RandyB
Well-Known Member
My manual says .17 for the point gap on my 273 that sound right? It’s still not firing
My manual says .17 for the point gap on my 273 that sound right? It’s still not firing
You are right, I saw the .17 on a you tube video. All I have are point gaperNo it doesn't. It says .017. .17 is .170. That said, if you use a dwell meter, it'll be much more accurate.
So I’m gonna gap it at a flat part of the cam to .17 correct?I knew what you meant.
In an emergency you can use a matchbook cover to set the gap on your points. A lot of people don't carry a dwell tach around in their back pocket or a dwell meter either.
Up on the peak.
Put the zero in after the. To make Rusty Happy or else leave the. Off. .017 or 17
Thinking of just going heiBy the way the closer the points are together the higher the engine Revs. That's why we used 16 quite a bit.
Now here's some more info for you. You will notice that the spring for the point has a slotted opening where you hook the wires up that go to the coil and you hook your condenser to. Now if you push the spring in to where it shortens the points spring that gives you more tension on your points which also allows you to rev higher.
The negative side of having more tension on your point is that you will wear them out quicker and have to replace them sooner.
My manual says .17 for the point gap on my 273 that sound right? It’s still not firing
That don't mean that it won't work at any other point gap.......
I knew what you meant.
In an emergency you can use a matchbook cover to set the gap on your points. A lot of people don't carry a dwell tach around in their back pocket or a dwell meter either.
So I’m gonna gap it at a flat part of the cam to .17 correct?
Did that Sir and still no fire.points have to be exactly on the highest part of the points cam. Clean up the ‘ cam’ set the points then put alittle lube on the cam. If you set the point gap on the flat part , it will never work
Did that Sir and still no fire.
It did run before I got my damn hands on it. I put a D4B manifold on it and a 4 barrel Edelbrock carb on it. Replaced the stock manifold and stock carb with them. Took the transmission out to get rebuilt and took the distributor out because the engine might of tipped back causing the distributor to hit the firewalldid it run before you changed the points ?
I did see one time a set of points that were bad out of the box ( shorted to ground).
Start at the basics
Power going to the points
If you crank the motor with a test light on the wire coming out of the points ( to the coil) it should flash. if it doesn’t , it’s the points . If it does , it’s something else
Thanks for your support bud!If you're that close and no fire, something else is wrong. It's not your gap.
I like 'em all, great rides. You'll figure it out.Thanks for your support bud!
I’m not giving up on it it will be a nice ride