Starting my Early-A Conversion to disc

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chewy

chewy

Some old guy...
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Read a lot on here over the years related to disc brake conversions for my 65. Was told way back in 2002 how todo the conversion on the 62-65 list. Time and money combinations of availability have always been the challenge.

In October, I started to get a front wheel cylinder leak just before surgery, and haven't tore it down yet. But always said, the next wheel cylinder to go, I will make the conversion...

My dart has 10"drums, and I rebuilt the suspension in early 2002 it has about 25k miles on it since then. So ball joints are still tight. Need a boot on the lower, saw it was cracked the last time I was under it.

In 2004, I picked up 66 formulas S parts from the upper control arms to the lower control arms for a good price ($300) from speedway wrecking yard in Erie, CO. Will only use the spindles out of this, but may eventually use the LCAs if I ever put a front sway bar in. The Calipers need pistons. Rebuilt is almost as cheap as rebuilding them. Will turn the rotors and keep around for spares. May do the same for the calipers at some point.

I've been collecting various parts since then, and think I have most everything I need with my Darts Christmas order coming from rock auto.

Raybestos Master Cylinder for a 67 dart.
Inline Tube Lines from to MC to proportioning valve.
Inline tube proportioning valve.
Rebuilt calipers on order from rock auto. ( dart's Christmas present)
Inline tube caliper crossover lines.
New brake hose and retainers.
New brake pads with hardware kit
New rotors.
New bearings, retaining nut and washer and lock.

Anything missing that you see?

I'm planning to install it all before the top down new year's cruise I do on Jan 1st every year.
 
chewy said:
Read a lot on here over the years related to disc brake conversions for my 65. Was told way back in 2002 how todo the conversion on the 62-65 list. Time and money combinations of availability have always been the challenge.

In October, I started to get a front wheel cylinder leak just before surgery, and haven't tore it down yet. But always said, the next wheel cylinder to go, I will make the conversion...

My dart has 10"drums, and I rebuilt the suspension in early 2002 it has about 25k miles on it since then. So ball joints are still tight. Need a boot on the lower, saw it was cracked the last time I was under it.

In 2004, I picked up 66 formulas S parts from the upper control arms to the lower control arms for a good price ($300) from speedway wrecking yard in Erie, CO. Will only use the spindles out of this, but may eventually use the LCAs if I ever put a front sway bar in. The Calipers need pistons. Rebuilt is almost as cheap as rebuilding them. Will turn the rotors and keep around for spares. May do the same for the calipers at some point.

I've been collecting various parts since then, and think I have most everything I need with my Darts Christmas order coming from rock auto.

Raybestos Master Cylinder for a 67 dart.
Inline Tube Lines from to MC to proportioning valve.
Inline tube proportioning valve.
Rebuilt calipers on order from rock auto. ( dart's Christmas present)
Inline tube caliper crossover lines.
New brake hose and retainers.
New brake pads with hardware kit
New rotors.
New bearings, retaining nut and washer and lock.

Anything missing that you see?

I'm planning to install it all before the top down new year's cruise I do on Jan 1st every year.
Click to expand...
Backing plates?

Correct push rod for master cylinder?
 
One big "gotcha" that comes up regularly is a situation of pushrod and whatever master the owner has chosen---does not allow the master piston to fully return. This is VERY important, as the piston MUST uncover the ports drilled in the bottom of the reservoir. The line pressure will not release, otherwise, and the brakes will drag, run hot, or lock up

Make CERTAIN that you take steps to make this so. Mechanical measurements etc.

A popular way is to (carefully as the port(s) can spurt and geysher) take a helper to apply the brakes and release a few times and look for the obvious backflow back up into the master as you look down into it
 
Super-Cuda said:
Some good info in this thread.

Adjustable brake push rod?
Click to expand...
Thanks @Super-Cuda .

I have the 67 manual MC with the same 1" bore size as my 65 manual brakes have. Raybestos MC36221 .

