What is a 42RH Transmission?

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340inabbody

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Guys is the 42RH transmission a 904 series with 4 speed overdrive? Is is compatible with a 904 installation? Are they stronger than a 904 ie 5 band?
 
I don't think the work that needs to be done, is worth using a 42RH. Tail shaft is larger, (You may have to mod the floor pan) drive shaft is different length, I think the trans mount is different, no speedo cable hook-up. I'm sure there are other problems.
 
42RH is a hydraulically controlled 4 speed automatic overdrive based on a 904. Compatible, no, work has to be done to fit one in a Abody due to length and girth. They are typically behind 3.9 v6s and 318 v8 s so I’d say they are similar in strength to a 904. But can be built to handle a good amount of power.
 
Basically the A500/42RH is the OD version of the A904 family. Hydraulically controlled as opposed to the 42RE which is electronically controlled. They were used in V6 and 318 Dakotas, vans, and light duty pickups.
The big overdrive housing on the tail of the transmission necessitates substantial floor pan and transmission crossmember modification, as well as fabrication of a new transmission mount in order for it to work in an A body.
42RH still has a speedometer drive that is compatible with the gear and adapter housing from the 904; many used a drive that mounted a VSS, just remove that and install the standard speedo drive. You will most likely need a longer cable since it is located further to the rear on the 42RH.
 
No floor pan surgery necessary, at least not when I put one in my Duster. Torsion bars cross member needs to be skinnied up in the trans tunnel though. New trans mount cross member does need to be fabricated. I may have better pics at home.

Cley
IMG_20180414_105120_402.jpg
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20180323_103151.jpg
 
There are (or were) 1 or 2 threads on here with photos on the crossmember mod. Most guys use a healthy piece of strap steel to form a hoop up under the floor to bolster the strength that was removed when cutting down the upper mount. I don't remember I think Greg, Trailbeast? posted one thread
 
So an unrelated question. Is there any way to determine if a transmission (904) has been “rebuilt” without opening it up?
 
May be some tell-tale signs of the trans. being removed, bolt head witness marks, trans. lines witness marks etc. but, I don't think there's a way of telling it was rebuilt unless the pan is dropped, at least.
 
There are several folks using the RH42 behind smallblocks here (including me). As stated above there is work needed to the torsion bar carrying frame member along with a serious heavy duty crossmember to take up the slack for what you cut out. That is most easily accomplished using a US Car Tool crossmember that they offer for an A516 in an A-body and modifying it. Yes you need a shorter driveshaft. There is only some mild massaging with a large hammer on the floorpan, that you will forget about once the carpet is in the car. No cutting and welding of the floor.

This trans is probably not the best for a very high horsepower motor, but for a mildly hotrodded 318, 340, 360 it is great. In addition to the serious overdrive 4th gear it has lower first and second gears than the old 904 and uses a lock up converter. I can cruise at 75 on the interstate at 1900 rpms.
 
There are several folks using the RH42 behind smallblocks here (including me). As stated above there is work needed to the torsion bar carrying frame member along with a serious heavy duty crossmember to take up the slack for what you cut out. That is most easily accomplished using a US Car Tool crossmember that they offer for an A516 in an A-body and modifying it. Yes you need a shorter driveshaft. There is only some mild massaging with a large hammer on the floorpan, that you will forget about once the carpet is in the car. No cutting and welding of the floor.

This trans is probably not the best for a very high horsepower motor, but for a mildly hotrodded 318, 340, 360 it is great. In addition to the serious overdrive 4th gear it has lower first and second gears than the old 904 and uses a lock up converter. I can cruise at 75 on the interstate at 1900 rpms.
What gear do you run with yours?

