Making a car difficult to steal

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it really sucks that we need to worry about this....those are some good ideas though....
 
Put these on the fenders. They are nearly 100% effective.
 

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I personally like the one with the brakes. Can't push or drive away. I'd like to hear more about this kit or how to do that. Mike.
 
Yea my first choice is magnavolt.

I reckon the second (unfortunately magnavolt is not legal yet) is the outstanding post about the fuel cut-off solenoid. Wow, they get it running, pull out on the highway or the road and stall permanently. That attracts attention there.

I always thought about running the key like standard but also having a secondary switch that needed to be actuated as well to unground the coil negative side. That way it just wont run when switch is closed to ground.
 
You can jump one wire from the battery to the coil and jump the starter relay to start it on most of these cars, so ignition cutouts are pretty much pointless.

Fuel cutout are a little better, but don't stop towing.

Locked brakes on all four corners is better but not really feasable to implement. (blead down from premature rubber parts failure would not work out well)
 
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DuhKCiY-lu0&feature=player_embedded"]Armed Homeowner Shoots Robbers During Daytime Invasion (AZ) - YouTube[/ame]

Hurray!
 
Good ideas.

I know that no matter what you do it call always be stolen, the trick is to make it undesirable and encourage them to look for something better to steal.

One of the reasons I like Dusters is, they aren't E-Bodies. They shouldn't be as likely to be stolen, but maybe that is changing. Sounds like 2 A-Bodies in my area recently, makes me nervous.

So, do something to encourage them to go elsewhere (no steering wheel, or something similar), rig up something that disables the car so it wont roll, and add something to it so that if it is stolen anyways you can track the car.

Nothing is going to be perfect, just do the best you can.
 
TrailBeast said:
You can jump one wire from the battery to the coil and jump the starter relay to start it on most of these cars, so ignition cutouts are pretty much pointless.

Fuel cutout are a little better, but don't stop towing.

Locked brakes on all four corners is better but not really feasable to implement. (blead down from premature rubber parts failure would not work out well)
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That's why I suggest grounding the tach/ coil neg wire

You can hide the ground/ switch to the electric pump relay

If you have an electric pump you could install a dual tank valve and plug one port, then rig it so that it has to be powered to allow fuel to flow

These kind are not very expensive

http://www.tomsbroncoparts.com/page...0/09/early-bronco-electric-selector-valve.jpg

and you can buy solenoid fuel shutoffs.
 
Or you could go buy a 12volt security PIN pad and have it control the master disconnect solenoid in the trunk mounted battery box. No 8digit code you get nada.
Andrew
 
rednesss said:
I'm getting something like this

http://www.zoombak.com/
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[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Zoombak-ZMBK346-Advanced-Universal-Locator/dp/B001EJP3CG/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1349237842&sr=1-2&keywords=zoombak"]Amazon.com: Zoombak Zoombak Advanced A-GPS Universal Locator: Electronics[/ame]

Reviews are not good. For the older unit they are worse yet.
 
blue missile said:
Or you could go buy a 12volt security PIN pad and have it control the master disconnect solenoid in the trunk mounted battery box. No 8digit code you get nada.
Andrew
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Neat idea. But it really isn't all that much better than a hidden kill switch. If you find it, you can still bypass it. And if they never start the car (and the professionals aren't starting them most of the time), then it isn't an issue.

Same thing with the steering wheel. Yeah, you need it to drive away. But if you're not driving it, it's not an issue.

A cheapo hidden micro switch will defeat the guys that need to start the car. A back up fuel kill will defeat the smarter guys that still need it to run. And if they don't need to start the car, you probably won't stop them. Think repo-men and tow truck drivers. They don't need the keys, they don't need it to run, and in a lot of cases, they don't even need it to roll.
 
An indentation of where my .45 sits on the dash and a couple of empty shell casting on the dash doesn't hurt/works fine for me so far.
 
A motion detector triggering a sonic ear piercing sound, then reach for the 9mm.
 
67Dart273 said:
You REALLY should take a look at their coverage map, which even in the heavily populated Portland/ Ugene area, has a LOT of "blanks"

http://www.zoombak.com/coverage/
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I did say "something like" I'm not sold on the Zoombak. I'll do my usual in-depth research and read a million reviews before pulling the trigger.

Here's another option.

ricky-bobby-cougar.jpg
 
72bluNblu said:
Neat idea. But it really isn't all that much better than a hidden kill switch. If you find it, you can still bypass it. And if they never start the car (and the professionals aren't starting them most of the time), then it isn't an issue.

Same thing with the steering wheel. Yeah, you need it to drive away. But if you're not driving it, it's not an issue.

A cheapo hidden micro switch will defeat the guys that need to start the car. A back up fuel kill will defeat the smarter guys that still need it to run. And if they don't need to start the car, you probably won't stop them. Think repo-men and tow truck drivers. They don't need the keys, they don't need it to run, and in a lot of cases, they don't even need it to roll.
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I guess the first trick is to make sure no professional would want to steal the car then. :)
 
1970Duster said:
An indentation of where my .45 sits on the dash and a couple of empty shell casting on the dash doesn't hurt/works fine for me so far.
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Haha
I have an empty Uzi 9mm box I used to throw up on the dash opened with the empty casing holder showing.
My truck was never messed with when it was parked out in the woods or the desert.
 
pull coil wire and bring in the house with ya they wont be driving anywhere...lol..thats what indo when intake my car out on thentown keep keys in bring coil wire with me
 
GPS, kill switch, good insurance.

No matter what you do if someone wants your car bad enough they will get it.

GPS and a kill switch will help, but stated value classic car insurance is dirt cheap. Just make sure you have enough coverage to go buy the next one and sleep well at night.
 
MattP said:
GPS, kill switch, good insurance.

No matter what you do if someone wants your car bad enough they will get it.

GPS and a kill switch will help, but stated value classic car insurance is dirt cheap. Just make sure you have enough coverage to go buy the next one and sleep well at night.
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With one exception, you want agreed value not stated, huge difference.
 
Here's something i did in high school as a prank on one of my friend's truck......
I made up a dummy coil wire out of some old spark plug wire ends and a piece of vacuum line about 6'' long. I replaced the original coil wire with this one at lunch time. It looked like the real thing so much that he had fits after school trying to start it. Along comes yours truely about an hour later to help him out. I hooked up my booster cables to his now dead battery to my '71 Dart 4 door, pretended to check out some things under the hood, wiggled some wires here and there and then replaced the coil wire with the original one when he wasn't looking, then i went inside and started it up. I have never seen someone so relieved and mad at the same time since. To this day he doesn't know how i got it going.
This works great if you have black spark plug wires, and would be a great theft deterrent too.
If you are reading this Glen, i'm sorry.
And it wasn't me that jammed a pine cone in your filler neck so it took you over 1/2 hour to fill your truck up.......honestly.
Tom.
 
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