If you dont tighten everything in the correct sequence and with all the weight on it you will end up with a stiff ride.
how about a Link and thanks
Wait what? If that is true; then of course by your push-down test, it will be stiff, as the suspension has almost no where to go, and the T-bars have very little preload on them..... so basically the bumpstops are bouncing it back up, and then the chassis lands back on the stops halting downward progress; and the noise we hear is the bumpstops complaining about it.To get as much Up Travel i have turned mine down until its almost at the bump stop.
Wait what? If that is true; then of course by your push-down test, it will be stiff, as the suspension has almost no where to go, and the T-bars have very little preload on them..... so basically the bumpstops are bouncing it back up, and then the chassis lands back on the stops halting downward progress; and the noise we hear is the bumpstops complaining about it.
In this instance,I can't see your push-down test being valid.
We need a new test.
I'm thinking to get the chassis up high enough to let the wheels hang. Then push the T-bars out. Then, shocks still off; jack the wheel up somehow to then just rip the jack out and watch the wheel fall down in freefall.
What'll that tell you? Idk, I'm not a racer, but I'll watch that video at least 10 times lol.
Remember to leave enough shock on it, for landing,lol.
There site say HIGH quality ball joints.ball joints, low resistance ball joints too!
There site say HIGH quality ball joints.
hope 70aarcuda will give his opinion on his upper control arms
I would like to use some sort of measuring device like a fish scale.........think i would max the scale out with my current setup.
Use a bathroom scale between your floor jack and the lower control arm
My E-body chassis manual for front end alignments say
1/8" toe in
left caster +1/2 degree
right caster+1/4 degree
Caster (w p/s)+3/4 degree
With a race car only. what spec would you/ should you change.
Drag Racing car