Tubing the gallery with a twist

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j par said:
You guys know I don't know much, (if anything?!) But when ken (oregon cam) re-ground my cam he sold me barrel lifters? What's that?
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You mean dumbbell lifters? /6 lifters?

If your lift is low enough you can use them. I almost did, but in my block the groove in the lifter would have been about .055 or .060 from the bottom of the bore and I didn't want to take a chance that the lifter could catch the bottom of the lifter bore.

I was going to use them to save weight, but when I weighed them the Dumbbells were only a gram or two lighter than a regular lifter.
 
RAMM said:
Where are you getting the bushings and what's the cost? J.Rob
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Can't remember, J.Rob. I was there when they were looking through the book. I know for a fact they are NOT the 60 buck a piece ones. I also think he ordered big block ones, so he could keep the top of the bushing to to top of the factory "chamfer" that shouldn't even be there.

Will update with numbers and pictures after I pick it up. Had to run out there today again, he forgot to tell me to bring him bearing caps yesterday.......I meant to ask what brand bushing but forgot. You get there and see all this stuff and forget half the things you want to ask. Today they were installing some valve springs with 1205 pounds open, at 1.006 lift! Looked like little suspension coil springs...wish he'd hire me as a broom guy or something. Some amazing stuff to look at.

Update to come...
 
In terms of solid roller lifters and as I understand them a "barrel" lifter is a full body - no oiling groove cut into them. A dumbbell lifter has a reduced diameter mid section where the oil groove would be. It makes them a lot lighter. I can't post pics from this laptop but that's how I understand it. From what I've dealt with all conversion hydraulic rollers are full body with various groove sizes and placement in order to try and control oil loss. Solid rollers run the gambit of both those designs but tend more to be full body.
 
yellow rose said:
You mean dumbbell lifters? /6 lifters?
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idk?? Never heard the term "dumbbell lifters"? /6?
/6 lifters to save weight? 8 grams ×8? in the valve train! cool! I'll take it...
Here's what I do know about the cam it's a Oregon cam grinders solid lift cam number 175 and I use Hughes 1.6:1 rockers
 
j par said:
idk?? Never heard the term "dumbbell lifters"? /6?
/6 lifters to save weight? 8 grams ×8? in the valve train! cool! I'll take it...
Here's what I do know about the cam it's a Oregon cam grinders solid lift cam number 175 and I use Hughes 1.6:1 rockers
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This is a dumbell lifter and as you can see this one weighs in @ exactly 100 grams. IMO they are a shat design. The other lifter is a lightweight Schubeck weighing sub 70grams which is light. Apples n oranges. J.Rob

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I don't know, I'll have to call ken and ask. I thought he said "barrel" lifters ? I thought it had something to do with the under ground cam? I pictured them being a little smaller in diameter at the ends like a barrel? ( it wasn't explained that way but that's the way I had it in my head) It was a couple years ago now so I may have heard him wrong or something. It could have had to do with the application and I was under the impression that they were a little more expensive. I pulled the heads and the Push rods out but I'll be damned if I've ever pulled the lifter out. and I think it's the only part that haven't had in my bare hands, those lifters...
good Lord I need to make clear that they're not roller lifters they're solid lifters. I'm sure that makes the whole difference. I'll be damned if I don't get into that motor next time and pull one out and look at it.
 
j par said:
I don't know, I'll have to call ken and ask. I thought he said "barrel" lifters ? I thought it had something to do with the under ground cam? I pictured them being a little smaller in diameter at the ends like a barrel? ( it wasn't explained that way but that's the way I had it in my head) It was a couple years ago now so I may have heard him wrong or something. It could have had to do with the application and I was under the impression that they were a little more expensive. I pulled the heads and the Push rods out but I'll be damned if I've ever pulled the lifter out. and I think it's the only part that haven't had in my bare hands, those lifters...
good Lord I need to make clear that they're not roller lifters they're solid lifters. I'm sure that makes the whole difference. I'll be damned if I don't get into that motor next time and pull one out and look at it.
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Well, ****, now you need to go out and tear that bugger apart so you know. Or call Kenny. He just stands around and bullshits all day. He's good at it too.
 
Mopar performance solid lifters are about the lightest non composite lifter on the market, or were. I run solid rollers with a shallow oil band and feed holes to the rollers, I also run full groove mains and my clearances are around .0021-.0024 range , a 'c hair' tighter on no.1 main. My oil psi never dips below 28psi at idle FWIW. I buzz it into the mid high 6000's rpm on average, no tube...no mods.
 
Ok. Picked up my block today and FINALLY I am all set to go. Bushings look great. They're made by Trend. He drilled a little .040 hole in each to make sure my pressure fed rollers get oil. Honed them to fit MY lifters.
Now with all my nice minimum clearances I should have great pressure and plenty of oil to rods and mains. I did all the 1/2 inch drilling in the pump, rear main cap, and back of the block a long time ago.

I spent a few hours re-cleaning the block out, like 3 times. I'm really anal about it. Last thing was bag it and hose down the floor for assembly tomorrow.

So, the factory did ok on the drivers side, but he said number 4, 6, and 8 were pretty far off. Not enough that he felt it would affect power too much, but longevity for sure. His words. He emphasized longevity.

