and I was removing the mounts to paint it all, figured I would get new springs.

So I have to save up for that! Hopefully next month I can get the rear end installed, the brakes hooked up and the car would basically be ready for a drive!

I just need to devise a bracket that attaches the dip tube to the engine block so it doesnt fall out unintentionally, connect the exhaust, master cylinder, install console, chroming the bumpers, seat foam, tires, install clips and glass, buffing and head liner. With any bit of luck and help from God I should be able to drive it shortly!
 
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I really feel I got lucky on my 67. I had bought a parts car that had unknown aftermarket t-bars, and I took my 67 rear springs apart, along with another set out of another A body. I put the longest leafs out of each pack into one pack until I had one more leaf than original. It just happpened to work out nice height, and stiff.
 
I really feel I got lucky on my 67. I had bought a parts car that had unknown aftermarket t-bars, and I took my 67 rear springs apart, along with another set out of another A body. I put the longest leafs out of each pack into one pack until I had one more leaf than original. It just happpened to work out nice height, and stiff.

interesting... I was planning on just going with springs from ESPO
 
On page 3 now, subscribed. Keep on keeping on, nice job, looks to be a very solid place to start from = OMG the floors an firewall look great.
 
This past weekend I was able to make it home to get some car work done. I ended up going with the ESPO GTS springs with an additional 1 inch lift for the rear (the same spec I put on my convertible about a month ago). They came with rubber bushings but I swapped them out for some urethane ones. The issue I ran into is the bushings are offered two different options: one for a 1/2 bolt and a 1.5" spring eyelet and one for a 5/8 bolt with a 2" spring eyelet. Well the spring people only offered the 1.5" eyelet but I had the 5/8 bolt. So I saw somewhere on here an individual used 1/2 tubing from a hardware store and bored out their bushings to get everything to line up properly. Took it to the machinist at work and he claimed that he wouldnt go with a welded wall tube for this application and recommended .120" wall 4130 tubing. Well McMaster had exactly that so I ordered that and cut it to length. Worked out great!!

Once I finally got all the bushings on the spring hangers I got the springs installed with the rebuilt rear end. I got everything torqued down, brake lines hooked up, and parking brake connected. All it needs is that carb fixed, wheels with decent tires, master cylinder installed with the brakes bled and its ready for being driven!! Unfortunately I am at the point again of being strapped for cash. So slowly trying to save up for these parts so I can can actually start enjoying the thing! But in the mean time I could try and get the glass installed, console brackets installed, interior cleaned out of old parts, interior partially installed to keep the progress moving on the car.

but for the remainder of the time I tried to fix the many leaks on the charger that need addressed: the vacuum leak in the booster, brake leak, coolant leak, and exhaust leak. I swear every system on that car has a leak somewhere. Didnt get it finished but hope to the next time I am back so I can enjoy it a little more without leaving its mark where ever it travels.
 
Unfortunately there has not been much movement on this project... With the car being across the state and not having the funds to get the net big ticket items I havent had much done to it (and this global pandemic thing didnt help matters either). I did fix those leaks on the charger mentioned above (verified the last time I was in) and I was able to do some organizing and put things in the shed so that I could free up the interior to weld in the console brackets. A member here provided the template so I got the interior cleaned out to be able to lay that out.

Given that the fuel was spitting out of the fuel bowl vent the last time I started it up, I removed the carburetor to rebuild it. I also purchased an ultrasonic cleaner to aid in cleaning this and other parts as well. I was also laid off last week so that also puts a damper on the funds for this. I still have some parts around that I can install so hopefully that keeps the progress on this moving.
 
Sometimes it seems like 1 step forward and 2 steps back but you gotta keep steppin.
 
This past week I was able to make some time to get back to the car and get some work done! I got the the rear window trim clips installed and drilled the front for the 68 and up windshield trim clips and got those installed. I was also able to get the console brackets welded in!! pretty happy about that.

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As I am writing this I forgot why I removed the coolant from the engine... but just remembered it was because I needed to fix some leaks from the header bolt on the driver side. So I should be able to get that back in as well.

now back to the progress!!

I tried to button up the brakes but ran into an issue... So I got the master cylinder bled and was all set to install it when I noticed that the push rod that connects the pedal to the master cylinder is WAY to long. I got the adjustable one from Mancini and even at the shortest setting it has the brake pedal extended to the point that the pedal is right up underneath the dash... yea thats not going to work... So I either have to get another one or find an original one...

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But with all that done one step closer to getting it on the road! The other time was spent on getting the interior trim installed on the charger and working on the packard.
 
I was able to spend some time at my folks place to get a little work done on the cars. I got a manual brake master cylinder rod from a member here and it is obvious how much shorter it is than the adjustable rod I got

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It put the brake pedal at around the same height of the clutch pedal so I am happy! I was then able to bleed the brakes. There was only a couple of leaks that were addressed and the bleeding when fairly smoothly.

