360 LA New Build

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IRISH RT

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Looking at a Stroker Build 340, or 360, The 340 is 55thou Over so would need sleeving, The 360 are at 40thou, not confident in the sleeving process, Also unsure of which stroker components to use , Do II buy a whole kit or mix and match ????, At the moment I thinking about Cranks either Molonar or Scat, It will be Street Strip looking at mid to low 11s, Have got eddy heads Moroso Waterpump, running 727 Manual 3500 stall 3.9 rear Truetrac Car Weighs 3300 with me in it ,Wheels with MTs 26x10.5x15


Your Thought and advise most welcome
 
IRISH RT said:
Looking at a Stroker Build 340, or 360, The 340 is 55thou Over so would need sleeving, The 360 are at 40thou, not confident in the sleeving process, Also unsure of which stroker components to use , Do II buy a whole kit or mix and match ????, At the moment I thinking about Cranks either Molonar or Scat, It will be Street Strip looking at mid to low 11s, Have got eddy heads Moroso Waterpump, running 727 Manual 3500 stall 3.9 rear Truetrac Car Weighs 3300 with me in it ,Wheels with MTs 26x10.5x15


Your Thought and advise most welcome
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Why sleeve the 340? You can hone it .005 and it will still only be .060 and if .005 kills it it should have been dead at .055 over. You don't think .005 will clean it up?
 
My current 408 stroker build. Go with the 360. Just my 2 cents on the topic. I went with a Scat kit.

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273 said:
I get that if he had to buy a 340 but he seems to have both why not use the biggest bore yes it may only a gain of 7-8 cid.

Like Yellow Rose said just bore it .005"
Or if you want to be really sure sonic check both and see what's best.
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Want To Use The 340 but block srtength is a worry
 
IRISH RT said:
Want To Use The 340 but block srtength is a worry
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Well the 360 is .040" won't it need to be bore too ? So both will be .060".

Have them both sonic checked and go from there or find stock bore 340/360
 
273 said:
Well the 360 is .040" won't it need to be bore too ? So both will be .060".

Have them both sonic checked and go from there or find stock bore 340/360
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Chances of Finding a stock 340 or 360 Here in NZ is next to zero, Good Point you make Thanx
 
My friend had a sleeved 340 in an 11 second Cuda . It let go , wiped the crank and 2 rods, scuffed a piston . sleeves are ok for street but not for serious efforts IMO
 
383Scampman said:
My friend had a sleeved 340 in an 11 second Cuda . It let go , wiped the crank and 2 rods, scuffed a piston . sleeves are ok for street but not for serious efforts IMO
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Every aluminum block has 8 sleeves. I have set hundreds of sleeves. Never a failure. Would you throw away a block that you have thousands invested in over a sleeve?

From the OP it seemed like he had a 340 that was .055 over. Another .005 won't kill it. Unless it won't clean up with .005. Maybe then he can sonic test it and go 4.105 or 4.110 if he can find rings.
 
I just said this on another thread and I don't mean to be repeating myself but the same advice applies here. I found that buying a kit is much cheaper then trying to Cobble together all the peace. And also I didn't find it necessary to go forged at any rate because I've had no problems with my 11 second car, that has a cast crank, I-beam rods and forged pistons are sufficient. I think my kit from Jegs was like $1,400 Us. that included bearings rings crank rods and pistons. But I'm of course with everyone else if you can get that 340 Going that would be more bang for your buck and here in the states much harder to find than the common 360 that I used. The only thing that I found was it more expensive to do at 318 because they're not so common to stroke and the Pistons or a little more expensive or were at the time. I think just take both the blocks to the Machine Shop and if the 340 will work do it if not go with the 360. My 2 cents.
 
j par said:
I just said this on another thread and I don't mean to be repeating myself but the same advice applies here. I found that buying a kit is much cheaper then trying to Cobble together all the peace. And also I didn't find it necessary to go forged at any rate because I've had no problems with my 11 second car, that has a cast crank, I-beam rods and forged pistons are sufficient. I think my kit from Jegs was like $1,400 Us. that included bearings rings crank rods and pistons. But I'm of course with everyone else if you can get that 340 Going that would be more bang for your buck and here in the states much harder to find than the common 360 that I used. The only thing that I found was it more expensive to do at 318 because they're not so common to stroke and the Pistons or a little more expensive or were at the time. I think just take both the blocks to the Machine Shop and if the 340 will work do it if not go with the 360. My 2 cents.
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You Could be correct Maybe the forged Crank is not needed , xtra money could be spent in other areas Like some oiling mods , I know there are no guarentee in racing engines But wnt something that will live for a while like 10.000 or 20.000 miles , would like to hear about some of your builds
 
yellow rose said:
Every aluminum block has 8 sleeves. I have set hundreds of sleeves. Never a failure. Would you throw away a block that you have thousands invested in over a sleeve?

