Rapid Robert
Well-Known Member
63 dart stock car. 360 SB. what is the best flowing ex manifold to search for? has a thin shaft aftermarket steering column. thank you for your time. RR
Horsepower | |||||||
RPM | 318 | 360 | 340 | SHT | 1 58 | tti | 1 34 |
2500 | 186 | 185 | 187 | 189 | 187 | 189 | 187 |
3000 | 223 | 223 | 225 | 226 | 228 | 228 | 226 |
3500 | 269 | 271 | 272 | 276 | 280 | 281 | 279 |
4000 | 299 | 301 | 306 | 307 | 314 | 318 | 312 |
4500 | 311 | 313 | 315 | 321 | 319 | 326 | 321 |
4600 | 311 | 314 | 315 | 320 | 317 | 327 | 319 |
5000 | 303 | 304 | 308 | 315 | 312 | 316 | 311 |
5400 | 281 | 291 | 289 | 295 | 282 | 296 | 289 |
I dunno that just doesn’t look safe, that motor would have to be chained down because if it shifts up it’s going to push on the steering shaft. Wish there was some better picture cause it looks like it’s resting on the manifold……….Big bucks if you can find one.
A cheaper alternative would be the '92-93 Magnum manifold that has a larger outlet diameter than the later ones, casting numbers 617/618. Even the standard Magnum manifolds don't give much up to the larger bore ones or the 340 manifolds.
They all will take some horsing around to get them to fit an early A (even the 340 manifolds need the column sleeve cut back) but it can be done. Here's a thread on doing it with the Magnum manifolds:
YES 5.9 Magnum manifolds work in early A bodies. Here is exactly how!
And BTW, for anybody reading this in the future; none of these work with power steering.
And send it to Extrude Hone Extrude Hone - Deburring - Polishing - Finishing metal partsI believe if you have a magnum manifold and a die grinder, you could have healthy flowing manifold.
That added zero to 1 hp and cost a shitloadAnd send it to Extrude Hone Extrude Hone - Deburring - Polishing - Finishing metal parts
It is an abrasive material forced through items that smooths the interior of your manifold... places where it is hard to reach
Glad I can help out. I'll keep my thought to myselfThat added zero to 1 hp and cost a shitload
Pass
Don't some mill some off the manifold flange to gain room ? Angle mill it ? Not sure kind of remember people doing/saying that.good info & actually I have one of the early large port magnum manifolds but it slightly touches the top of the steering box to where it will not seat flush to the head ex ports & I have already slotted the box mounting holes so I could lower the box (& a guy posted that this would affect bump steer (dont know what that is, I need to Google it) but handling on the circle track is everything. I could raise the eng a hair but the low profile aircleaner is very close to the hood. I could maybe hammer the center of the hood out a bit where the air cleaner is to gain some clearance then raise the eng (sounds like a good plan). I could lower the k member to lower the whole shebang but that might affect steering even more than lowering the box but that's way too much work. I'm thinking if i can grind the bottom of the manifold & maybe grind a very slight bit off the top of the steering box that that might do it but it feels risky. On a side note I remember a vid from way way back where the guy put some battery acid (iirc) in the manifold & let it sit then dumped/rinsed it & the CC capacity was significantly bumped up. this is where I'm at so far & the racing steering column is a skinny shaft. RR EDIT the magnum mani I have sure looks like an excellent piece but I there is a mani that will fit as is it would sure solve this pressing issue. MORE EDIT I just perused the thread mentioned & professor Fate that is dynamite info, thank you!
I fit an early 340 exhaust manifold on the driver's side by switching to a power steering column and using an adapter (Firm Feel, etc) to hook it to the manual steering box. That put the joint far enough back to clear the manifold.I don’t believe any of those manifolds will fit into an early A body and clear the steering shaft and frame rail on the drivers side. Maybe a post from @Treblig can shed some light on this.