Caltrac Tuning Info LOOK HERE

[Valiant Steve]

Thanks Steve. Cutting the leafs was not in my original line of thought but it makes sense. Looks like I'll need to cut back the 2nd leaf about 5-6 inches on both sides and (I just realized) also the 3rd leaf on the right side a couple of inches. Not something I'm really familiar with. Any tips? Anything that I should be concerned with? I really don't want to lower the height if I can avoid it.

Pretty easy to cut them off take the weight off the spring and drive a wedge in between the first and second springs to spread them apart a bit so you don't cut into the main leaf while cutting the second and third springs back then clamp them after your done I used a metal strap type spring clamp just back from where I cut them off say 2" back you can see the clamp type I used in one of my pics I posted and it will work fine cut both sides if need be it will work great and that drill bit they supply with the Bars drills through the springs like they are made of butter good luck and don't sweat the small stuff your tire spin will be gone. A large screwdriver will work as a wedge, and you can get the straps at any spring shop. Best thing to use to cut the springs is a 4-1/2" angle grinder with a thin metal cut off wheel it's easy to do just take your time and wear your safety glasses sir.

 

[73smallblock]

What would make it feel like almost a wheel hop in the burnout? Caltracs/mono leafs / rear sliders / Calvert's shocks. Preload is set to zero plus 2 flats. I can't recall the shock setting but it's on the stiffer side.

 

[Rat Bastid]

What would make it feel like almost a wheel hop in the burnout? Caltracs/mono leafs / rear sliders / Calvert's shocks. Preload is set to zero plus 2 flats. I can't recall the shock setting but it's on the stiffer side.

If the bars are running up hill it will do that.

As a general rule (against what almost every “expert” says the bar should run down hill. This is for a traction bar, ladder bar or 4 link. Unless you make no power. Then the bar can run up hill. I don’t think I’ve ever seen a case where an up hill bar was a good thing.

As the bar is raised up, you hit the tire harder and quicker but for a much shorter duration.

Lowering the bar hits the tire less hard, slower and for a longer duration.

I have a video I took less than a year ago of a car that is killing the tire because (one reason) his bar is running up hill. It’s a stick car so it’s even more critical. He has no way to control the application of the clutch. That’s bad. He has way too much flywheel weight. That’s bad.

So when you add those things into the up hill bars you just kill the tire.

I‘d post the video but I never told him I was going to take it, nor did I have the chance to show it to him so he could visually see what he was doing to the tire.

I would feel bad showing his car and video on here and critiquing it without him knowing it. That feels underhanded and nasty to me.

If you get enough thins out of whack you can make it so you can’t get enough control with any shock.