This is my crank pulley. Its 7.5 inchesMy son's WP pulley is at his house. I've got his crank pulley. I can tell you that 7" is way too big for the WP. As I recall it's under 6". I'll see if I can get it from him tonight. I've got the AC pulleys on my 440 so that doesn't help.
So, what do you suggest I do to align the two pulleys? Something to do with balancer?
I'd get the correct pulleys.
I thought the change was for 71 and up but it could be 72 but yes, you have the just of it.Correct me if I'm off a year or two.
71and back had one bolt hole that was not concentric.
72 + on the bolt holes were evenly spaced this is on the crankshaft pulley I'm talking about.
Correct me if I'm off a year or two.
71and back had one bolt hole that was not concentric.
72 + on the bolt holes were evenly spaced this is on the crankshaft pulley I'm talking about.
You can take a chainsaw chain file or a rat tail file an oblong one hole to make that pulley work.
If you look at the brand new aluminum pulley sets for Big Blocks and small box you will see they all have one hole that is oblong. That way the pulley fits all years of motors.
I believe the pulley I used was from a 1969 383 motor.I thought the change was for 71 and up but it could be 72 but yes, you have the just of it.
Never could understand why they indexed the pulley.
I thought the change was for 71 and up but it could be 72 but yes, you have the just of it.
Never could understand why they indexed the pulley.
Maybe but the 440 didn't go cast til mid 73. The 340 did in mid 72. 72-74 400 4-spd had a forged crank.
Would that be a big block only thing because you can buy a small block damper with removable weights for internal and external balance.The reason I thought the break was between 71 and 72 was because 72 went to external balance Motors.
I thought the cast crank motors used the even spacing for the bolt holes
I just had it pressed on with my hand so there may be some truth to what your saying...perhaps bolting it down tight and placing a small spacer on the WP pulley will do the trick...in that pic , the crank pulley looks crooked compared to the water pump pulley possibly giving the illusion it's really far off. those crank pulleys sometimes fit real snug on the balancer and have to be pulled on with the bolts.
were they lined up before removal ??
And just in case anyone still thinks the pulleys line up.
That water pump pulley is probably 1/4 inch off compared to the crank pulley groove.
That'd be a belt eater even if a belt did stay on.
View attachment 1715531571
Shim the water pump pulley , cut the fan spacer off if need be to make up for it , ---no biggee .
I use a hole saw, and a lathe --------------aluminum, got a .062 one on it now if I remember right .Exactly, and one point I'd like to make about shimming a pulley like for a water pump.
Most think shimming is putting washers under the pulley and how hokey that is to do, but that's not the only (at home) way of doing it.
I take a piece of metal the thickness I need and use a 4" grinder with a cutting wheel to get my general shape.
Then I'll use a grinding disc to finish the shape (a circle in this case) and drill it for the pump shaft and bolt holes.
Touch it up with a flap disc, paint it if I feel the need and there ya go, a nice solid and flat spacer.