Hemi Alternator Wiring

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thedartsport

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Hey all, trying to figure out what I’m doing wrong with my alternator on my Hemi swapped Challenger. I used the old style external regulator and wired my exciter to it and one of the two wires coming from the plug on the alternator. 12 volts when the key is on. Then I wired the output to the battery, but it will not charge while running. Is there something about the new alternators I’m missing? I have a good ground at the regulator. I used the diagram attached in the pictures. Thanks!
 
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Pre-Eagle or Eagle? The 08 older alternators will work. The Eagle alternators won't work that way. They are controlled Waaaay different than the early ones. They are both regulated through the PCM, but, the early ones you can control via the old regulator. Bouchillon has a write up on their site.
 
Pre-Eagle or Eagle? The 08 older alternators will work. The Eagle alternators won't work that way. They are controlled Waaaay different than the early ones. They are both regulated through the PCM, but, the early ones you can control via the old regulator. Bouchillon has a write up on their site.
You are going to have to send a link because I see nothing over there. I was under the impression that the newer Magnum/ hemi alternators were still isolated field just like 70/ later Mopar back in the day
 
ALTERNATOR ONE WIRE 5.7 L/6.1 L 180 AMP - Bouchillon Performance Engineering
I have used and wired the pre-eagle stuff myself. Works just like the old stuff. Tried wiring the Eagle stuff the same way, alternator was at full charge all the time. Like, when you tried to come off idle, the belt would SCREAM! Even idle speed would pick up 300 rpm when unplugging the regulator.
 
Pre-Eagle or Eagle? The 08 older alternators will work. The Eagle alternators won't work that way. They are controlled Waaaay different than the early ones. They are both regulated through the PCM, but, the early ones you can control via the old regulator. Bouchillon has a write up on their site.

Pre Eagle. It’s a 2006. I put a ground to the green field wire and the alternator started charging, so I’m thinking it’s a bad regulator now.
 
Is the regulator FOR SURE grounded? That mount looks a bit rusty.
 
Ended up being a bad voltage regulator out of the box. Tried another one I knew worked, and it’s been charging ever since. Thanks all.
 
Hey all, trying to figure out what I’m doing wrong with my alternator on my Hemi swapped Challenger. I used the old style external regulator and wired my exciter to it and one of the two wires coming from the plug on the alternator. 12 volts when the key is on. Then I wired the output to the battery, but it will not charge while running. Is there something about the new alternators I’m missing? I have a good ground at the regulator. I used the diagram attached in the pictures. Thanks!
This thread is a bit old, but I thought it was worth adding some help for anyone else that comes across it. I am working on my 2nd hemi swap with a 2010 6.1 from a challenger into a sweptline. I am using a Holley Terminator X and tried connecting a standard voltage regulator as in the diagrams, but it did not work and made the alternator overcharge when connected.

I did some research and found that the newer alternators are controlled by a PWM+ signal from the factory computer.
I found an easy solution to allow using an external regulator is to replace the driver in the alternator. Very simple replacement using this part: 4682207MOD - Modified Driver, ECU interface for Denso Alts on 07 & up Dodge, Chrysler, Jeep. Needed for Regulator kits ERCKFRM, ERCK and ERCKE they also have a video explaining the install.

As I have researched this more another possibility may be to use the Terminator X and a solid state relay to convert a PWM- signal from the Terminator X to PWM+.
Holley makes a harness and has instructions to control Ford and GM alternators that use the PWM- signal, https://documents.holley.com/199r12368.pdf but the terminator will not output a PWM+ signal so I am not sure if using a relay to convert the signal would actually work so for my purposes I went with replacing the driver in the alternator which is much cheaper than buying a replacement like this ALTERNATOR ONE WIRE 5.7 L/6.1 L 180 AMP - Bouchillon Performance Engineering

Hope this helps others get their alternator charging when not using the factory computer.
 
Thanks for the info. And at 60 bucks and a little time, waaay cheaper than the Bouchillon alternator.
 
Do you have any more on this? The link you posted is one person, and I can find no evidence in a quick search that these are actually called "a driver" by anyone except the guy selling them. Just what is it that is supposed to be in those "drivers?" What years are affected?
Some alternators off the late Stellantis stuff are nothing more than isolated field, just like the A bodies after 70
 
On a side note I do NOT understand the need for making systems such as this more and more complicated, nor do I understand why the manufacturers feel the need to incorporate such functions as VR into a module which may well cost over a thousand dollars on a fairly new vehicle.
 
This article Gears Magazine - High Output: A Look at Today's Charging Systems gives some helpful info on why the manufacturers have gone to PWM control.
The install of the driver was easy and it works as intended allowing me to control charging with the external regulator. Not sure what years are impacted, but their website shows starting in 2007. The 6.1 I have came from a 2010 Challenger.
 
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Do you have any more on this? The link you posted is one person, and I can find no evidence in a quick search that these are actually called "a driver" by anyone except the guy selling them. Just what is it that is supposed to be in those "drivers?" What years are affected?
Some alternators off the late Stellantis stuff are nothing more than isolated field, just like the A bodies after 70
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