I will call Brewers on Monday and discuss with them if they think I will need to replace my rod with the one they sell. I have one for a 65/66 power brake setup on the shelf from MC change i did in 2014. That I reused the old one from my original on.

67Dart273 said:
One big "gotcha" that comes up regulaly....
..... Make CERTAIN that you take steps to make this so. Mechanical measurements etc.

A popular way is to (carefully as the port(s) can spurt and geysher) take a helper to apply the brakes and release a few times and look for the obvious backflow back up into the master as you look down into it
Click to expand...
Thank you @67Dart273 . I will make sure of this as soon as I get to this point. Will be starting on the work next weekend. When I get to this part of the install i will make sure of this.
 
chewy said:
Read a lot on here over the years related to disc brake conversions for my 65. Was told way back in 2002 how todo the conversion on the 62-65 list. Time and money combinations of availability have always been the challenge.

In October, I started to get a front wheel cylinder leak just before surgery, and haven't tore it down yet. But always said, the next wheel cylinder to go, I will make the conversion...

My dart has 10"drums, and I rebuilt the suspension in early 2002 it has about 25k miles on it since then. So ball joints are still tight. Need a boot on the lower, saw it was cracked the last time I was under it.

In 2004, I picked up 66 formulas S parts from the upper control arms to the lower control arms for a good price ($300) from speedway wrecking yard in Erie, CO. Will only use the spindles out of this, but may eventually use the LCAs if I ever put a front sway bar in. The Calipers need pistons. Rebuilt is almost as cheap as rebuilding them. Will turn the rotors and keep around for spares. May do the same for the calipers at some point.

I've been collecting various parts since then, and think I have most everything I need with my Darts Christmas order coming from rock auto.

Raybestos Master Cylinder for a 67 dart.
Inline Tube Lines from to MC to proportioning valve.
Inline tube proportioning valve.
Rebuilt calipers on order from rock auto. ( dart's Christmas present)
Inline tube caliper crossover lines.
New brake hose and retainers.
New brake pads with hardware kit
New rotors.
New bearings, retaining nut and washer and lock.

Anything missing that you see?

I'm planning to install it all before the top down new year's cruise I do on Jan 1st every year.
Click to expand...
The K/H disk set up use lower balljoints with a 9/16 bolt. Drums will have 1/2. New ball joints or drill/machine for larger bolts.
 
CFD244 said:
The K/H disk set up use lower balljoints with a 9/16 bolt. Drums will have 1/2. New ball joints or drill/machine for larger bolts.
Click to expand...
Thank You @CFD244 !!!

I double checked the bolt head size and they are in fact different. 13/16 on the donors and 3/4 on the car.

Rather than machining the holes larger, I will replace the ball joints with new correct ones for a '66 with KH Disc's. The donors look beefier than what is on the car. Don't want to worry if I weakened it and have a failure.
 
chewy said:
Thank You @CFD244 !!!

I double checked the bolt head size and they are in fact different. 13/16 on the donors and 3/4 on the car.

Rather than machining the holes larger, I will replace the ball joints with new correct ones for a '66 with KH Disc's. The donors look beefier than what is on the car. Don't want to worry if I weakened it and have a failure.
Click to expand...
Don't be surprised if the new ones for the K/H system come with the 1/2 inch holes as well. I bought a set of Proforged supposedly for K/H and had to drill them.
 
CFD244 said:
Don't be surprised if the new ones for the K/H system come with the 1/2 inch holes as well. I bought a set of Proforged supposedly for K/H and had to drill them.
Click to expand...
Ordered the disc brake specific ones from PST will take a few days but in no rush, they had them in stock for less than the local parts stores, rock auto seemed to have none.
 
backing plates for grocery getters
no backing plate for race cars :)

i.e don't worry about the backing plates mine never had any :)
just more weight....
or the self adjusters in the rear drums

standard when they stick on an R/T decal or you put X next to "Track-Pack" option in Australia

Dave
 
Dave999 said:
backing plates for grocery getters
no backing plate for race cars :)

i.e don't worry about the backing plates mine never had any :)
just more weight....
or the self adjusters in the rear drums

standard when they stick on an R/T decal or you put X next to "Track-Pack" option in Australia

Dave
Click to expand...
The car sees the elements at times. Rain, but sometimes snow depending on where we are. So will keep the backing plates. Helps keep spray off of the backside of the rotor.