Cley
 
2.94s, but if I think I'm headed for 3.23. With the overdrive you could run 3.91s on the street and still cruise at 75 at 2400. I think Trailbeast is running 3.55s in his with that trans. When figuring it out don't forget the lower first and second gears compared to a 904.

here is the gear spread:
Trans 1st 2nd 3rd 4th
A904 2.45 1.45 1.00
RH42 2.74 1.54 1.00 0.67
 
The big overdrive housing on the tail of the transmission necessitates substantial floor pan and transmission crossmember modification, as well as fabrication of a new transmission mount in order for it to work in an A body.
Particularly a pre-'67 A-body. Very detailed thread with pictures here.
 
Yep, 42RH with a 3.55 sure grip in an original 73/74 8.25.
The Jeep Grand Cherokee gears fit with different carrier bearings and the disc brakes bolted right up.
Adding the disc requires longer wheel studs.

disc.jpeg


IMG_0819.jpeg
 
No floor pan surgery necessary, at least not when I put one in my Duster. Torsion bars cross member needs to be skinnied up in the trans tunnel though. New trans mount cross member does need to be fabricated. I may have better pics at home.

Cley
View attachment 1716353475View attachment 1716353476View attachment 1716353477
Clelan, those are AWESOME pictures for those of us that wanted to see the minimal amount of material removed to make this happen. The transmission mount is also slick and gives a good idea of where the pads for the rubber mount will end up. If you have more pictures, it would be AWESOME if you could share. Thank you again!!! Getting ready to put one in this feb or march in my '73 more door.

-Frank
 
What was the last year for the RH?

I want to say 95 or 96, right?
 
What was the last year for the RH?

I want to say 95 or 96, right?
I think 96 was the changeover year from OBD1 early in 96 and prior to OBD2 some time mid 96 and later. OBD1 PCM had one large connector. OBD2 had three smaller connectors in line. All OBD1 vehicles with overdrive transmissions are the RH series. After that, I "think" all of the OBD2 vehicles with the overdrive transmissions were the RE series. There may be some overlap.

Note: when I say RH series, that includes the old numbering of A500/A518 too.

Side note: There were OBD2 vehicles built with three speed automatic transmissions, so I specified overdrive above.
 
Yep, 42RH with a 3.55 sure grip in an original 73/74 8.25.
The Jeep Grand Cherokee gears fit with different carrier bearings and the disc brakes bolted right up.
Adding the disc requires longer wheel studs.

View attachment 1716353792

View attachment 1716353793I'm converting my 8.75 to the mid 90s Jeep GC backing plate adapters using the new green bearings but i`m not crazy about how the backing plate butts up against the bearing snap ring. The backing plate axle hole is slightly larger than the tight fitting retainer plate that is normally used and isn't a great fit up against the snap ring. I guess i can place the bearing retainer plate on the outside of the backing plate but that seems kind of weird. Have any of you guys run into this when converting over to this set up? Is there a wider snap ring being used out there, or do we just pray and trust this wimpy little snap ring will hold the axle in? Sorry, don't want side track the post.
 
From most everything I have seen and heard is that the green bearings are a mistake.
A friend used them and lost the passenger side on the freeway throwing gear oil all over the brakes and the rear of the car.
300 tow bill.

Here’s one.
https://www.youtube.com/results?sp=mAEA&search_query=Chris+birdsong+on+green+bearings
Thanks, I`m not as concearned with the actual quality of the bearing as I am with the durability or reliability of the very thin snap ring holding the axle in. Are you using adjustable tapered bearings on the axle pictured above ?
 
Thanks, I`m not as concearned with the actual quality of the bearing as I am with the durability or reliability of the very thin snap ring holding the axle in. Are you using adjustable tapered bearings on the axle pictured above ?
Sorry, I forgot that thats a 8.25 with press in bearings. Seams to get a little tricky getting the GC backing plates to work on the 8.75 with the damn tiny green bearing snap ring.
 
Thanks, I`m not as concearned with the actual quality of the bearing as I am with the durability or reliability of the very thin snap ring holding the axle in. Are you using adjustable tapered bearings on the axle pictured above ?
My axles are the C clip type with floating calipers.
 
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