Right before I have to get a new one…..
I’ve got an automatic drain off Amazon but it goes off every hour at its longest setting. Way too often. I’m going to plug it into one of those mechanical timers and do it once a day. That should be enough with the after cooler I have plumbed in between the compressor and tank.On the subject, does anyone use one of those automatic compressor drains? I just wonder how they work.
I used to when buying brand new compressors/tanks, would open it at the top, drop in some solvent slosh it around, drain it out and after a decent amount of dry time follow that with some (pint?) quality paint, and slosh that around and quickly drain, the idea is to give some protection to the bare metal inside where water would constantly collect daily.Once a week at least. Heavy use, turn it off and drain it daily.
I live in Iowa and we have a lot of humidity in the summer. Back when at the Buick dealer, all the tools were not powered and every hoist was a air powered, in ground lift. It took a lot if air. We had a 10 horse 250 gallon. We finally installed an auto air purge and there was still gallons of water that was drained out every day.I used to when buying brand new compressors/tanks, would open it at the top, drop in some solvent slosh it around, drain it out and after a decent amount of dry time follow that with some (pint?) quality paint, and slosh that around and quickly drain, the idea is to give some protection to the bare metal inside where water would constantly collect daily.
I now have an aftercooler right after the compressor, that has a fan on the same circuit that runs with the compressor. Aftercooler next feeds a water trap with an auto drain. Being in Florida I am still amazed how much water still gets into the 80 gal tank,
Exactly what I built and works great.I used to when buying brand new compressors/tanks, would open it at the top, drop in some solvent slosh it around, drain it out and after a decent amount of dry time follow that with some (pint?) quality paint, and slosh that around and quickly drain, the idea is to give some protection to the bare metal inside where water would constantly collect daily.
I now have an aftercooler right after the compressor, that has a fan on the same circuit that runs with the compressor. Aftercooler next feeds a water trap with an auto drain. Being in Florida I am still amazed how much water still gets into the 80 gal tank.
I am not fond of depressuring the air system down to zero at the end of the day every day for no real purpose. It pressure cycles everything just accelerating eventual fatigue failure at the weakest link in the design.
Sure they're caused by rusting out, but remember without oxygen **** can't rust. So if the bottom is fully covered with water it won't rust, it'll rust just above it. If it's wet yet drained, it'll still rust! The only real goal of draining is to keep full capacity of your tank and to try and keep water out of your air tools and paint gun.You guys who dont drain their tank on a regular basis need to go on youtube and watch a few videos. Search for air tank explosion. Most of these are caused by internal corrosion caused from not draining them.
YEP, including every compressor manufacturer that feeds the pump output straight to the tank via a check valve.The proper way is to cool everything, Collect the moisture and then it goes to the tank.
The tank should be where the conditioned air is stored.
That is what everyone is getting wrong.
My setup goes through two tranny coolers with 12volt fans powered off of the 220 motor per leg. ( 120 to 12v converters.) switched by pressure switch. Then after that cooling it goes to this style setup.YEP, including every compressor manufacturer that feeds the pump output straight to the tank via a check valve.
All this does is get rid of water you introduced to your tank. It is only working right after the compressor kicks out.We installed a automatic drain system operated by the pressure release for the head when it shuts off. When ever the compressor kicks off the tank spits out the water. This is one make . There are several you can find much cheaper. They also make them for your water trap.
Does it by itself automatically , No electric, Never worry about water again
View attachment 1716192939
Conrader Auto Drain Valve, 1/4 In. NPT, 500 psi WV-1-KIT | Zoro
Yeah, I kinda pooched it there. Definitely need to get back to it and add more pipe above the valves, I just blow them out more often for the time being. But the temperature drop across the tubes is surprising.I have much longer drops to catch the water than this. Maybe 16 inches.
I am talking about the bottom of the loops with the drain valves. This drop will be where the water collects. It needs to be longer..
I store mine full shut off at the tank.Do you guys store your compressor full or empty?
Your setup looks great, Its almost identical,Yeah, I kinda pooched it there. Definitely need to get back to it and add more pipe above the valves, I just blow them out more often for the time being. But the temperature drop across the tubes is surprising.
I've got another 60 gallon tank that I was planning on putting in-line after the copper, it's on the list as well.I store mine full shut off at the tank.
Your setup looks great, Its almost identical,
If you can go from your pump to your coil you built, then to your tank you will improve alot.
Add more pipe as you say because you will catch ALOT more water.
I do not think you will have to do that.I've got another 60 gallon tank that I was planning on putting in-line after the copper, it's on the list as well.