I lower my top 1/2 way unzip the plastic window,lay it in the well and then push out the sections between the bows so they don't pinch anywhere (it's in my 66 FSM to do it that way also) but I've done it that way for over 30 years on all the plastic window convertibles I've owned and never ruined a top yet. Glass window tops don't usually need to be unzipped but the sections in between the bows do need pushed out till they get a memory of how that store, then I just lower them and watch to make sure they fold correctly. pushing out the material helps it fold lower so the boot goes on a bit easier too!are you supposed to try to get the top material away/out of the hinges when lowering it? any tips on how you lower your top and avoid issues/damage to top please let me know . thanks
ahh the "didn't stretch the top enough scenario" or they put a 24.5 rear bow height top on the 26" bow height frame and couldn't stretch it enough to hide the slit.Oooh, that's bad. As you know, the top has to go down far enough to engage the plastic hooks on each side. Having material between the bows makes that very difficult. First time I tried driving with the top down after I got the car running, I didn't know better. I drove around the corner and the top started to go up by itself. Went home, looked at it a little closer, refolded, latched it into the hooks, and I was good. Once the top goes down in the spring, it's mostly down until fall. Oh, with the boot over it. Mine has a vertical cut on each side that had another patch of material on the inside that's supposed to cover it. Looks factory to me. Like it's some kind of strain relief. Shrugs. I saw the same thing on a b-body this summer.
I drove my car 350 miles through a steady down pour the whole way from the slant six drag race in KY in September and the top seemed to have shrunk a bit from the soaking.
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ahh the "didn't stretch the top enough scenario" or they put a 24.5 rear bow height top on the 26" bow height frame and couldn't stretch it enough to hide the slit.
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that slit on the bottom is supposed to be in the well area and hidden. if it's not in there and has been screw to the trim closer to the front of the car this happens.
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Ah, ok. Slit should be deeper in the well.
But mine IS the factory top because it is date stamped on the inside. With month, day, 1964 and manufacturer name.
This car is better built compared to my 1968 and 69 cudas. Hard to believe they'd intentionally do this at the factory. But thanks for the possible explanation.
Any idea where the 24.5 or 26" bow height is measured from?
I've done a couple that way. I just undid the latched to release pressure removed the trim, the side sails panels and removed the rear window at the trim line blocked the rear bow into correct position so I kept correct bow height . I then folded everything Up and covered it well. sanded the dutchmans panel (which was bad on both convertibles I had to do) and painted car, reverse to install (do not unstaple from rear bow or it's almost impossible to redo). try to put the trim on without making new holes in rear window the you have a much better chance of lining the sail panels up so there are no wrinkles.Is it possible to strip a vehicle for paint and re-use the convertible top you took off?