Vintage Alignment Systems

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WV64Signet

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I post this with the complete understanding that replicating a modern, digital system with a vintage or ad-hoc method is not realistic. Challenge has been finding a local shop willing to even attempt an alignment on the 64

I've gone through the string alignment process and that was a good rough baseline

Found an Alemite Cross Sight Wheel Alignment system online for a couple hundred bucks.

Anyone played around with those or the Atlas version?

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They used to have small Caster/Camber magnetic gauges that stuck on the front bearing hub when you remove the dust cap.

If you had the roller plates below the front tires then you could run the wheels through the left and right turn swings to get your Caster reading.

Then you can set the toe in with a tape measure or your favorite home made sliding tubing toe in tool.

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I agree with George. Especially now that you can buy individual and accurate digital and lazer levels and angle gauges, which can be used, or used to check and calibrate a hub type gauge, the big cumbersome "machines" that have to be muscled into place are just not worth the trouble.

Your big issue is a level place to work. I have none, so the rare times that I need 'a rack' I just block up and level my car trailer!!!

You need some sort of turning plates, Google that, many ways to come up with those

You need a gauge that gives you accurate TILT at the spindles or accurately mounted to the wheels. A dedicated 'caster camber' gauge is not necessary, because TILT in angle gives you camber, and caster IS FIGURED from that by turning the wheels

You need a way to measure toe. This is greatly eased if you can scare up 1 more person to hold the end of the tape. You need a scribe to mark a "plane" on the tires or on tape on the tires.

If you are trying to check frame/ thrust angle/ front / rear axle alignment, you can "rig" lasers or strings as needed.

I bought a toe gauge off ebay that turned out to be trucks. Hard to tell it was that large in the photos. I cut it down, added a cross bar, and we are in business

"Ever since the Romans" (or maybe the Chinese or before them) NOTHING is more accurate for plumb or level than a pan of water and a plumb bob

This might give you some ideas. It is generally way overblown, but shows a toe gauge and tire scribe, etc

https://robrobinette.com/S2000Alignment.htm
 
Many You Tube videos on how to use the bubble gauges as above.
I have been using mine for 50 years.They do the job just like the wis-bang computer/digital $$$$$$$ machines.
That Alemite set is down right cool ! What ever you get it for the turn tables are worth it.
Would be nice if the owner knows how to use it.Maybe he has a book to go with it.That would make it priceless.
 
My ancient Ammco caster camber gauge. As I said you do not NEED a specialized caster camber gauge, only one accurate to show tilt

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My cut down toe gage and (I was lucky) scored some Ammco turning plates. You can make these simply

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If you gathered up all this "junk" in your arms it would probably weigh 100 lbs. Heaviest are the turning plates. You can pick the toe gauge and caster/ camber gauges up in one in each hand. The turning plates are heavier and cumbersome
 
I have the same style Trammel bar for the toe settings. Scribe too.
 
Many You Tube videos on how to use the bubble gauges as above.
I have been using mine for 50 years.They do the job just like the wis-bang computer/digital $$$$$$$ machines.
That Alemite set is down right cool ! What ever you get it for the turn tables are worth it.
Would be nice if the owner knows how to use it.Maybe he has a book to go with it.That would make it priceless.

It was his grandfathers.

Maybe he has a book to go with it.That would make it priceless.
There is a book...unclear on how complete it is.

What ever you get it for the turn tables are worth it.
Agree. It is missing the dial lens on one side but I'm thinking the turn plates would cover the cost and just for giggles I might be able to reproduce the lens
 
After two failed alignment jobs at shops, I tried my hand at doing it.
One thing I learned was that every time I jacked the car up to put it on the turn plates, it screwed up the adjustment.
I made low ramps for front, and rear tires. I got toe plates from Summit, and a Longacre alignment kit. The biggest challenge was keeping the digital level in a repeatable position. While it was work, it was worth it.
 
After two failed alignment jobs at shops, I tried my hand at doing it.
One thing I learned was that every time I jacked the car up to put it on the turn plates, it screwed up the adjustment.
I made low ramps for front, and rear tires. I got toe plates from Summit, and a Longacre alignment kit. The biggest challenge was keeping the digital level in a repeatable position. While it was work, it was worth it.

I have a Longacre digital kit on order. Speedway hosed me....came up as "Arriving Friday"... well, I emailed them on Thursday since it didn't show as being shipped and I was curious how it was going to arrive in less than 24 hours. Truth then came out..."Oh, we're having technical issues so your order SHOULD ship on Monday".

Well, that crushed my plan for the weekend :mad:
 
That's the one I use

Careful. The instructions are sorta hard to follow. It gets confusing when you zero out the caster measurement. You have to relearn it every time you use it.

I think a regular analog Longacre bubble gauge with caster might be easier to set up and actually quicker.

I got the computer one because I thought I could get a dual use from the angle gauge for other house projects. .... been 7+ years and never have used it for anything else.:rolleyes:

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We went to the moon with computers that had less computing power than your phone.

And alot if not all the parts were designed with pencil and paper


You would think we could align a car without any sophisticated computer gadgets.

They did it that way for 60 70 100 years and the cars ran fine!
 
I am always on the lookout for a good used Hunter A111.
 
Quality. I'm old school and mine is the Longacre bubble type.
furyus2 made a good point that is is best to drive onto the turn tables.Easy to make a wood ramp.
Once on and the turn table pins are removed,joust the front end to settle the suspension before taking any readings.
 
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This is the system... The bullseye lens on the far side is missing but I have a closeup shot that I think would allow me to reproduce it from plexiglass
 
That was a good deal.... Anything you find now is marginal quality for around $150 and new for about $200 +

it was a circle track guy getting rid of extra stuff.

Also, with the rim clamp adapter, we really needed bungee cords to tie it down good. The weight of the gauge and you needing to press button would make it come off. Also, just since your doing adjustments and work, you tend to bump it

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Picked up the set this morning. It's cool. The instruction manual is interesting and there is only one piece missing which is a brake lock bar

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I have a Snap-on "drive on" rack, that levels using air bags. Snap-on turn plates, Hunter caster/camber/toe gauges. Problem is I don't have a place where I can set it up.
 
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