So now I just need to get the proper driveshaft shortened and decent tires and I could finally take it out for a quick spin! well after the crab is rebuilt... so I guess there are a few other things that need addressed. But the end is near!

This past week was also Chrysler at Carlisle and I only got a few things. I got an interior screw kit for this and a 7290 connection for the rear end. It currently has 7260 U Joints and I would like to go with the 7290's, but that would require a different transmission yoke and drive shaft. Unfortunately I was not able to find a drive shaft at Carlisle I was willing to have cut done. I also wanted to get new tail light bezels but Vans, Herbs, and Mega parts USA were not there.
 
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I got some free time to go ahead and start the rebuild on the carb. Since it wasnt used much on the polara or the GTS it was fairly clean. I was able to figure out why I was having fuel spit out of the fuel vent!!

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There must of been a pin hole in there somewhere because you could hear fuel sloshing around once the float was removed from the container. I did notice that the jets were 61's... where as the book says the jets should be 64's(?). So I think my dad was fighting a running rich situation due to the float be faulty and tried to lean it out by installing small jets. I am going to have to find the original jets or end up getting new ones.

But I used my ultrasonic cleaner with Simple green degreaser. it works great!! I am going to try and use the purple simple green next since I was informed that does not discolor brass and aluminum.

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I spent some time at the folks place last week and got some stuff done on the GTS. I spent way more time researching carburetors than I probably should have, but found some good information on the carb that is going on this car, as well as the carbs on the polara and charger. Apparently the 71 440 carb is jetted differently and has smaller primaries than the 70 440 carb. Who knew?! I was able to locate a 70 440 carb in my dads carb stash, so I removed the one from the charger and will put the 70 carb on next time I am in. Also in that stash was a 69 440 holley that had 65 jets in, so I removed them and put them in the holley that I installed on the GTS (which is a 72 440 carb).

We had a glass guy come out and install the windshield and back glass!! it came out really well! I ended up going with the 68 and above stainless trim around the windshield instead of the 67 trim. I think it turned out nice.

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I also adjusted the windows as well. This is slowly moving along but next time I am in I would like to buff the car and start to install some trim!! other than that the list keeps getting smaller with getting that bracket made for the dip tube, connect the exhaust, chroming the bumpers, seat foam, tires, buffing and head liner, getting a 7290 drive shaft, tail light bezels, fixing the coolant leak at the header bolts, and installing the trim and interior!
 
Still looking for a job, so I have not been able to get the big ticket items to get this thing close to the finish line, but this past week I was able to make it to my parents place and got some work done on the GTS.

I was finally able to make a little bracket to hold the dip stick tube to the engine block. The bracket wasnt too hard to make there just wasnt enough room to get a hand up there to thread a nut onto the bolts. But in the end I got that item checked off the to do list. I was also able to remove the header bolts one by one to add sealant to the threads to hopefully prevent any further coolant leaks.

I wasnt happy with the paint. The last time I buffed it turned out cloudy, so I figured I would try it again. I must say, this color is really going to pop in the sun light!

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It has been awhile since I was able to get some work on the GTS. been focusing on the charger and the packard since funds for this was in limbo. Well I finally got a job so I can get back at it!

This past weekend I was able to install the clutch rod and parking brake cable seals. Added the connector on the turn signal switch and got that connected up. Was able to get the door handles on

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looks pretty damn good! With them on I can now roll the windows up and start working on getting the rest of the interior in! I got new tail light bezels, lenses and housing. Got them installed, got the deck lid trim installed, and got the rear wiring ran.

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Pretty happy with the progress so far. I need to polish the door locks and need to polish the reverse light housings. However I saw that the bulb sockets are rotted through... so I need to see if I can find new sockets for them...

I did get the foam for the seats and hope to have them to the upholsterer this week. Was going to look at tri city plating to get the bumpers chromed. if anyone has another option on bumper chroming, let me know!
 
So a good amount has happened in the past couple weeks. I got a new front bumper from AMD. I got the front and rear seats recovered!!

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They turned out awesome!! The rear bumper is currently out getting chromed. Now is just an issue of getting enough time to install these parts.

This past weekend I was able to make it back to the parents place to get some work done to the cars. I installed the hood to radiator seal, the front hood trim and got the floor plugs installed. I got distracted and decided to work on installing the drive shaft that I just ordered for it... that did not go so well... I was informed that the big block A bodies with the four speed would have the 30 spline output shaft. So thats what I told them to make. Well the slip yoke wont go into the transmission. For what ever reason the transmission has the 26 spline output shaft. I was under the impression it was the original transmission, but I guess it could have been changed at anytime. So now I have to either go with a conversion U joint or find someone who has the 26 spline slip yoke that goes to 7290 large U joint, or someone to make me that slip yoke. So we will see what happens there.
 