I sure don't want to jinx myself but this sure feels like the best block I've ever had. Everything friggin perfect. I hope to be on his dyno in 2 weeks. Still need to pick up a damper and figure out if I'm going to use the tried and true HP950 or go bigger.

Oh yeah. Have to port my Super Victor, too. Thought about switching to an Indy 360 intake, but can't even find a picture of one..?... Here's a few pics.
20170120_183250.jpg
20170120_183203.jpg
20170120_183152.jpg
 
Ironmike said:
Ok. Picked up my block today and FINALLY I am all set to go. Bushings look great. They're made by Trend. He drilled a little .040 hole in each to make sure my pressure fed rollers get oil. Honed them to fit MY lifters.
Now with all my nice minimum clearances I should have great pressure and plenty of oil to rods and mains. I did all the 1/2 inch drilling in the pump, rear main cap, and back of the block a long time ago.

I spent a few hours re-cleaning the block out, like 3 times. I'm really anal about it. Last thing was bag it and hose down the floor for assembly tomorrow.

So, the factory did ok on the drivers side, but he said number 4, 6, and 8 were pretty far off. Not enough that he felt it would affect power too much, but longevity for sure. His words. He emphasized longevity.

I sure don't want to jinx myself but this sure feels like the best block I've ever had. Everything friggin perfect. I hope to be on his dyno in 2 weeks. Still need to pick up a damper and figure out if I'm going to use the tried and true HP950 or go bigger.

Oh yeah. Have to port my Super Victor, too. Thought about switching to an Indy 360 intake, but can't even find a picture of one..?... Here's a few pics.View attachment 1715009803 View attachment 1715009804 View attachment 1715009805
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All aside I love seeing modified factory castings. Looks good.
 
yellow rose said:
So do you have the Dumbbells or no? Like I said, they are heavy.

And, I have no idea why Chrysler used them in the /6's.
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They also used them in the early Hemi where they had solid lifters.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
All aside I love seeing modified factory castings. Looks good.
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Thank ya sir. Wish I could say I had something to do with it other than paying. Well I did spend a while de-burring and the usual.

Those machinists just amaze me. Wish I appreciated those guys so much when I was younger.
 
Ironmike said:
Ok. Picked up my block today and FINALLY I am all set to go. Bushings look great. They're made by Trend. He drilled a little .040 hole in each to make sure my pressure fed rollers get oil. Honed them to fit MY lifters.
Now with all my nice minimum clearances I should have great pressure and plenty of oil to rods and mains. I did all the 1/2 inch drilling in the pump, rear main cap, and back of the block a long time ago.

I spent a few hours re-cleaning the block out, like 3 times. I'm really anal about it. Last thing was bag it and hose down the floor for assembly tomorrow.

So, the factory did ok on the drivers side, but he said number 4, 6, and 8 were pretty far off. Not enough that he felt it would affect power too much, but longevity for sure. His words. He emphasized longevity.

I sure don't want to jinx myself but this sure feels like the best block I've ever had. Everything friggin perfect. I hope to be on his dyno in 2 weeks. Still need to pick up a damper and figure out if I'm going to use the tried and true HP950 or go bigger.

Oh yeah. Have to port my Super Victor, too. Thought about switching to an Indy 360 intake, but can't even find a picture of one..?... Here's a few pics.View attachment 1715009803 View attachment 1715009804 View attachment 1715009805
Click to expand...
sure looks perdy ! so, what does that job normally cost flat out ?? (I like them being a bit taller too.)
 
That motor sat in a cellar since 1980. Never turned it over, probably never even thought about it... nothing. Pure neglect.
Have no clue what a bushing job normally cost....I think 4-500 bucks. I got a pretty big price break.
 
Looks like they did a good job too. Nice lookin block.
 
yellow rose said:
Use the biggest carb you can fit.

A dominator would be best.
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Yeah. Thought about that. With a Super Victor and 950HP, I have just barely enough room to close my hood. Love to try a 2 circuit 950 Dominator, but can't fit an adaptor plate so what intake choices are there?
I'm very "hood challenged", but not locked into any intake really. The one in the pic is staying on that motor.
20170122_013426.jpg
 
RustyRatRod said:
Looks like they did a good job too. Nice lookin block.
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Thanks, Rusty. I'm happy with it. I'm really trying hard......
Crank and girdle (I know!) in today. Tomorrow hope to knock in slugs and slide in the cam.
Ah yeah....Glad to see I'm not the only one burning some midnite oil.
 
Ironmike said:
Yeah. Thought about that. With a Super Victor and 950HP, I have just barely enough room to close my hood. Love to try a 2 circuit 950 Dominator, but can't fit an adaptor plate so what intake choices are there?
I'm very "hood challenged", but not locked into any intake really. The one in the pic is staying on that motor.View attachment 1715010197
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If you don't mind paying the money, there are plenty of people who will make that intake take a dominator with out an adapter. I've never done one, but I'll probably try it on my W-2 engine if I can find one more intake manifold.

I'm also sitting on 2 1050 dominators and would make you a smoking deal on one of them. 12 hole booster, 3 circuit, billet blocks and base plate and fuel chute bowls. Not sure I'd use it as a 3 circuit but some guys make them work.
 
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