1968 Dodge Dart GT Sleeping Beauty?

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Hopefully another will adopt you soon. I like most critters, but I will dispatch any copperhead or cottonmouth with extreme prejudice.
 
Did you talk to corey stark? He has always been really good to me on exhaust work. He is in the 295 ft lee area
 
The Dart is heading back out to Chad on Sat/Sun. I hope she is running and stopping by Monday or Tuesday. We are waiting on a few parts that are due any day.
 
Dart is running. Motor started first turn. I have to change the radiator lower outlet to the passenger side. Shop that pressure tested it is going to do it next week. Transmission is working. 80 PSI oil.

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Brakes are functional but soft.
Ammeter disconnected and new 10GA wire ran through the bulkhead. Gauges mounted and checked. Tachometer found a place. The gauges are more like idiot lights.

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You might be ok.

I took these photos from my 67 dart and 273.

Al measurements are thru the centerline of the 2bbl left to right

About 1/2" to the top of the post and fender top inboard of the outer peak.
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About 3/4"
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About 7/8"
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About 1"
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I put a blob of playdough on the air cleaner and closed the hood. about 2 1/4 from the hood insulation to the inner ring of the air cleaner.
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So based on all this I measure 1-3/8" from the fender edge to the insulation
 
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Be sure to scrape the paint off the firewall under the mounting points of the ignition module , do put dielectric grease there also. Be sure the underside of the module also has no paint at the same area. The case needs a good ground to work reliably .
 
GGs66GT said:
Be sure to scrape the paint off the firewall under the mounting points of the ignition module , do put dielectric grease there also. Be sure the underside of the module also has no paint at the same area. The case needs a good ground to work reliably .
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We actually added a ground as that was an issue at first.
 
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Front carpet

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Nice to get the seats installed.
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Fewer parts sitting around. Thresholds and kick panels should be next. Carpets are left oversized to be trimmed.
 
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Kenny's (Kenny Melton) in Richmond is one of very few shops still in existence in the area. He told me that there were over 300 shops when he started back in the early 70's.
I had him pressure test my original radiator. It passed with flying colors. Now after going from a 273 to a 318 the lower water outlet needed to be on the passenger side. I thought about an elaborate hose set-up, which did not make any sense. I tried to figure out what water pump would make my problem go away. I looked at after market aluminum radiators and almost all of them have some disclaimer that there are small differences. Also my stock radiator surround would not work.

Kenny said he could change my outlet to the other side.
After two weeks, I reached out to him and he said he could not do that with where my automatic transmission cooler was located. Also the petcock was in the way. When I went to pick it up, I asked what was the real issue. It didn't make sense to me. He showed me the transmission barbs. He was not sure how far to the side that the cooler tubes were extended.
I said the radiator is wall art at this point, lets cut it open. We eliminated the petcock and I will have it back next week, he has already finished the job. Whatever the cost I am ahead of the game. Having a stock look was important to me.

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what year is your engine? if it is 69 or older and you try to use the drivers side timing mark it will not be correct. The 69 and older damper is set up for pass side timing marks and the drivers side timing mark is NOT 90 deg different, so you can not just use a different cylinder. You ill need to create a new TDC mark on the damper. NOW if the engine is 70 up and you have a 70 up damper your fine!
 
Dana67Dart said:
what year is your engine? if it is 69 or older and you try to use the drivers side timing mark it will not be correct. The 69 and older damper is set up for pass side timing marks and the drivers side timing mark is NOT 90 deg different, so you can not just use a different cylinder. You ill need to create a new TDC mark on the damper. NOW if the engine is 70 up and you have a 70 up damper your fine!
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70 and up. Moving the bottom outlet made things simple, plus I really wanted to use the original radiator.
 
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FYI... I put my spare in upside down so the air valve is accessible. It requires a little rearranging of some of the parts, but fits well.
 
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Radiator installed. New lower hose took 2 days to arrive. New water pump leaked. Another new gasket. Valve cover was leaking another new gasket. Water coming from a bolt in the water jacket. New longer bolt threads sealed that issue. It moved under its own power. First time it loaded without a winch. Motor was heat cycled. Oil pressure after it heated was 35 PSI. Next is exhaust and alignment. I have shops picked out.

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