Need help ?

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I'm, like others, wanting to see cranking vacuum even though I had never even heard of that test until this thread. It seems like the fuel is not getting into the cylinders although I'd think ether vapor would go far enough to at least get a sputter. Just spit-balling and probably full of crap but could the PCV valve be stuck open causing a massive vacuum leak when trying to start? Does it rattle?
 
Have you, by chance, tried giving it a shot of ether in a few cylinders and then replacing the plugs and trying to start?
 
The points open and close as the rotor turns . They are NOT stuck or burnt .

What is a good vacuum gauge to buy ? I bought this car new in 1967 & never have needed or used a vacuum gauge so far .

I have used starting fluid & the engine did not start .
 
RustyRatRod said:
I'm not criticizing...well, maybe a little, BUT, if you do not have vacuum gauge and you own an old car, that's like goin to a whorehouse without any rubbers.

You gotta have some basic tools. That said, I don't think that's your issue, but without a vacuum gauge, you won't know for sure, and you'll not be able to make diagnosis on something that requires one in the future.

I saw where you said the points don't close. Are you saying they don't close AT ALL? They need to close completely in order to complete the circuit and charge the coil.
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And for $25 get a real compression tester
 
Benjamin F Cothran said:
The points open and close as the rotor turns . They are NOT stuck or burnt .

What is a good vacuum gauge to buy ? I bought this car new in 1967 & never have needed or used a vacuum gauge so far .

I have used starting fluid & the engine did not start .
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I know you've tried starting fluid in the carb throat but I'm talking about a shot directly into the cylinders just to see if you can get at least a sputter as an ignition test.
 
i know that we're 6 pages in, but have you confirmed spark?

like grounded a plug to the motor and kicked it over and heard that sharp snap and saw a bright blue flash. not on some inline tester. not on gauge. not on some light.

like honest to sweet 6lb 7oz baby jesus grabbed a hold of the fugger and been zapped spark.

cuz if not, we all over here just jerking off into the wind.
 
7/16. Valves covers. Visual. Your timing probably skipped as has been said multiple times. It is easy to see. You will be removing them to do the timing chain anyway.
 
gdrill said:
7/16. Valves covers. Visual. Your timing probably skipped as has been said multiple times. It is easy to see. You will be removing them to do the timing chain anyway.
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Didn't OP's post #123 rule out the chain? He stated no slop when reversing the crank. I'm really wanting a resolution for this one so I know what to check when it happens to me. :)
 
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1973dust said:
Didn't OP's post #123 rule out the chain? He stated no slop when reversing the crank. I really wanting a resolution for this one so I know what to check when it happens to me. :)
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Spark, Check. Fuel, Check. Rotor pointing at the wire, Check. Valves moving correctly, unknown. There are not a lot of options.
 
quote >> It averaged around " 60 " between the 8 plug holes .
imo >>> not enough compression to lite the candles !

you say it has solid lifters a 273 had adjustable rockers. could be valve adjustment way off holding the valves open result > no compression
 
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stroker402 said:
quote >> It averaged around " 60 " between the 8 plug holes .
imo >>> not enough compression to lite the candles !

you say it has solid lifters a 273 had adjustable rockers. could be valve adjustment way off holding the valves open result > no compression
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I adjusted the lash not to long ago , 1st time since rebuilding , but the engine has been running fine . .013" intake and .020" exhaust .
 
compression ,or timing
you have spark and fuel, if chain is good key way stripped
cranking vac is easiest ,a screw in compression gage next
 
Call the local mobile mechanic. You need a new set of eyes on this thing. If he's worth his salt, he should be able to diagnose it in about 15 minutes.
 
Ive seen something similar on these pages and as I remember that guy swapped distributors and (I don't remember what he found if anything nor who it was) and it fired right up.... but that's been a while.....my other thought is glazed, gas fouled plugs...... flood it "good" and thats what happens..... I cant remember how many (but it was a bunch) how many vehicles I had towed into me for a "no start" at a past job and Id put a set of plugs in IN THE PARKING LOT and theyd fire right up.... other thought is water instead of gas in the tank....
 
Have you done ANYTHING anyone here has suggested? Did you get a GOOD, SCREW IN compression tester? If you won't follow advice, WHY ON EARTH are you asking for it?
 
volaredon said:
Ive seen something similar on these pages and as I remember that guy swapped distributors and (I don't remember what he found if anything nor who it was
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That would be me, the old dist had about 1/4 inch of slop up and down. My theory is the rotor was making and braking contact as it tried to run.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Have you done ANYTHING anyone here has suggested? Did you get a GOOD, SCREW IN compression tester? If you won't follow advice, WHY ON EARTH are you asking for it?
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Ease up RRR, He’s verified that the timing chain hasn’t jumped, he’s tried shooting starting fluid into the carburetor, he’s tested for spark, he’s done about everything that’s been asked on these last six pages. For the record, I don’t think the 60 psi per cylinder is correct either, but cut him some slack. The car went from running fine to not running overnight. He’s changed out a crap ton of parts, but the end result is still the same. The engine does not run and nobody’s been able to help him figure out why. I think, like suggested above, he needs to have another set of eyes look at this car to figure out what’s going on.
 
There is spark....& there is spark. A good spark has a bluish tinge to it.
About 18 yrs back, I got towed home after my GTO stalled at traffic lights....would not re-start. Was using HEI but I had the coil mounted separately to keep it cool. I was getting 'spark', but still would not start. Changed the module, dist, leads, jumper direct to HEI but still would not fire. Didn't change the coil because I had spark, right? In the end, the coil was the only thing I had not changed, so I changed it. Bingo, fired up right away.
Coil resistance measured ok but that coil must have been failing under load.
 
A good spark tester will load the coil
Old Hondas were known for that
Cap would fail and would spark but not enough to jump a gap in the hole
 
Benjamin F Cothran said:
Car ran fine with no sign of trouble until after I parked it one night . Next morning the engine turns over but does not start . I do not have a vacuum gauge .

I just pulled all eight plugs & removed the distributor cap . I put a 1 1/4" socket on the crank shaft and turned it clockwise until I saw the rotor move . Then I reversed the socket direction counter clockwise and there was immediate movement in the rotor . ZERO backlash !!!!!!!!!! Still stumped !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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With all of these failed start attempts, is there a strong odor of raw fuel/start-fluid coming out of the exhaust pipe? I've seen rodentia fill an exhaust with dog food overnight, try attaching a shop-vac to the tailpipe & see if it labors quickly, if so You may have a plugged/collapsed exhaust.
 
get a hot battery, give the gas pedal 2 pumps and hold it to the floor, make sure the choke butterfly is wide open , and crank the engine over at least a minute or two. till engine fires up. bet it is just flooded the @@@@. old cars are just temper mental.
All this dicking around and it probally just something simple .
 
Tried to start the engine with butterfly open & 2 pumps held to the floor . Nothing even close to starting happened . Cannot get a hot battery unless the engine is running . No gas smell in the oil or exhaust pipe . It was not likely flooded , as I have not tried to start it in over 24 hours .
I agree , probably something simple . That should cover me with a simple mind !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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