4spdragtop
Well-Known Member
Smell yer dipstick....
Need help ?
- Thread starter Benjamin F Cothran
- Start date
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I know I can, but not everybody,.......& Eewwwww!!!
Benjamin F Cothran
Well-Known Member
Oil smell , but no gasoline .
Benjamin F Cothran
Well-Known Member
Compression tester is on the way . Due April 10th / 14th .
Kuz
Active Member
A Recap.
!967 Barracude, 273 CUI, 2BBL, Auto.
REPLACED NOW:
Fuel Pump.
Neutral Safety Switch
Points. Gap set at .016”
Condensor
Ballast Resistor
SWAPPED with known working part:
Coil
Voltage Regulator
Starter Relay. I took this to mean the one on the driver's side behind the battery.
CLEANED:
Spark plugs. Plugs looked new and dry.
Negative battery cable on both ends, positive battery cable on battery end.
REPLACED A FEW YEARS AGO:
Plugs, wires cap, rotor, points & condenser.
Adjusted valve lash to .013 Intake and .020 exhaust.
TESTS DONE:
Compression test with gauge of unknown accuracy. (I say this based on its age). 60 PSI after 3 or 4 “pumps” on the compression gauge needle.
Carb squirts gas down Venturi.
Spark visible at spark plug with the electrode grounded against the engine. (Undetermined how strong the spark is, nor whether it occurs at the correct time).
Rotor points to #1 cylinder with engine at TDC. Rotor turns when starter is cranked. Distributor body has not been rotated, it’s in the same position it was when the engine ran.
Tried using starting fluid.
10.5 V at ballast resistor with key on. Battery may have been low during this test from previous cranking.
Checked timing chain backlash by rotating engine back/forth and watching rotor reverse direction accordingly. No visible backlash in rotor.
No gas smell in oil or exhaust.
Tried the jumper wire from the battery + side to the coil + side and it did not start, but the starter turned the engine over as before.
DRIVING HABITS/MISC:
Drives 1500 miles a year. Engine rebuilt in 1995, less than 20K on it since rebuild.
I see where a compression tester is on the way. That’s good, you can verify the accuracy of your dad's gauge. You had asked “What is a good vacuum gauge to buy?”. I’ve got a 40 year old Craftsman, still works. Unless someone on this forum has a suggestion, I would just pick one up at the local auto-parts store. They are handy and will tell you a lot about the mechanical "pumping" ability of your engine. It is after all, an air pump. In the mean time, I have two questions.
How do you know the useable coil that you swapped with is good?
Humor me on this one. Have you by chance replaced the distributor cap (and rotor), or simply sprayed the inside of the existing cap and distributor with WD-40? I keep coming back to "Parked it at night & the next morning it would not start." What happened overnight?
!967 Barracude, 273 CUI, 2BBL, Auto.
REPLACED NOW:
Fuel Pump.
Neutral Safety Switch
Points. Gap set at .016”
Condensor
Ballast Resistor
SWAPPED with known working part:
Coil
Voltage Regulator
Starter Relay. I took this to mean the one on the driver's side behind the battery.
CLEANED:
Spark plugs. Plugs looked new and dry.
Negative battery cable on both ends, positive battery cable on battery end.
REPLACED A FEW YEARS AGO:
Plugs, wires cap, rotor, points & condenser.
Adjusted valve lash to .013 Intake and .020 exhaust.
TESTS DONE:
Compression test with gauge of unknown accuracy. (I say this based on its age). 60 PSI after 3 or 4 “pumps” on the compression gauge needle.
Carb squirts gas down Venturi.
Spark visible at spark plug with the electrode grounded against the engine. (Undetermined how strong the spark is, nor whether it occurs at the correct time).
Rotor points to #1 cylinder with engine at TDC. Rotor turns when starter is cranked. Distributor body has not been rotated, it’s in the same position it was when the engine ran.
Tried using starting fluid.
10.5 V at ballast resistor with key on. Battery may have been low during this test from previous cranking.
Checked timing chain backlash by rotating engine back/forth and watching rotor reverse direction accordingly. No visible backlash in rotor.
No gas smell in oil or exhaust.
Tried the jumper wire from the battery + side to the coil + side and it did not start, but the starter turned the engine over as before.
DRIVING HABITS/MISC:
Drives 1500 miles a year. Engine rebuilt in 1995, less than 20K on it since rebuild.
I see where a compression tester is on the way. That’s good, you can verify the accuracy of your dad's gauge. You had asked “What is a good vacuum gauge to buy?”. I’ve got a 40 year old Craftsman, still works. Unless someone on this forum has a suggestion, I would just pick one up at the local auto-parts store. They are handy and will tell you a lot about the mechanical "pumping" ability of your engine. It is after all, an air pump. In the mean time, I have two questions.
How do you know the useable coil that you swapped with is good?
