Sorry for jumping in here ,I have the same problem .Temp gauge works but the fuel gauge stays at half full.Great info.ThanksYou should be able to reach the posts with guage in place. If you try to pull the cluster you have to discount the ammeter wires and stand a greater chance of damaging something.
That your temp guage is working shows that your IVR (instrument voltage regulator) is functioning so that is probably not the issue
all the time key in or not? Or only reads empty to 1/2 full? what have you replaced lately?Temp gauge works but the fuel gauge stays at half full.Great info.Thanks
All the time. I bought the car knowing the fuel gauge didn't work and it read empty.I put gas in it and the gauge went to 1/2 and never moved since.Someone ran a wire from the sending unit were you plug in the gauge wire to the frame ,not sure why.i removed it .all the time key in or not? Or only reads empty to 1/2 full? what have you replaced lately?
Yes im going to install a new sending unit .Start there anywaysStuck float or stuck needle on the gage.
Okay thanks so much for your hep appreciate itIf you take the wire to the tank sending unit and disconnect it with the key on and gage drops to empty, then take the same wire and jump it directly to a chassis ground and gage goes to full, then you can rule out the gage being an issue.
The temp gage seems to work okay,but I will test it anywayYou can do the same thing with the temperature gage. Unplug sender with key on, it should go to cold. Jump the sender wire directly to ground it should peg all the way hot. That rules out a temp gage being a problem. Using this method with both fuel and temp gages also tests the sending unit wires from the gage to the sender for opens or ground shorts to rule those issues out as well.