TTI mounts

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68dartuk

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Hi guys, spot of trouble in the UK, I’ve recently got a few parts together to install a 6.4 into my 68 Dart. I needed a new K frame so got the later one with spool type mounts, i also got the TTI mounting kit that’s where my problems are now because the Mopar oil filter adapter doesn’t fit with these mounts (unless I’m seriously missing something) what’s naffed me off is that TTI doesn’t say anything about this. I kind of know I’m going to need a remote filter set up but what have you guys done, before I spend any more money that’s not needed. Thanks John

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Unfortunately, they do say something about it:

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Just not in the instructions.

Not sure what others have done but I don't see a way around it without moving the motor forward like the Holley mounts do. Sorry.
 
Thanks for that, just checked on Mancini where I bought them from and they don't say anything, but they do show a plate as well as some pictures that don't really correspond with the actual mounts.Looks like I'll be getting another order together.
 
TTi site indicates Blocking plate with remote feed

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Thanks for that, just checked on Mancini where I bought them from and they don't say anything, but they do show a plate as well as some pictures that don't really correspond with the actual mounts.Looks like I'll be getting another order together.

If you were a welder/fabricator, you could cut the mount loose from the k-frame and move it back and then cut the TTI mount apart and shift everything to match. The Holley mounts move the motor forward 1.75" so moving the mount back the same amount would be an idea. But a ton of work to do, not sure the motor mount can move that much.

Even then, the Holley setup recommends a $150 90 degree adapter. So it's not like it is a free fix.
 
I'm going to put the motor in tomorrow and see what it looks like,see if altering the mount is feasible.
 
Supposedly the QA1 tubular k-member and gen3 mounts are a direct bolt in with no modification needed. Just another suggestion.
 
Supposedly the QA1 tubular k-member and gen3 mounts are a direct bolt in with no modification needed. Just another suggestion.

Do you mean QA1 has mounts?

Far as I know, the QA1 k-frame does nothing to fix the oil filter issues with either the TTI nor the Schumacher mounts as the pad is in the stock location. But the PS mount on the QA1 k-frame is easier to move and the TTI mount is easily modified to make it work. It's not a bolt in though.

 
QA1 has the gen3 hemi mounts for there k-member. I believe the mount saddle is located in a different spot so the mount doesn’t interfere with the filter location. There mounts are QA1 specific
 
QA1 has the gen3 hemi mounts for there k-member. I believe the mount saddle is located in a different spot so the mount doesn’t interfere with the filter location. There mounts are QA1 specific

Never heard of that. And it must be a G3 specific k-frame because it is the location of the mount on the k-frame that causes the issue. I'd like to hear more, any links?
 
If you were a welder/fabricator, you could cut the mount loose from the k-frame and move it back and then cut the TTI mount apart and shift everything to match. The Holley mounts move the motor forward 1.75" so moving the mount back the same amount would be an idea. But a ton of work to do, not sure the motor mount can move that much.

Even then, the Holley setup recommends a $150 90 degree adapter. So it's not like it is a free fix.
I member on here sent me some picture of how he did this when I was having fitment issues.
 
Unfortunately I don’t have links. I called QA1 and talked to one of there technicians, Ryan I believe was his name. That was the information he gave me but he could not answer my question about the difference in distance from left to right mount saddle
 
Got the engine in today, I’ve decided not to start cutting and moving things around, I’m going to go with the blanking plate and remote filter i just wish I had gone to the TTI website first.

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Nice! Sure looks good in there.

I am guessing you have to remove the SRV solenoid off the back of the intake? Plans there?
I did yes,there's no gearbox on at the moment so I'm hoping that when I level it up that it will fit, fingers crossed.
 
I did yes,there's no gearbox on at the moment so I'm hoping that when I level it up that it will fit, fingers crossed.

Hate to say it, but not likely. I've seen people move the motor forward like 1/2" or 5/8" to get stuff like that to fit, and I've seen them notch the firewall, but I don't think I've ever seen one that fit without something like that.

FYI, there is a block off plate available. Locks it into the long runner mode, I think. Maybe MMX?

Personally, I would lock it into short runner mode. In a light car, a little less low end torque probably won't matter but it is probably worth 30 HP up top where it would be better used.
 
Hate to say it, but not likely. I've seen people move the motor forward like 1/2" or 5/8" to get stuff like that to fit, and I've seen them notch the firewall, but I don't think I've ever seen one that fit without something like that.

FYI, there is a block off plate available. Locks it into the long runner mode, I think. Maybe MMX?

Personally, I would lock it into short runner mode. In a light car, a little less low end torque probably won't matter but it is probably worth 30 HP up top where it would be better used.
thanks for the heads up , I'll put that on the ever increasing list
 
thanks for the heads up , I'll put that on the ever increasing list
Hi i am in same boat as you from over seas so need to make sure parts are right as not easy to return. Have you had to modify the fire wall at all. I have read the 90 degree oil filter relocator only sometimes works so better to just relocate and makes servicing easier anyway. What sump did you go with?
 
I would think it would be easier and cheaper to do the remote oil filter. I bought a remote setup from the local parts store like $20.00 and have had it on my car for 14 years and over 100k miles. 5.7 in 67 Barracuda. I don’t see the point in cutting and welding something that costs more and takes more time.
 
Not sure if a factory K would lend itself to a similar mod... I'm thinking probably not.
Easy peasy though if you have a QA1 A-Body K-member and don't want a remote oil filter.

I relocated the mount rearward on the K, then cut and welded the TTi mount to match.
Biscuit style TTi mounts not the spool style. Full size oil filter with plenty of clearance and access.
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Before mod pics on the left, after mod pics on the right.
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Cut off the passenger side mount, relocated and welded it back on.
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From this
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To this
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Not sure if a factory K would lend itself to a similar mod... I'm thinking probably not.
Easy peasy though if you have a QA1 A-Body K-member and don't want a remote oil filter.

I relocated the mount rearward on the K, then cut and welded the TTi mount to match.
Biscuit style TTi mounts not the spool style. Full size oil filter with plenty of clearance and access.
View attachment 1716191166

Before mod pics on the left, after mod pics on the right.
View attachment 1716191175
Cut off the passenger side mount, relocated and welded it back on.
View attachment 1716191176

From this
View attachment 1716191178

To this
View attachment 1716191180

Wicked cool fix. I try and tell everyone I can about your solution, with proper credit for who did the work.

I’ve looked at the stock k-frame and don’t think it would be hard to duplicate this. Even better if you start with a slant six biscuit mount k-frame. Not sure the oil filter ends up with as much vertical room though.
 
Hi i am in same boat as you from over seas so need to make sure parts are right as not easy to return. Have you had to modify the fire wall at all. I have read the 90 degree oil filter relocator only sometimes works so better to just relocate and makes servicing easier anyway. What sump did you go with?
Hi,I think that I will have to modify the firewall slightly mainly because i don't want start blanking anything off on the engine, i want it to run as it should do, i will be getting a remote filter set up and have used a Holley sump.
 
Hi,I think that I will have to modify the firewall slightly mainly because i don't want start blanking anything off on the engine, i want it to run as it should do, i will be getting a remote filter set up and have used a Holley sump.
O so the holley sump worked with the tti mounts? Thought pitman arm hits it or something seen in one thread however maybe he made his own mounts
 
O so the holley sump worked with the tti mounts? Thought pitman arm hits it or something seen in one thread however maybe he made his own mounts

The issue is the idler hits the pan when a ‘72 or older center link is used. ‘73+ works fine.
 
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