Action Plus vs ......... any gains?

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318willrun

318willrun

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I have a Weiand Action Plus intake on the car, and I was wondering if anyone switched to a Stealth or RPM and gained performance on a highway geared, stock motor with stock exhaust manifolds? Carb is a 770 Street Avenger.

Just for the record, the car is a '76 Duster, 360 auto (stock converter), 2.45 gears. It ran 14.14 at 97 mph.
 
Mopar Small-Block Intake Manifold Flow Test

I'd say thats a pretty good running duster with that gear and stock trans, and stock long block. The intake you mentioned is very similar to the old LD340 intake manifold, which is the King of SB intakes, next to the Eldebrock RPM these days. I remember reading that the RPM design basically matches the performance of the LD340.
 
Did the intake you have....have 318 ports or 360 ports? Read the comment about the Action+ on the link.
 
chrispy1971gtx said:
Mopar Small-Block Intake Manifold Flow Test

I'd say thats a pretty good running duster with that gear and stock trans, and stock long block. The intake you mentioned is very similar to the old LD340 intake manifold, which is the King of SB intakes, next to the Eldebrock RPM these days. I remember reading that the RPM design basically matches the performance of the LD340.
Click to expand...
yeah, I thought about opening up the ports like the article states. Mine has bigger than 318, but maybe a little smaller than the 360 size. I don't really buy into the idea of the stealth intake being "off idle to 6800 rpms" or whatever. Something will give, and I bet it's the off idle. My 60 ft. was 2.04, and I don't want to loose any off of that. I know if I added headers and better gears, the car might appreciate the RPM. I'm curious in it's current state if the intake swap would help?
 
IMO, I don't thin you'll see a big if any improvement. With 2.45 gears, the car has a lot to over come. I don't think an intake swap will net you a noticeable improvement, because you have not "maxed out" the intake you have. Start adding headers, better gears and a looser converter and then you will see some gains. All this is just speculation of course.
 
RustyRatRod said:
IMO, I don't thin you'll see a big if any improvement. With 2.45 gears, the car has a lot to over come. I don't think an intake swap will net you a noticeable improvement, because you have not "maxed out" the intake you have. Start adding headers, better gears and a looser converter and then you will see some gains. All this is just speculation of course.
Click to expand...
Thanks, and I think you may be right. I'm just questioning the port size of my intake... I'm trying to think of what "minor" changes I can do (or part I could collect) to drop it into the 13's, without doing the usual that we all know.... headers, gears, converter, blah blah blah......
Here is an example: The car went 14.29 @ 95 with 600 eddy. I went to the 770 holley and it went 14.14 at 97. If I can do another simple swap like that, maybe I could push 13.9's ??
 
318willrun said:
Thanks, and I think you may be right. I'm just questioning the port size of my intake... I'm trying to think of what "minor" changes I can do (or part I could collect) to drop it into the 13's, without doing the usual that we all know.... headers, gears, converter, blah blah blah......
Here is an example: The car went 14.29 @ 95 with 600 eddy. I went to the 770 holley and it went 14.14 at 97. If I can do another simple swap like that, maybe I could push 13.9's ??
Click to expand...

What was your reaction time grandpa?
 
I'd be interested to see also. Synthetic lubes all around, or better trans fluid? X-pipe? Tire size/brand? Supertune distributor? Like an FBO system or similar? Adjust suspension?

I read a few years back on some pure stock drag cars. A guy had a fresh 69-396 nova. Was running consistent low 14's. Switch to synthetics, and he broke high 13's. 4spd car.
 
chrispy1971gtx said:
I'd be interested to see also. Synthetic lubes all around, or better trans fluid? X-pipe? Tire size/brand? Supertune distributor? Like an FBO system or similar? Adjust suspension?

I read a few years back on some pure stock drag cars. A guy had a fresh 69-396 nova. Was running consistent low 14's. Switch to synthetics, and he broke high 13's. 4spd car.
Click to expand...
The list of stuff you posted is the exact thing I'm looking into. I know my front end is out of whack, as I rebuilt on side. I haven't got to the other side yet. I'm sure a good alignment might net me a little something? X pipe or H pipe in my case, that would be interesting?? My tires are 235/60R15's in back. It has rallyes all the way around. I thought maybe a set of aluminum rims may net me a 40 lb loss, and it's unsuspended weight? Although I like the rallyes.
 
If you don't have one, you may grab a mopar suspension book. I'm not a racer, but have always wanted to find the right car to do some stuff with down the track. Unfortunately, they tore down the track here in Kansas City, thanks to a bunch of complainers.
 
RustyRatRod said:
That's probably enough of a difference to get you into the 13s I bet. Where is your initial timing?
Click to expand...
the tuning your talk'n about may get me into the 13's. Perhaps. There may be something left in the tune, but I'm a tweaker :D I believe it's at 16* initial, and 36* full. I've tried adding and pulling out, but this is where it ran the best. Probably some jetting games to be played with the carb.
  • My 318 Duster is at 20* and 40*, that's where it ran the best. My rule is I ALWAYS let the car decide where it wants to be timed. I never say 20* and 35* and walk away.
 
318willrun said:
the tuning your talk'n about may get me into the 13's. Perhaps. There may be something left in the tune, but I'm a tweaker :D I believe it's at 16* initial, and 36* full. I've tried adding and pulling out, but this is where it ran the best. Probably some jetting games to be played with the carb.
  • My 318 Duster is at 20* and 40*, that's where it ran the best. My rule is I ALWAYS let the car decide where it wants to be timed. I never say 20* and 35* and walk away.
Click to expand...

