The low to intermediate circuits of your carb are calibrated to work at a prescribed inlet air temperature.
In your air-filter housing are a temp sensor, a mixing valve, and two large hoses; 1) the cold air duct going to in front of the core support, and 2) the other to a scoop on the exhaust manifold.
That system is designed to mix hot air from off the manifold with cold air coming in thru the cold-air pipe, to the create the specified temperature..
Can you defeat the system?
Yes but, yur gonna have to recalibrate the main metering system.
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If you defeat the system, without re-calibration:
The carb will run lean when the ambient temp is below the set point, and rich when ambient is above the specified set-point. But usually not enough to hurt the engine.
>Around town, you may never notice a difference, because the system drops out of operation when the manifold vacuum drops, due to a large throttle opening.
>But on the hiway at a steady throttle opening, fuel economy will suffer, unless the ambient is at or near the set-point.
I forget the setpoint just now (I'm getting older) but I imagine it would be, at some logical and easy to maintain temp like maybe 100*F; I'm guessing.
the most noticeable sign of lean-running is
> a tip-in sag, aka a hesitation, from a dead-stop.
> lousy gas-mileage, due to the throttle having to be opened further than necessary to get the fuel, to get enough power, to attain cruising speed.
Other signs could be;
> overheated sparkplugs
> burned exhaust valves
>possible coolant overheating
> possible pre-ignition, leading to detonation, sometimes ending in broken sparkplug insulators.
> an overheated exhaust manifold leading to cracking.
