Comp cam

-

Daniel Dugas

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2022
Messages
60
Reaction score
20
Location
Darien Center, NY
Alright guys need a little help here. So I have a mechanical flat tappet cam from comp. I’m a little nervous about Running it with all the issues with comp. Am I okay or should I find a different brand? -Thanks

IMG_2871.png


IMG_2870.png
 
Comp has had a lot of issues.
1. They sell a lot more cams than any other grinder so of course they will sound like they have more problems.
2. The other half of the issue is the lifters not ground with enough crown to make them spin in the lifter bores.
3. Do your homework and learn about cam and lifter manufacturing issues. There are a few threads here with links to YouTube videos that get into the problems at depth.
4. Any cam and lifter combo you buy should be carefully checked before it's installed to make sure it's correctly machined and then it should be installed correctly for break in using light valve springs, the proper assembly lube, and the proper motor oil.
 
In my opinion it seems the lifters are the "problem". I have not encountered any issues with Comp products, all were installed 12 years ago tho....
As mentioned theres an abundance of info/myths out there as to what the cause(s) are.
Do your homework.
 
Have an/your automotive machinist check and install the cam. Let it be his responsibility.
 
It was making me crazy as well. I lubed the s*&t out of it and installed it. All the lifters had crowns and rotated when I manually rotated the engine. I'm going to use good break in oil with a good break in procedure. After that, high Zinc oil..........Let the chips fall where they may. Just my 2c.
 
Alright guys need a little help here. So I have a mechanical flat tappet cam from comp. I’m a little nervous about Running it with all the issues with comp. Am I okay or should I find a different brand? -Thanks

No, don’t be worried. Here’s why and what your going to do.

After installing the cam, rotate the cam and check for a smooth rotation. If it is t smooth, fix the problem.

Install each lifter one at a time heavily lubed in the oil you’re going to run. Check for the lifters ease in two motions. Up and down & rotation

Now sit the lifters on the cam and rotate the camshaft around in the proper direction and check the lifters rotation. Everything should move easy and freely.

If it doesn’t, fix the problem.

Follow the rest of the rules of cam installation, lube the cam, I like the Isky cam lube since it is a moly that sticks to the cam, pre lube the engine, etc…..

The only cam failure I ever had was when I skipped the lifter check. It was a Summit cam FWIW. I never had a Comp to flat on me and don’t call it luck! Call it a good constant practice of going through your checks.

IF the camshaft fails break in, it’s ether the cam or lifter that has failed IF you have you have done the proper checks and fixed all the issues and have done all of your pre he is and procedures.

Check your parts! Lifters and cam lobes have tapers!
Make sure they are there! If they are there, the lifters should rotate if the lifter bores are right.
 
Buy the edm lifters, oil holes that cool lifter face.
I've run them on 2 solid flats, I would recommend howards or Hughes over comp also. 100% better camshafts with Chrysler specific ramps
 
I tend to agree with Steve. I believe the lifters are more the problem.
 
Buy the edm lifters, oil holes that cool lifter face.
I've run them on 2 solid flats, I would recommend howards or Hughes over comp also. 100% better camshafts with Chrysler specific ramps
Comp can give you .904 specific lobes if you request them. This is not a problem. Seldom do I see a need to make an attempt and actually take max advantage of the larger diameter.
 
Comp can give you .904 specific lobes if you request them. This is not a problem. Seldom do I see a need to make an attempt and actually take max advantage of the larger diameter.
Yeah I'd rather give my money to someone who thinks Chrysler and not like " oh yeah don't forget Chrysler" lol.
Hughes and howards are what I like and they work very well.
Comp solid rollers different story..
Not to poopoo on the op cam, if he likes it let er rip.
 
Last edited:
Buy the edm lifters, oil holes that cool lifter face.
I've run them on 2 solid flats, I would recommend howards or Hughes over comp also. 100% better camshafts with Chrysler specific ramps
I was actually going to run the Howard’s direct lube lifters with that cam
 
Yeah I'd rather give my money to someone who thinks Chrysler and not like " oh yeah don't forget Chrysler" lol.

Unfortunately, that leaves only places like Hughesengines, AR engineering, FBO @ 4secondsflat.com, TTI & a few others places.

When it comes to camshafts (and other major parts,) Chrysler isn’t the first one to be thought about. The hottest sellers are.
 
Have an/your automotive machinist check and install the cam. Let it be his responsibility.
Machine shops (at least in Denver, CO) know about the flat tappet issue and will not warranty the parts/labor on a wiped out cam.
 
Machine shops (at least in Denver, CO) know about the flat tappet issue and will not warranty the parts/labor on a wiped out cam.
My boss isn't that smart. He still uses comp flat tappet all the time
 
If you have an issue with a flat tappet cam, 99% of the time you will find the cam lobe centered in the lifter bore , the lifter won't [spin to lube] i learned this by building many engines in my shop [71-80's ]
plus many years working in dealers- [chev-chry] .
i solved a lot of issues before they started plus ran 5-30 -5-20 oil, prior to this no heavier than 20 wt.
 
-
Back
Top