73 Duster build named Fred

-
-Boosted-

-Boosted-

Hard Member
FABO Gold Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2023
Messages
2,390
Reaction score
4,013
Location
Arlington, WA
***Edited to be my build thread***

Been looking 6 months for a clean A-Body to do a tribute build for my dad and finally came across one that wasn't a rust bucket or $15K+ so I had to grab it.

This build will be dedicated to my late father. 50 years ago, he brought home a brand new 1973 A-Body Mopar in F7/8 green (the color of my SuperStock). On March 4, I will be starting the tribute build of this 50 year old A-Body Mopar, a 1973 Plymouth Duster which I plan to paint F7/8 green someday. I’ve built quite a few cars, trucks and Jeeps over the years (some of which have been pretty wild) but this one will be my all-time favorite. Here’s to you Dad!

671F0ECB-F78D-4BA3-A4FD-597B0AE8B0DA.jpeg


I have an opportunity to pick up a complete 360 (casted in 79) and 727 transmission for $300. Plan is to do a 408 stroker and performance build on the trans. Think this would be a good start for a street/strip 73 duster?

2nd question.... Who's stroker kit should I go with and why?

24B599ED-2C69-454C-BEA6-400F4D17ACA4.jpeg
 
Last edited:
I wouldn't even think twice about it
I see cores of one or the other going for at least that price, sometimes more. Getting both together is a deal
 
If it were near me i would already own it.... I can find magnums but no LA's near me at all..
 
Thanks guys.... I am on my way to go pick them up.

Now for my next question.... Who's stroker kit should I go with and why?
 
-Boosted- said:
Thanks guys.... I am on my way to go pick them up.

Now for my next question.... Who's stroker kit should I go with and why?
Click to expand...

I am looking at the hughes 426 kit myself.. just don't get anything with a eagle crank is all..
 
-Boosted- said:
Thanks guys.... I am on my way to go pick them up.

Now for my next question.... Who's stroker kit should I go with and why?
Click to expand...
You need to figure out 2 things: 1. What is the real intended purpose of the car when done
2. How much money do you wish to spend
Get a handle on those 2 items and the rest will come together
 
JBurch said:
You need to figure out 2 things: 1. What is the real intended purpose of the car when done
2. How much money do you wish to spend
Get a handle on those 2 items and the rest will come together
Click to expand...
Already figured it out. I am building a real basic purpose built Street/Strip car with a fresh 408 stroker, built 727 with 2600-2800 rpm stall converter, Speedway Motors fabricated 9" rear, Caltracs suspension, minimal interior or exterior work will be done to the car (basically new carpets and seat covers, wet sand exterior and clear coat). Will be on factory 14x6 rallys in front, 15x8 rallys in rear with 275/60R15 MT ET Street R's.

As for how much I want to spend.... like anyone else, as little as possible but I have budget to do all the work listed above. Hopefully I can do everything once and not waste time and money redoing something I should have done differently the first time.... lol

Please fire away with advice, suggestions, tips or anything else. I am all ears and anxious to get started on this thing. :)
 
Yes that's a good deal, SCAT forged rotating assembly. Because they have quality components. 65'
 
I would stay away from cast cranks. Performance goals tend to increase and it is better to have forged to begin with. Molnar/K1/Scat are good choices. Not hating on cast cranks, just gives you more room to grow. I’m bumping into power levels were my cast Scat crank get’s me thinking. If I went forged to begin with, I would be looking at a much cheaper “next big improvement” cost.
 
-Boosted- said:
I have an opportunity to pick up a complete 360 (casted in 79) and 727 transmission for $300. Plan is to do a 408 stroker and performance build on the trans. Think this would be a good start for a street/strip 73 duster?

2nd question.... Who's stroker kit should I go with and why?

View attachment 1716057100
Click to expand...

As stated above I am a Molnar Technologies dealer and just quoted a complete 408" stroker kit out for another member this morning.

If you wish to discuss it further just drop me a PM.

Thanks,
Tom
 
PROSTOCKTOM said:
As stated above I am a Molnar Technologies dealer and just quoted a complete 408" stroker kit out for another member this morning.

If you wish to discuss it further just drop me a PM.