So a good amount has happened in the past couple weeks. I got a new front bumper from AMD. I got the front and rear seats recovered!!

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They turned out awesome!! The rear bumper is currently out getting chromed. Now is just an issue of getting enough time to install these parts.

This past weekend I was able to make it back to the parents place to get some work done to the cars. I installed the hood to radiator seal, the front hood trim and got the floor plugs installed. I got distracted and decided to work on installing the drive shaft that I just ordered for it... that did not go so well... I was informed that the big block A bodies with the four speed would have the 30 spline output shaft. So thats what I told them to make. Well the slip yoke wont go into the transmission. For what ever reason the transmission has the 26 spline output shaft. I was under the impression it was the original transmission, but I guess it could have been changed at anytime. So now I have to either go with a conversion U joint or find someone who has the 26 spline slip yoke that goes to 7290 large U joint, or someone to make me that slip yoke. So we will see what happens there.
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Can I ask where you got your seats done ?
Another guy recommended a place in Delmont. I was hoping to find someone closer.
 
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Can I ask where you got your seats done ?
Another guy recommended a place in Delmont. I was hoping to find someone closer.

I got mine done by Bob Kiriks in Allison park. PM if you would like his contact information
 
When I got the grill out for installation the last time I was at my parents place and I notice the grille I wanted to use (the one I got from Carlisle a couple years ago, the bright aluminum was in better shape than the grille that came with the car) didnt have the argent silver painted on the lower part. So seeing that, I decided to polish the aluminum and paint the the argent silver. I used Krylon 1403 Dull Aluminum and it does match the repro headlight doors pretty well. I polished and painted the reverse light housings (that I got from a member here)

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and did the same to the parking light housings:

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I used Rustoleum 7718830 Bright coat chrome. both came out very well! Also got the light bulbs and lenses installed in the parking lights and installed that into the grille so its read for installation the next time I am in!

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Excuse the mess, there is a bunch of winter projects I am trying to finish up before warm weather gets my attention diverted.
 
this past weekend I got a good amount done to the GTS! first on the list was to get the drive shaft in. I got the yoke off of the drive shaft that was in there and used a conversion joint to adapt to the new drive shaft. Went in with no problems. All that needs is more fluid in the rear and that is done.

I got the rear bumper chromed at tri city plating (they did an awesome job) and was able to install that as well! got the reverse lights in and connected
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I saw that the tail pipes are not completely tight, but before I can do that I need to work out things with the gas tank. The strap bolt is contacting the pipe and needs to be addressed. Which hopefully isnt to bad, because the tank currently isnt centered so I should have room to move things around.

I installed a new proportioning valve from inline tube because the one on there just leaks like no one's business. Well the new one leaks just as bad... So I need to find a original one (so far no luck) or open up their valves and see if replacing the seals will do the trick. Hopefully I can get that done before I head home next.

I also got the front bumper and grille on!! damn it looks good to have a completed looking car
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Cant get the best pictures as this thing is up against the short wall of the garage. That is going to change soon. I hope to get this leaking brake thing worked out, get the antenna in so I can get the splash shields and fenders buttoned up. Work out that clearance issue with the fuel tank hold down strap and the exhaust, get fluid in the rear, tires on, carpet in and at least one seat to take it out and see how well this thing works!!! so excited!!!
 
Went home this past weekend and got some stuff done to the GTS. I was able to install the return spring for the parking brake (thank you @John Wymore ) and I got the wiper linkage installed. I ended up drilling into the wiper arm pivots to clean out the old grease and install grease fittings to fill it with new stuff (thank you @RealWing for posting that in your thread!).

I also messed with the leaking proportioning valve. This was a replacement from inline tube that have a reputation for leaking with DOT 5 fluid. Well the only place I could see it leaking from was from the copper washer at the top. I dont see how a copper washer would not be compatible with DOT 5 fluid, but I figured before I make a mess and install another one that may have the same problem see if I could find another copper washer. I found one on McMasterCarrs web site, their 91818A224 cadmium plated one. I did have to file the ID of it to get it to fit over the threads on the top part of the proportioning valve, but I was able to get it installed. I installed it Saturday morning and as of Sunday morning there was no wet spots on the valve and the level in the master cylinder did not go down. So I may have got this issue solved!!
 
Not much time lately to work on the cars but I did manage to check a couple things off my list. I was able to install the antenna, splash shields and completely secure the front fenders. I laid the carpet in the interior but didnt cut it to fit yet. I was ready to install the seat belts until I noticed I did not have a tap large enough to chase the threads for the seat belt bolts, so I need to bring one along next time. So once I got the seat belts in getting the carpet trimmed should be an easier task.

So I need to get the seat(s) in, fix the clearance issue with the exhaust and fuel tank strap bolts, add oil to the diff, put the coolant back in, bleed the brakes, add steering fluid in, bolt in the shifter handle, get the tires installed and this thing would be ready for some shake down cruises!
 
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