Need help ?

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I’d be borrowing/renting a different compression test(screw in style) to verify the cranking pressure numbers.
If they’re really in the “60psi in 4 pumps” range, the cam timing is likely off a tooth or more.
That being said, I’d do a leak down test before I pulled anything apart.
 
What year d100
I somehow missed that
Mines a 67 Texas truck
So hard to find anything for it
Cab is almost done
Front floors and rockers
 
Benjamin F Cothran said:
With key off , both sides of the ballast resistor has no voltage .
With key on , I have 10.5 v on the engine side and barely moving the needle on my volt meter on the outside .
Remove the yellow wire from starter relay and key on , I get 10.5 v on the engine side and barely moving on the outside
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Ok .

Nice improvising, now go on Amazon and buy a real volt meter :poke:

Battery has 12v, key in run you have 10.5v on the ignition side.

That's a 1.5 volt voltage drop. That is a lot of resistance in the system.

That you have less than 10.5 on the ignition side would suggest the ballast is functioning correctly BUT... that might mean you only have 5v to the coil when it needs 8 to 10 to run correctly. Without a proper volt meter you just don't know.



Getting the same voltage in start as in run suggests that the ignition switch is not working correctly.

The ignition switch should supply full battery voltage to the distributer (outside) of the ballast when the key is in the start position. You are getting the same in both the run and the start



To test this theory, charge the battery. Then attach a jumper wire from battery positive to the coil positive and attempt to start the car from the ignition switch. The jumper bypasses the ignition switch to power the coil, but still allows you to use the key to turn the engine over. To turn the engine off turn the key off AND remove the jumper from the battery and coil.

Dont run it this way for more than a few minutes as full volting the coil will kill it. Also don't leave the jumper attached while you do other things.
 
Benjamin F Cothran said:
I replaced the points & condenser inside of the distributer after it would not start the next morning .
Could the chain jump the next morning while it was running fine when I cut it off the night before ???????????
Engine was rebuilt in 1995 by Little & Jenkins in Roanoke Rapids , North Carolina . A major engine rebuilder for the east coast . Left the car and they removed my engine , rebuilt it to factory specs and I picked it up about a week later once finished .
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I've never trusted the compression testers like you used. The rubber ends always get hard and fail to seal. You need the screw in type with the o-ring on it to seal good. You can get one from any auto parts store's rent a tool program and get your money back when you return it, or just buy one. Having two older vehicles, you should have one in your toolbox anyway. I would recheck compression with one of those and report back. Although sure, it's possible the timing jumped, I put that on the very last list of things that has happened. I'd want to eliminate a faulty compression reading first. It's always best to verify.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Even a complete novice would pick up on an engine with jumped timing, because the sound of the engine is vastly different when the timing chain jumps even a single tooth.
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Even with the timing jump, you would have some type of miss-fire or pop. I'm not sure on this car but were the timing gear teeth steel and not nylon as the later tears? Steel gears should last longer than 146,000 miles as this car is and as a daily driver. I'm looking more into the first problem and not the one now. Were the points pitted and or locked up. That could be the start of the problem and not setting the points correctly, could be the problem now. I have a duel point in my stock 340 4-speed and it takes me an hour to set the points correctly, with even taking out the distributer, in and out several times. Setting the points correctly with the distributer up against the firewall, I would find it difficult to do. Not sure if it matters, but it looks like the coil is up against the vac. canister on the distributor.
 
With that many miles on the engine and assuming the timing chain and gear are original, the problem is likely a broken timing gear. What year did they stop using the nylon coated timing gear on the crankshaft? I just went through this same issue with my Poly 318. It was easy do diagnose by removing the distributor and spark plugs and then rotating the engine back and forth manually roughly 20-30 degrees. If the gear set and chain are intact, the rotor should rotate both directions immediately as you rotate the crankshaft by hand. When the gear is broken, there will be a delay in rotor rotation when you change direction of crankshaft rotation.
 
Points were not burnt , but I removed them & added new points & condenser . Point gap set at .016" . I just removed the distributor cap to check . Using a remote starter , I turned the rotor 360 degrees & the point gap opens 8 times . It is not completely closed .

I replaced the ballast resister when I started trying to get the car running .
 
earlymopar said:
With that many miles on the engine and assuming the timing chain and gear are original, the problem is likely a broken timing gear. What year did they stop using the nylon coated timing gear on the crankshaft? I just went through this same issue with my Poly 318. It was easy do diagnose by removing the distributor and spark plugs and then rotating the engine back and forth manually roughly 20-30 degrees. If the gear set and chain are intact, the rotor should rotate both directions immediately as you rotate the crankshaft by hand. When the gear is broken, there will be a delay in rotor rotation when you change direction of crankshaft rotation.
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Engine was rebuilt in 1995 . Probably less than 20,*** miles since that time . I do not know if it has a steel timing gear ? I did turn the crank shaft to TDC and the rotor points to the #1 cylinder . Front left side of the engine .
 
Benjamin F Cothran said:
Engine was rebuilt in 1995 . Probably less than 20,*** miles since that time . I do not know if it has a steel timing gear ? I did turn the crank shaft to TDC and the rotor points to the #1 cylinder . Front left side of the engine .
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Understood
 
Benjamin F Cothran said:
Engine was rebuilt in 1995 . Probably less than 20,*** miles since that time . I do not know if it has a steel timing gear ? I did turn the crank shaft to TDC and the rotor points to the #1 cylinder . Front left side of the engine .
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and is the plug wire for number one lined up with it at that point? Has the distributor been turned enough to miss the fire?
 
I don't recall if you said you have removed the valve cover, but if you are at TDC and the rotor is pointed at #1, the valves should both be fully closed on cylinder one after the intake stroke and ready to fire. I believe #6 would also be fully closed following it's exhaust stroke. With any variation from that, you will know that something has moved.
 
He says someone rebuilt engine
Did they use correct dampner
 
nutz said:
He says someone rebuilt engine
Did they use correct dampner
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I do not know ? I do not even come close to being able to rebuild an engine . All I was told was it was rebuilt to original specs . That was 1995 .

Little & Jenkins in Roanoke Rapids did the rebuild with my original engine . I live in Richmond VA. Could get as rebuilt replacement engine locally , but L&J pulled my engine & rebuilt it . I left it for about a week & returned to pick it up . They are a LARGE engine rebuilding outfit on the east coast . Getting used engines on flat bed trailers by the hundreds a year . A huge shop .
 
Is your exhaust plugged a baffle broke in my brothers car and plugged the exhaust and it would not run also herd of laminated pipe restricting exh flow
 
Cranking vacuum will tell if it's a compression or clogged exhaust
60psi won't fire
 
Car ran fine with no sign of trouble until after I parked it one night . Next morning the engine turns over but does not start . I do not have a vacuum gauge .

I just pulled all eight plugs & removed the distributor cap . I put a 1 1/4" socket on the crank shaft and turned it clockwise until I saw the rotor move . Then I reversed the socket direction counter clockwise and there was immediate movement in the rotor . ZERO backlash !!!!!!!!!! Still stumped !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Make sure you didn't pinch the condenser or points wire in the distributor. Buddy of mine did that on his 52 MG-TD.
 
I'm not criticizing...well, maybe a little, BUT, if you do not have vacuum gauge and you own an old car, that's like goin to a whorehouse without any rubbers.

You gotta have some basic tools. That said, I don't think that's your issue, but without a vacuum gauge, you won't know for sure, and you'll not be able to make diagnosis on something that requires one in the future.

I saw where you said the points don't close. Are you saying they don't close AT ALL? They need to close completely in order to complete the circuit and charge the coil.
 
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