Finally installing a top in my 1964 Valiant. I fixed up the frame years ago. Using a canvas top kit from Convertible Top Guys. The top came from Kee in Charlotte, NC and the hardware box from M & T Manufacturing in Wakefield, RI. The manual ($30) was more confusing than helpful since my Valiant top varies in many ways. It mostly says, "follow existing top", but my top was only remnants, with perhaps some parts missing. I have the 1964 and 1965 shop manuals (later is for my 65 Dart 2 dr). The 1965 manual adds a section on replacing the top, but not enough details. What I think I figured out, but please check-my-math and correct:
1. There is no "tack strip" or "trim stick" at the rear bottom. Most cars have them (usually 3), including the 1967 A-body in this forum's sticky. The well liner, rear curtain, and main top would be stapled to it, and the sticks would then bolt to the body on the inside of the opening. There are no holes for that in my 1964. Instead you glue both the liner, curtain, and main top (that order) to the top of the rear body lip. The 1963 Fury in this useful video is the same:
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/tips-for-replacing-your-b-body-convertible-top-like-a-pro/
A steel trim retainer (3 parts?) screws down on top of that, shown in above video and post 8. My car didn't have a rear retainer(s), just the chrome trim with screws w/ male posts to secure the boot cover. Is that correct for 1964? The chrome trim doesn't appear to even have lips which would snap onto a retainer.
2. The two center bows do not connect to the top, only to the side pads which are stapled to short tack strips at the ends. The top just rests against felt strips in the main part of the bows. Same in above video. The front bow has little steel wings which bolt to it and extend outward to help support the top and give a curved corner. The 2nd bow transitions to the curved surface of the rear aluminum lift arm. The side cable spring attaches just below that on the side of the arm. Confused me since the kit manual suggested that tops usually attach to most center bows, often via cloth listings glued to the tops and you staple the listings to tack strips in the bow.
3. The rear bow needs a tack strip, but the channel is 0.6" deep. The 1/2" tack strips which came in the kit are only 3/16" thick. In above video, the tack strip stands ~0.1" proud of the rear bow. Closest I see on ebay is 1/2" x 7/8", so if stuck "sideways" would sit 0.275" proud (too tall, plus only 4 ft long and $40). I ordered 6 ft of the same 1/2" tack strip so I can double it up. I've been using E6000 glue, but will use some drops of Gorilla Glue (polyurethane) too. I don't see any holes in the rear bow to secure the tack strip. OE might have been a more sticky rubber material, rather than the shiny plastic sold today. The factory used long staples (3/4"?) which penetrated into the steel channel of the bow. Might be "correct", but I'll stick with 3/8" long stainless staples and hope the glue holds. If ordering a new top kit, best to tell the company what tack strips you need.
4. I agree that the front of the main top's quarter panel section should drop down into the lift channel and just float unsecured. You only start attaching it to the top of the body lip as post 8 shows. Rainwater should just run down thru the body. I'll carefully move the top up and down while starting the attachment to the body to insure no forces which might rip the top.
A 1967 factory bulletin added spring-wire to the rear bow arm corner (clamps under 2 bolts) to push the top out so it doesn't get scissor'ed by the mechanism. Might work, and seems prudent, for early-A's too. A member here recently began selling those wire pushers ($60).
The Malaysian car in post 8 is Syed's. He made several posts years ago. Slant-six w/ RH drive so a remote funky oil filter housing (frees up room for steering box). Aussie slants are likely the same. He had a custom AC bracket made, so knows some clever workers there, though not sure one squatting atop and smoking is ideal.