adriver
Blazing Apostle
Quick and dirty prints uploaded. I think they are right.
Give me you best guesses.
I may have a charging problem still.
I don't like the charging load on my ammeter.
Will work on that this weekend.
But the car runs fine now.
So my original wiring smoked. The car died and when I went to crank it the smoke came out.
The "blue" under the hood wiring was fried in the bundle. (The "run" circuit).
I had the electric choke wires tied in to the run circuit and that wire was gone.
The heat melted some other wires in the firewall bundle.
Strangely enough the fuse-able link checked good with a meter but looked hot.
I've got garbage cans full of used harnesses and I've cobbled together new wiring trying to keep the "important" wires close to the original colors with upgrades.
View attachment 1715044370
I got new power and run pulled in and by passed the problem bulkhead connections with the "important" wires.
(2 "Power" and 1 run.)
View attachment 1715044371
I put in a new ignition switch a few weeks ago for no particular reason.
Just figured it was time. The original was.....old.
And since I was doing this anyway, I hard wired the new ignition switch in.
That eliminated one more bad connection under the dash.
The car side plastic was broken anyway.
ALL CONNECTIONS are crimped AND soldered.
New fuse-able link with ring terminals.
Before making it all neat, I wanted to test run it.
It wouldn't start and when I did get it running the timing was off the scale retarded.
Guessing 20 degrees retarded from TDC at idle.
Ran it back with a timing light to 10 degrees advanced at idle and now it is fine.
I drive this car everyday long distance for 15 years without touching the timing.
What would do this?????
Better voltage???
Boxes have never made a difference in timing like this.
So it has to be something with the new wiring.
Right?
This car requires very little maintenance.
I'm running out of good junk yard 4 pin boxes so I'm going backwards to 5 pin boxes which I have more of.
(We know the new boxes are rubbish.)
Prints to follow in next post.
Give me you best guesses.
I may have a charging problem still.
I don't like the charging load on my ammeter.
Will work on that this weekend.
But the car runs fine now.
So my original wiring smoked. The car died and when I went to crank it the smoke came out.
The "blue" under the hood wiring was fried in the bundle. (The "run" circuit).
I had the electric choke wires tied in to the run circuit and that wire was gone.
The heat melted some other wires in the firewall bundle.
Strangely enough the fuse-able link checked good with a meter but looked hot.
I've got garbage cans full of used harnesses and I've cobbled together new wiring trying to keep the "important" wires close to the original colors with upgrades.
View attachment 1715044370
I got new power and run pulled in and by passed the problem bulkhead connections with the "important" wires.
(2 "Power" and 1 run.)
View attachment 1715044371
I put in a new ignition switch a few weeks ago for no particular reason.
Just figured it was time. The original was.....old.
And since I was doing this anyway, I hard wired the new ignition switch in.
That eliminated one more bad connection under the dash.
The car side plastic was broken anyway.
ALL CONNECTIONS are crimped AND soldered.
New fuse-able link with ring terminals.
Before making it all neat, I wanted to test run it.
It wouldn't start and when I did get it running the timing was off the scale retarded.
Guessing 20 degrees retarded from TDC at idle.
Ran it back with a timing light to 10 degrees advanced at idle and now it is fine.
I drive this car everyday long distance for 15 years without touching the timing.
What would do this?????
Better voltage???
Boxes have never made a difference in timing like this.
So it has to be something with the new wiring.
Right?
This car requires very little maintenance.
I'm running out of good junk yard 4 pin boxes so I'm going backwards to 5 pin boxes which I have more of.
(We know the new boxes are rubbish.)
Prints to follow in next post.
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