Jeep 4.0 in 69 Barracuda

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My bad, John. I hate back reading. LMAO
 
JohnFM3 said:
The original steering system was the correct solution. I just couldnt make it safe for the road. Thats why I switched back to the OEM style. HemiDenny worked with me on this for some time before I finally decided to ditch the first setup.
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I’d definitely see what you can figure out with some type of longer pitman and idler arms, then if that’s not a possibility, another (more expensive) option would be to use Denny’s full k-member/suspension instead of the torsion bar eliminator kit. That’d get rid of the steering linkage and put the rack in the front again like you’d originally planned.
 
75slant6 said:
I’d definitely see what you can figure out with some type of longer pitman and idler arms, then if that’s not a possibility, another (more expensive) option would be to use Denny’s full k-member/suspension instead of the torsion bar eliminator kit. That’d get rid of the steering linkage and put the rack in the front again like you’d originally planned.
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I didnt think that it puts it in the front. Or am I mistaking? Or are you talking about the kit which uses the mustang 2 knuckles as well?
 
John what transmission are you going to use?
 
HEY! does the 4.0 have the same bellhousing bolt pattern as a Mopar? why not use a 5.2 bellhousing for your trans?
 
The Jeep came with a BA-5 which is a Pego 5sp. The only reason for it now is I have it, and the to trans tunnel didnt need to be modified. My goal was to go to the AX 15 which would use the same transmission mount as the BA-5 but would require opening up the trans tunnel. They share the same bell housing. Looking over Jeep threads, there maybe an option to use a Dodge bell housing to relocate the starter to the driver side. But if its at the same heigth lining up with the pittman arm this time, then there is no benefit.
 
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puts stater on drivers side...not sure about flywheel diameter matching
 
JohnFM3 said:
The Jeep came with a BA-5 which is a Pego 5sp. The only reason for it now is I have it, and the to trans tunnel didnt need to be modified. My goal was to go to the AX 15 which would use the same transmission mount as the BA-5 but would require opening up the trans tunnel. They share the same bell housing. Looking over Jeep threads, there maybe an option to use a Dodge bell housing to relocate the starter to the driver side. But if its at the same heigth lining up with the pittman arm this time, then there is no benefit.
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got it
 
abdywgn said:
HEY! does the 4.0 have the same bellhousing bolt pattern as a Mopar? why not use a 5.2 bellhousing for your trans?
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Yes it does share the same. As I was just saying, that may be a option. I am looking for comparisions between the 4.0 and the Dodge Dakota V8 (not sure if its the 5.2 or 5.9).
 
JohnFM3 said:
I didnt think that it puts it in the front. Or am I mistaking? Or are you talking about the kit which uses the mustang 2 knuckles as well?
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Yeah, I’ve got the full HDK suspension in my Duster, with the mustang 2 knuckles and the rack is in front of the k-member. Only potential issue is there’s a brace that runs through from the back side of both LCA’s, roughly in the same location as the factory drag link, but Denny may be able to make a custom one that would drop down lower to go under the starter.

*EDIT* oops. Nevermind, the rack is, in fact, behind the k-member, but looks like it’d be farther forward than the factory steering linkage.

IMG_1778.jpeg
 
I am WRONG on the bell housing. The Grand Cherokee with its chrysler V8 shares the same bolt pattern with the starter on the other side than the dodge dakota.

4.0 shares with the AMC 4.2 (258cid). With a loss of the Crank Position Sensor location.
 
75slant6 said:
Yeah, I’ve got the full HDK suspension in my Duster, with the mustang 2 knuckles and the rack is in front of the k-member. Only potential issue is there’s a brace that runs through from the back side of both LCA’s, roughly in the same location as the factory drag link, but Denny may be able to make a custom one that would drop down lower to go under the starter.

*EDIT* oops. Nevermind, the rack is, in fact, behind the k-member, but looks like it’d be farther forward than the factory steering linkage.
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I dont believe the braces you spoke about would be a problem. At least they dont appear to be. I would check again if I go that route.

Does that system use the upper control arms as well? I bought the Upper and Lowers from HDK to work with the Original Knuckles and elminate the torsion bars in favor for coil overs.

If you go back a few pages, you will see pictures when I installed the new kit.
 
JohnFM3 said:
I dont believe the braces you spoke about would be a problem. At least they dont appear to be. I would check again if I go that route.

Does that system use the upper control arms as well? I bought the Upper and Lowers from HDK to work with the Original Knuckles and elminate the torsion bars in favor for coil overs.

If you go back a few pages, you will see pictures when I installed the new kit.
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The full suspension comes with upper control arms. I obviously can’t speak for Denny, but knowing how excellent he is at customer service, he might take your kit back on trade if it hasn’t been painted or coated yet. If it has been, you could probably sell the kit pretty easily here on FABO.
 
75slant6 said:
The full suspension comes with upper control arms. I obviously can’t speak for Denny, but knowing how excellent he is at customer service, he might take your kit back on trade if it hasn’t been painted or coated yet. If it has been, you could probably sell the kit pretty easily here on FABO.
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He has been great. I can not say enough about him. This is nothing new to anyone on this forum.
 
JohnFM3 said:
Yes, that is one of the options which would work with pushing my engine back. That one is about 6.5in from mounting surface to end. Factory is 8in. And i have 5 inch comfortably.
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Is there any room to raise the engine?
 
RustyRatRod said:
Is there any room to raise the engine?
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There is a little room. The bigger issue was the transmission. In order for it to fit the trans tunnel without modification, we had to hard mount the transmission to the cross member to set it low enough to fit.

I have pictures to post of the potential firewall cutting.
 
JohnFM3 said:
There is a little room. The bigger issue was the transmission. In order for it to fit the trans tunnel without modification, we had to hard mount the transmission to the cross member to set it low enough to fit.

I have pictures to post of the potential firewall cutting.
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I guess dropping the engine down is not an option?
 
Ok, looking at what it would take to cut the firewall to set the engine back.

The head is just under 7in wide. Given the engine rotation during hard acceleration, I should probably give myself 8.5 inch opening, with most the space favoring the way the engine would rotate.

If you look at the firewall, you will see that proud spot just to the left of the heater core outlets. The passenger side of my head lines up with that.

20230902_145649.jpg


The driver side of Engine almost lines up with the lower bolt on the wiper motor.
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Most interesting is the intake manifold. I already have 2.5 inches off the firewall. I could cut that little end piece an the rear of the manifold and have more than enough clearance.
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I have never done anything like this before. I dont know if I would even trust my welding for anything other than initial tach.

Can anyone speak to how the heater core fits in the mid section of the firewall?
 
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