K.O. SWINGER
Meeting in the alley since 1976
First workup to panty dripper and after that panty dropper is a piece of cake.
Ive seen estimates from 11-20 percent horsepower loss by driveline drag and friction coefficientsANd that's not flywheel horsepower but wheel horsepower. What does a drivetrain loose? 40 horse?
Depends, auto or manual trans. What rear axle 8 3/4 or 9 3/4, lightweight internal trans parts, driveshaft, steel wheels, torque converter etc. etc.ANd that's not flywheel horsepower but wheel horsepower. What does a drivetrain loose? 40 horse?
ps most man trans about 10%Depends, auto or manual trans. What rear axle 8 3/4 or 9 3/4, lightweight internal trans parts, driveshaft, steel wheels, torque converter etc. etc.
Damned amazing ain't it? lolAgree with RRR. [ Twice in one day! ]. Edel cams suck.
Ever seen a performance build or article that uses an Edel cam?
Yea I am sorry, I do not have all the specs written down as the previous owner past away shortly after i purchased the vehicle. I can do a compression check on a few of the cylinders to give an idea of what the compression ratio is but aside from that not sure without taking the cam out and heads off know what exactly i have. I am also not against nitrous, but i just fear myself having to fill the bottle often as i tend to get the itch while driving to just give it a go when i make my way to large open roads lol..... I'm essentially a 16 year old trapped inside a 38 year old's body.There are way too many questions and not enough solid answers to provide proper feedback.
Could use a lot more camshaft
Performer RPM cam (even the flat tappet) is far from a stock cam:
- Lift: .480''/.495''
- Duration @ .050: 238°/246°
- Advertised Duration: 300°/308°
But still pretty mild by todays standard
- Stock 383 roadrunner 4bbl was .450/.468 lift with 268/284 duration The duration at .050 lift is 214/225
So went to get some tuning done and my 383 only laid down 329 hp and 356tq to the wheels on a Dyno jet
Call Oregon cam grinding (in Washington) and ask for Ken..Any cam you would recommend with hydraulic lifters and 1.5 rollers up top? I know, without knowing the rest its hard to really make a reccomendation but to just get me in the ballpark to focus my research and limited time would be appreciated. I love this forum, you guys are beyond helpful
Car is a 69 notch originally a /6 that was a hot mess when i got it. I have sorted the suspension for the most part, the wiring, etc. It has a alum a833 4 speed with 3.91 8 3/4 rearend. 15X7 inch steel wheels, and 2.5 inch exhaust from the headers to the turn downs right before the rearend. I am considering pulling the engine this winter and tearing it down anyway and might just go full stroker but i want to make sure i spend the money wisely. That is pretty interesting about the cam regrind, and I was also told by a coworker to perhaps move to solid lifters vs the hydraulic... Again, i appreciate the helpSome of us can tell a whole lot about things in what seems like an a**-backwards way.... Please give some specs about the entire car and drivetrain, and try to go to the local drag strip and get a few good time slips, then repost some results here. HTH, Lefty71
Overdrive..?All aluminum 4 speed??..
i thought the 440 would be an issue with things like the heater blower motor, and other items. Plus, i can not find a 440 block for less than a grand. I was also looking at 400 bottom ends but i figure since the car is going to sit over the winter and the trans is being torn down anyway.... yea lots of things to consider.... i do know one of my salesmen who builds race hemis is willing to essentially build the engine for almost nothing to help me out makes this decision easier.More food for thought. If you're talking about tearing this entire engine back down to the block again and having it reboard and buying a stroker kit for it and a new cam and new lifters???..
Again food for thought in my mind I'm thinking for a few hundred dollars to get a 440 block and start this process for pretty much the same amount of money and end up with a 505...
Leaving your 383 100% intact and either reusable or resellable to recoup... Also usable until the 505 is done... Then it's just a matter of switching out some exterior components, alternator... etc...
I would think the 440 would be pretty much in the same configuration as a 383 but I'm not positive on that...i thought the 440 would be an issue with things like the heater blower motor, and other items. Plus, i can not find a 440 block for less than a grand. I was also looking at 400 bottom ends but i figure since the car is going to sit over the winter and the trans is being torn down anyway.... yea lots of things to consider.... i do know one of my salesmen who builds race hemis is willing to essentially build the engine for almost nothing to help me out makes this decision easier.
I was also looking at 400 bottom ends but i figure