Yeah cause it picked up with the bigger carburetor.....might be more in it with making it more rich. It might want more. In a race situation, they usually do.
 
318willrun said:
The list of stuff you posted is the exact thing I'm looking into. I know my front end is out of whack, as I rebuilt on side. I haven't got to the other side yet. I'm sure a good alignment might net me a little something? X pipe or H pipe in my case, that would be interesting?? My tires are 235/60R15's in back. It has rallyes all the way around. I thought maybe a set of aluminum rims may net me a 40 lb loss, and it's unsuspended weight? Although I like the rallyes.
Click to expand...

Some lighter wheels and shorter tires (225 50 15) would change your effective ratio to approx. 2.7. Rally wheels are about 23 lbs, aluminum
15X7 maybe 19lbs. Not cheap new wheels and tires unless you sell or
swap? This would also lower car 3/4 inch (better handling)
 
66jim said:
Some lighter wheels and shorter tires (225 50 15) would change your effective ratio to approx. 2.7. Rally wheels are about 23 lbs, aluminum
15X7 maybe 19lbs. Not cheap new wheels and tires unless you sell or
swap? This would also lower car 3/4 inch (better handling)
Click to expand...
good thoughts. thanks. My 15x7 rear Rally's are heavy, I bought them through Summit. The fronts are normal 14".
 
I"ve got a question about the flow test from link. Appears to me that the test bench was flowing air in the opposite direction from a running engine. Wouldn't that have a significant effect on air flow? considering the shape of plenums and port dividers?
 
You can increase your mph and lower your et by increasing your rollout. Get a 15" front wheel and a larger diameter tire. Run the max air pressure on the sidewall. Stage very, very shallow. On the rear with a street tire run as much air pressure as you can and still hook. If you have drum brakes back the adjusters off a hair.
 
A little late but I don't think you're going to see a difference on a stock setup.
Unless you have 3.23 gears or higher.
And or with a stall convertor.
In a perfect world bigger rear tires.
 
318willrun, back in the day I was trying to do something similar with my 4 speed big block 361. I had changed out the Carter AFB and stock intake to a Carter AVS on an aluminum DP4B and ran better times. Before I made anymore changes, my buddies had me use a slick on my 2.74 one legger. I think I dropped .2 of my time which was closer to my mph through the traps.
Try a slick. Quick and easy.

PS. After using the slick I decided to go whole hog and completely rebuilt the engine with performance as the goal (pistons, cam, lifters, windage tray, accel distributor, headers, and performance clutch).
 
DFX 340 Duster said:
318willrun, back in the day I was trying to do something similar with my 4 speed big block 361. I had changed out the Carter AFB and stock intake to a Carter AVS on an aluminum DP4B and ran better times. Before I made anymore changes, my buddies had me use a slick on my 2.74 one legger. I think I dropped .2 of my time which was closer to my mph through the traps.
Try a slick. Quick and easy.

PS. After using the slick I decided to go whole hog and completely rebuilt the engine with performance as the goal (pistons, cam, lifters, windage tray, accel distributor, headers, and performance clutch).
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply. I have no wheel spin at the track, so I doubt a slick would help. I want to run it in street form anyways, and I may need a DOT drag radial in the future, but right now I leave full throttle and no spin.
 
JFLN said:
You can increase your mph and lower your et by increasing your rollout. Get a 15" front wheel and a larger diameter tire. Run the max air pressure on the sidewall. Stage very, very shallow. On the rear with a street tire run as much air pressure as you can and still hook. If you have drum brakes back the adjusters off a hair.
Click to expand...
I'm running 32 psi in the rear and it's hooking thanks to the ever-so-unpopular 30 dollar traction bars :D . I just trip the stage light about as shallow as I can. I have the front tires at 35, and I could go more but when I get to the strip (I drive 1 hour to get there) I do nothing to prep the car. All I do is allow a 20 minute cool down period, and then I turn the key and stage it. A true, 100% in street form car.
 
Flow on intakes is pretty much worthless when selecting something to run right.

Plenty of times the higher flowing intake makes less power because of the combo. IMO, most SB mopars, especially under 400hp really do better with a dual plane intake.

The SB small port, big port is the worst red herring BS sprung on the Mopar world EVER!!! You would be surprised regarding the port windows on some of the preferred/suggested intakes around here. :)
 
crackedback said:
Flow on intakes is pretty much worthless when selecting something to run right.

Plenty of times the higher flowing intake makes less power because of the combo. IMO, most SB mopars, especially under 400hp really do better with a dual plane intake.

The SB small port, big port is the worst red herring BS sprung on the Mopar world EVER!!! You would be surprised regarding the port windows on some of the preferred/suggested intakes around here. :)
Click to expand...
So, your vote is the Action Plus is as good as any right now? I fully understand as the need of the engine rises, the need for a better intake also rises, but in it's current state you think a stealth or RPM would do anything in my favor???
 
318willrun said:
So, your vote is the Action Plus is as good as any right now? I fully understand as the need of the engine rises, the need for a better intake also rises, but in it's current state you think a stealth or RPM would do anything in my favor???
Click to expand...
I would get the lighter wheels , way before I`d try an x pipe. Bet u wouldn`t gain .003 w/ the x , and only could tell w/ a-b-a tests on the same day. 2:94 gear is about as far from performance as u can get too.
 
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