From the OP it seemed like he had a 340 that was .055 over. Another .005 won't kill it. Unless it won't clean up with .005. Maybe then he can sonic test it and go 4.105 or 4.110 if he can find rings.
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Can It Be The process or type of sleeve that may make them fail?
 
IRISH RT said:
Can It Be The process or type of sleeve that may make them fail?
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Sure. Anything can be screwed up. But as a machining process, installing a sleeve is about as simple as it can get. Most sleeves are better material than the block itself.

I have sleeved entire V-8's, inline 4 and 6's and can't count how many blocks I've saved that needed a sleeve and someone else would have junked it. One comes to mind. It was an FE ford that had cross bolted mains. I forget what it was, but it was a hard block to get. Several machine shops said it was junk because it had thrown a rod and the damn thing knocked a hole in the bore the size of a golf ball. The odd thing was the rod went right out the core plug hole and there was zero other damage. I ordered a thick wall sleeve and saved that from an early death.

Done correctly you'd be hard pressed to even notice it's been sleeved.
 
Running NASCAR in the 1970's we ran 340 T/A blocks. All eight holes were sleeved right off. The engines made more horsepower with all eight cylinders sleeved than they did before being sleeved. Never a sleeve failure.
 
yellow rose said:
Sure. Anything can be screwed up. But as a machining process, installing a sleeve is about as simple as it can get. I agree that sleeving theory is simple.


Done correctly you'd be hard pressed to even notice it's been sleeved. Done correctly this is absolutely true.
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Like said in the quote-Sleeving is a simple repair in theory but I don't find it's all that easy to execute in practice. I find it pretty stressful as there are a ton of things to take into consideration. Things like step height at the bottom, final bore diameter for proper interference fit, sleeve material and thickness, is the cutter going to cut over/under or right on target on that final pass, does this repair warrant using Loctite sleeve retainer, can I get the deck perfect without the need for resurfacing? I almost always pull it off but I don't find it all that "simple" to execute. Sleeve a Subaru and machine the wrist pin access hole correctly and get back to me. That being said haven't seen an outright failure with a sleeve repair job and that includes other shops' work. J.Rob
 
Would it make sense to you in your situation to start with a Magnum 5.9 block? It would provide more options down the road, and I have heardit is possible with some boneyard motors to just put in stock bore pistons, the bores are that good in the nnewer blocks. Supposedly there is a kb piston that is close enough to stock balance wieght,,,,,,,
 
RAMM said:
Like said in the quote-Sleeving is a simple repair in theory but I don't find it's all that easy to execute in practice. I find it pretty stressful as there are a ton of things to take into consideration. Things like step height at the bottom, final bore diameter for proper interference fit, sleeve material and thickness, is the cutter going to cut over/under or right on target on that final pass, does this repair warrant using Loctite sleeve retainer, can I get the deck perfect without the need for resurfacing? I almost always pull it off but I don't find it all that "simple" to execute. Sleeve a Subaru and machine the wrist pin access hole correctly and get back to me. That being said haven't seen an outright failure with a sleeve repair job and that includes other shops' work. J.Rob
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100% correct. And then if there is big damage in the bore, like a hole, you are dealing with an interrupted cut, and if the cylinder wall is thin (relatively) the bore goes out of round at the hole. Yup, lots of stuff to go wrong.

I will say I've never done a subaru. Sound like its a cat of a different feather for sure.
 
gregsdart said:
Would it make sense to you in your situation to start with a Magnum 5.9 block? It would provide more options down the road, and I have heardit is possible with some boneyard motors to just put in stock bore pistons, the bores are that good in the nnewer blocks. Supposedly there is a kb piston that is close enough to stock balance wieght,,,,,,,
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I Will Stick with The LA Block And My Edelbrock Heads
 
IRISH RT said:
I Will Stick with The LA Block And My Edelbrock Heads
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Oops, forgot about the head oiling issue. Magnum motors used are a dime a dozen where I live, a good option for me, I am starting with no parts at all for my project.
 
Found a Build a very interesting thread about 340 started by MOPER I think but cannot find it now
 
Anyone Know What 412 Means on ROSS 340 Pistons , Looking at another 340 block But he measured with a measuring tape says its 104mm bore 104 would be stock wouldnt it???
 
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