Even a complete novice would pick up on an engine with jumped timing, because the sound of the engine is vastly different when the timing chain jumps even a single tooth.
Need help ?
- Thread starter Benjamin F Cothran
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junkyardhero
Well-Known Member
NSS won't preclude spark, it only disables it from cranking via the key in gear.
which all of that hooey could be eliminated with a few jumpers and a remote starter switch to isolate where the problem exists and narrow down the focus.
Yeah, good luck with that.
Benjamin F Cothran
Active Member
I just pulled all 8 plugs . Look nearly new & dry . I cleaned them with a small wire brush . I am getting a good spark in between the plug points when turning the engine over . Also , I felt gas spray out of the plug hole in the block . Moving the throttle back shoots a good stream of gas into the carb . I have replaced the neutral safety switch with a new one . I will have to get some starting fluid & give that a try . I am working by myself , so it is to hard to test voltage while turning the remote starter trigger .
Benjamin F Cothran
Active Member
I have good spark in the plug gap . Plugs were not wet . I only drive around 1500 miles a year & the plugs , wires , cap , rotor , points & condenser were new only a few years ago . Not enough milage to wear anything out . I have been retired for 17 years & by myself now . No one around to add a extra set of hands . I need and extra set of wheels as backup to my 1977 Dodge D-150 half ton pick-up truck . I bought it new in 1977 . 318 engine , automatic .
So you have spark. You have fuel. Are the butterfly’s actually opening? I have no idea how they would not be but this is getting weird!
jeff alder
Well-Known Member
yep if there is fuel and spark in the combustion chamber (AT THE RIGHT TIME) it should fire.
furrystump
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or even the wrong time it’s going to pop/snort/kick back/make real unhappy noises. Well he has two of three, compression tester?
Benjamin F Cothran
Active Member
I tried the starting fluid and the engine did NOT fire up ? My Dad was a diesel mechanic . I have his tool box . I remember seeing some large dial gauges . Maybe one will fit the 18 m/m hole in my block ?
Found my Dad's compression gauge . I removed all the plugs and held the gauge firmly against the spark plug hole in each position . Used the remote starter to compress each hole . It averaged around " 60 " between the 8 plug holes .
Found my Dad's compression gauge . I removed all the plugs and held the gauge firmly against the spark plug hole in each position . Used the remote starter to compress each hole . It averaged around " 60 " between the 8 plug holes .
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jeff alder
Well-Known Member
If you have been dumping fuel in the carb and spraying starting fluid in the carb I would certainly expect the plugs to be wet. Especially if you have been doing a lot of cranking with a no start condition.
70SwingerGuy
Well-Known Member
Actually, you should never use vaseline on electrical contacts, vaseline is an insulator, not a conductor, it does NOT conduct electricity, it actually prevents the flow of electricity. Instead, you should be using dielectric grease, it both helps prevent corrosion, AND allows electricity to flow freely.
I used vaseline for years too, until I got schooled. Look it up if you dont believe me
dmopar74
Well-Known Member
Dielectric grease is also an insulator, look it up if you don't believe meActually, you should never use vaseline on electrical contacts, vaseline is an insulator, not a conductor, it does NOT conduct electricity, it actually prevents the flow of electricity. Instead, you should be using dielectric grease, it both helps prevent corrosion, AND allows electricity to flow freely.
I used vaseline for years too, until I got schooled. Look it up if you dont believe me
jeff alder
Well-Known Member
Yes it is. I had a maintenance guy back in the 80's smearing a thin layer of dielectric grease on 3 inch hockey puck diodes in a Dynapower DC rectifier. It smoked everyone of them and we couldn't anodize anything until I could order a complete set and resurface all the copper compression conductors that pinched them in the rectifier. Dielectric grease is definitely an insulator!
jeff alder
Well-Known Member
70SwingerGuy
Well-Known Member
Looks like I learned something today! I did look it up, and it turns out that dielectric grease is better than vaseline though, even though both are non-conductive.
Thanks guys
Not sure if he really checked if jumped
Did some stick a banana in his tail pipe.....
Funny backed into a dirt ditch
Clogged tail pipe
Took a while to figure it out
Did some stick a banana in his tail pipe.....
Funny backed into a dirt ditch
Clogged tail pipe
Took a while to figure it out
To be done correctly, the carburetor should be held open to allow full flow without restriction. At least that is what I have been told and do.
jeff alder
Well-Known Member
I was thinking the same thing...LOL Eddie Murphy may have been lurking around the neighborhood.
Dielectric grease is also an insulator. It is to be used to seal the connection from the elements, not to put on the metal terminals just the boots or other seals
middleagecrisis
Well-Known Member
If it’s getting spark to the cylinders in the starting fluid should have had some sort of effect. 60 psi is way low, even for the butterflies being closed on the carburetor. You can always open the butterflies and check one cylinder to see if it reads 60 to match your previous reading. Honestly, I’m stumped at this point.
@Benjamin F Cothran
Side note. I had a car the started running super rough and after I barely made it to work would not restart to go home, I put a coil, rotor and cap on it still nothing. Occasional pops and backfires etc.
When I got it home I pulled the 75,000 to 100,000 reman distributer and put the OEM dist that had sat on the shelf for 25 years in and it fired right up.
My conclusion was the reman dist had about 1/4" of up and down play and it was causing the rotor to make and break contact with the center electrode of the cap
Not saying that's your issue but it's easy to check.
BTW...
Do you have all your old parts that you could put some or all back on to eliminate the new but bad potential issues.
BTW#2
If you pull the fuel pump you can look at the timing chain and see it looks TOO loose
- You have checked that the rotor turns when engine is cranked.
- You have checked that you get spark
- You have checked compression (IMHO 60 is really low, like bent valve low, but on all cylinders is unlikely so it might be warn out, dry cylinder walls, throttle not held fully open during test OR the tester is shot)
- You have reported the plugs are dry
- You have not reported back that you verified firing order and rotation
- You have not reported back the voltages around the ballast (ie going to the coil) during cranking and run key positions.
Side note. I had a car the started running super rough and after I barely made it to work would not restart to go home, I put a coil, rotor and cap on it still nothing. Occasional pops and backfires etc.
When I got it home I pulled the 75,000 to 100,000 reman distributer and put the OEM dist that had sat on the shelf for 25 years in and it fired right up.
My conclusion was the reman dist had about 1/4" of up and down play and it was causing the rotor to make and break contact with the center electrode of the cap
Not saying that's your issue but it's easy to check.
BTW...
Do you have all your old parts that you could put some or all back on to eliminate the new but bad potential issues.
BTW#2
If you pull the fuel pump you can look at the timing chain and see it looks TOO loose
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PRH
Well-Known Member
How many “pumps” on the compression gauge to read 60psi?
If it’s like 4, and the gauge is accurate…….. I’d be thinking the timing chain jumped…….especially if they’re all about the same.
If it’s like 4, and the gauge is accurate…….. I’d be thinking the timing chain jumped…….especially if they’re all about the same.
Yup chain
Spin it the crank back 1/4 turn the forward see how much crank turns Before the rotor turns
Spin it the crank back 1/4 turn the forward see how much crank turns Before the rotor turns
Benjamin F Cothran
Active Member
But not with that type of gauge. Yes that's a "compression gauge" but he will have more accurate results with. a screw in style.
I've never had much luck with those rubber stopper style that you just hold against the spark plug hole. Gey as much leaks around the rubber stopper as what actually works the gauge
I've never had much luck with those rubber stopper style that you just hold against the spark plug hole. Gey as much leaks around the rubber stopper as what actually works the gauge
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