CFD244 said:
Let us know if the holes are the right size! :thumbsup:
Click to expand...
The PST ones fit right. No havimg to drill them out.
20231218_173213.jpg


20231218_173205.jpg


@PST was quick in getting them here and the site discount makes it a really good deal.
 
Made some progress over the last few days.

Since my surgery on my hand a month and a half ago, I Came to the conclusion that no matter how hard I want to try, I cannot use the brass drift to drive thr races out and drive new ones in. So on Friday I dropped the hubs, rotors, bearings, and studs off at a shop and will pick up the hubs assembled, after christmas.

Cleaned the spindles, straightened the dust shields, trimmed the rusted one, and painted them. The galvanizing was going on the dust sheilds so the got the same paint.
20231223_174002.jpg

Looking at the calipers from rock auto, I may paint them red or iron as well.
20231223_184408.jpg


The new stainless crossover lines don't line up we'll to the lower hole.. Trying to figure that out.

The rebuilt ones showed none in the pic on rock autos site, but one side had a crossover. Similar to what is on the old calipers, but different from the inline tube ones.
 
A bit coaxing and stretching on the bends and the stainless line fits perfectly.
20231223_191549.jpg


Will remove the lines for paint tomorrow and then install the other side.
 
By Saturday afternoon, I had the mechanical part of the conversion done.
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20231230_151045.jpg

Wish I had another of the old style disc pad hardware.

At some point will find one and have both sides. Nothing wrong with the newer hardware. To me they just look cleaner.
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20240102_162809.jpg


Starting on the running the lines this week.
20240102_162115.jpg
 
Just did a disc brake conversion on the front of my 65 Valliant.can I ask are you using the metering valve or just the proportioning valve?
Ted.
 
vallianted said:
Just did a disc brake conversion on the front of my 65 Valliant.can I ask are you using the metering valve or just the proportioning valve?
Ted.
Click to expand...
I am just using inline tube"s BLK243 dual conversion proportioning valve for 65-66 mopars.
20240106_132927.jpg
 
Finished this up last weekend. Completed replacing all of the lines with stainless lines from inline tube.
20240224_184809.jpg


20240224_143602.jpg

Bled the brakes last weekend and test drove. No leaks, way more pedal than the single master ever thought of having.
20240309_095859.jpg


20240309_095906.jpg

Taking her out tomorrow for the Sunday get together.
20240309_095852.jpg
 
MidnightSwinger said:
Can you help me with the line routing? Which line goes in the side?

View attachment 1716221943
Click to expand...
MidnightSwinger said:
Can you help me with the line routing? Which line goes in the side?

View attachment 1716221943
Click to expand...

The one you have attached for the passenger side, I slid the bending spring down to the fitting and bent it between 60° and 90° to go in thru the side, it the noutes to the firewall and back up to go around the engime. The short driver side line out the front, because I didn't think it would reach with a added bend to it.
Screenshot_20240315_140325_DuckDuckGo.jpg


Hard to get a good pic with the torque shaft in the way.
20240315_140843.jpg


20240315_140950.jpg

It clears the Y pipe by about 1-1/2". So I left the spring lower to help with heat dissipation
 
chewy said:
The one you have attached for the passenger side, I slid the bending spring down to the fitting and bent it between 60° and 90° to go in thru the side, it the noutes to the firewall and back up to go around the engime. The short driver side line out the front, because I didn't think it would reach with a added bend to it.
View attachment 1716221945

Hard to get a good pic with the torque shaft in the way.
View attachment 1716221946

View attachment 1716221947
It clears the Y pipe by about 1-1/2". So I left the spring lower to help with heat dissipation
Click to expand...
Thank you very much, that’s help a bunch.
 
Which line from the new tandem master goes to the rear brakes? Or does it matter?
 
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