Thanks,
Tom
Click to expand...
Tom, just curious if you do the 426 kits? Although i think i might still just go 390
 
-Boosted- said:
Already figured it out. I am building a real basic purpose built Street/Strip car with a fresh 408 stroker, built 727 with 2600-2800 rpm stall converter, Speedway Motors fabricated 9" rear, Caltracs suspension, minimal interior or exterior work will be done to the car (basically new carpets and seat covers, wet sand exterior and clear coat). Will be on factory 14x6 rallys in front, 15x8 rallys in rear with 275/60R15 MT ET Street R's.

As for how much I want to spend.... like anyone else, as little as possible but I have budget to do all the work listed above. Hopefully I can do everything once and not waste time and money redoing something I should have done differently the first time.... lol

Please fire away with advice, suggestions, tips or anything else. I am all ears and anxious to get started on this thing. :)
Click to expand...


Pleases don’t waste a lot of money on a converter that low in stall. Sounds like some nice planning till you mentioned that.
 
My opinions only, $300 is a good deal for a complete 360/727 but how much of it are you going to use? Stoker means all you’re using is the block. Unless you choke it with stock cast heads and you shouldn’t. But you still get the 727 so there’s that. But, there’s always a but, I wouldn’t put a 727 in a street small block car. I’d use a 904 all day long and twice on Sunday. So from that deal I’d use the block. Is that worth $300?
 
i'm gonna end up paying more than 300 just for a 727 to get the parts to convert mine to 24 spline... grrr
 
pittsburghracer said:
Pleases don’t waste a lot of money on a converter that low in stall. Sounds like some nice planning till you mentioned that.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I am already rethinking stall speed since starting this thread. What would you suggest? Obviously since I haven't picked a camshaft yet, I don't know how to spec the converter but based on what I have seen so far, probably 3800+ is closer to what I should be going with.
 
PROSTOCKTOM said:
As stated above I am a Molnar Technologies dealer and just quoted a complete 408" stroker kit out for another member this morning.

If you wish to discuss it further just drop me a PM.

Thanks,
Tom
Click to expand...
Hi Tom,

I am the "other member" you quoted the complete stroker kit for. :thumbsup:

I'm meeting with my engine builder this today and will get back to you after I had a chance to talk to him. One thing he will be asking for sure is lead time so if you could find out for me, that would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Bill
 
furrystump said:
I would stay away from cast cranks. Performance goals tend to increase and it is better to have forged to begin with. Molnar/K1/Scat are good choices. Not hating on cast cranks, just gives you more room to grow. I’m bumping into power levels were my cast Scat crank get’s me thinking. If I went forged to begin with, I would be looking at a much cheaper “next big improvement” cost.
Click to expand...
Yup, my thoughts exactly. :thumbsup:
 
-Boosted- said:
Yeah, I am already rethinking stall speed since starting this thread. What would you suggest? Obviously since I haven't picked a camshaft yet, I don't know how to spec the converter but based on what I have seen so far, probably 3800+ is closer to what I should be going with.
Click to expand...


Converters are so much different than they were 30 years ago. I know it’s a street car but from day one install a big cooler up from and reroute the lines to avoid your radiator cooler. Like you said hold off for now and plan out your engine combo and try to decide the percentage of track time it’s going to see. 3800 is small in my eyes and after seeing almost .5 in my sons duster going from a 4600 to a 5600 really opened my eyes. Both were good fresh converters.
 
TT5.9mag said:
My opinions only, $300 is a good deal for a complete 360/727 but how much of it are you going to use? Stoker means all you’re using is the block. Unless you choke it with stock cast heads and you shouldn’t. But you still get the 727 so there’s that. But, there’s always a but, I wouldn’t put a 727 in a street small block car. I’d use a 904 all day long and twice on Sunday. So from that deal I’d use the block. Is that worth $300?
Click to expand...
I thought the same as well but decided that I would rather build a 727 and not worry about what I do with the stroker later.

As for the 360 itself, like you said there's not much I will need off of it besides the block but there's that plus all the other things people don't think about until they go to assembly. Timing cover, oil pan, accessory brackets, pulleys and more. Hell, even having all of the bolts might come in handy.

With all that being said, I think the $300 was well spent. In fact the seller even dropped it off to my engine builder (20 miles away) for me so I didn't even get my hands dirty. lol

Bill
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top