Humor me on this one. Have you by chance replaced the distributor cap (and rotor), or simply sprayed the inside of the existing cap and distributor with WD-40? I keep coming back to "Parked it at night & the next morning it would not start." What happened overnight?
Last edited:
Kuz
Active Member
A couple more things come to mind.
Have you checked the distributor shaft side play? I'm talking about the shaft that the rotor slips on. Can you move it forward/rearward at all?
Questions if you have the tools. You sound like a person that tunes up their own cars, so you may.
Do you have a dwell meter? If so, what does the dwell angle read while cranking the engine? I believe 30-35 is normal for your car, but someone on here will know for sure.
Do you have a timing light? If so, where does the timing mark appear when cranking the engine? Is it close to where it normally is? I understand you just changed points so the timing may have moved a bit when you did that. But a timing chain that jumped a tooth will throw your ignition timing off by 15 degrees or so, sometimes you can't even see the mark because it's moved behind a pulley.
How did the car run the day/week before it died? Anything unusual?
Have you checked the distributor shaft side play? I'm talking about the shaft that the rotor slips on. Can you move it forward/rearward at all?
Questions if you have the tools. You sound like a person that tunes up their own cars, so you may.
Do you have a dwell meter? If so, what does the dwell angle read while cranking the engine? I believe 30-35 is normal for your car, but someone on here will know for sure.
Do you have a timing light? If so, where does the timing mark appear when cranking the engine? Is it close to where it normally is? I understand you just changed points so the timing may have moved a bit when you did that. But a timing chain that jumped a tooth will throw your ignition timing off by 15 degrees or so, sometimes you can't even see the mark because it's moved behind a pulley.
How did the car run the day/week before it died? Anything unusual?
Something that is still unknown is if the ignition switch ign 2 is providing bypass voltage to the ignition during cranking. Hot wiring the coil plus to battery plus did not allow car to start so that might be irrelevant.
OP said he got voltages at the coil positive in run of 7 to 12 depending on points open or closed.
But during start key position got varying voltages or perhaps mVs
OP said he got voltages at the coil positive in run of 7 to 12 depending on points open or closed.
But during start key position got varying voltages or perhaps mVs
stroker402
1968 dart GTS convertible
make sure the harmonic balancer did not slip/spin
Benjamin F Cothran
Well-Known Member
Car was running fine until I parked it one night . Next morning , starter turned the motor over , but would not start the engine . It has been the same for two weeks or more .
Another member said to replace the rotor & distributor cap , which I plan to do along with new wires . Bought a new coil & need to install it .
I have a dwell meter & timing light . I have not tried them since it is not running .
Another member said to replace the rotor & distributor cap , which I plan to do along with new wires . Bought a new coil & need to install it .
I have a dwell meter & timing light . I have not tried them since it is not running .
stroker402
1968 dart GTS convertible
you have to crank the engine over for at least a minute or two straight without lifting your foot up off the floor. that will clear any abundance of fuel in the cylinders and dry the plugs off so they can ignite. get a new battery if not up to par.
Benjamin F Cothran
Well-Known Member
Battery has a 6/22 date on it . Die Hard 3 or 4 year life ? Checked 12.67 volts charged up .
Kuz
Active Member
The dwell meter and timing light should both work while cranking the engine. The engine doesn't need to be running for those tools to operate.
I was looking for some free tests you could do with the tools you already have on hand. I understand the compression tester is a few days out still.
is there anyone near Henrico , Virginia ?
MILO
Well-Known Member
yes he did
post 156 outlines what has been done to date
post 156 outlines what has been done to date
MILO
Well-Known Member
If op was closer I would go help and we could get her purring
Plugs are clean and dry?
Squirt some fresh gas into the cylinders, install plugs and crank?
Squirt some fresh gas into the cylinders, install plugs and crank?
I had a very similar experience with my old D100. I could see fuel in the bowls and the squirters were working so I figured it must be the ignition. After trying a lot of stuff checking for spark and timing I poured some gas in the carb and it ran for a few seconds. I poured in some more and it ran a few more seconds. There was water in the gas and although it looked like the bowls had gas, it was really water. Pumped out the tank into a clear container and got about a gallon of water out of the tank.
70SwingerGuy
Long Haired Freaky Person
I could see this if the car started and then died out after the water made its way to the carb(maybe someone put water into the tank), but this is a ran one day, didnt run/didnt even sputter the next scenario. This is so strange that if the OP had started this thread this a couple of days later, Id bet it was an April fools joke!
Benjamin F Cothran
Well-Known Member
I buy my gas from the same 7-11 store for my Barracuda and d-150 Dodge pick-up . I have no choice but to drive the truck now and it runs fine . I did get water in the tank of my truck many years ago . Every time I pulled up my steep driveway , water in the float bowl moved into the engine & the motor nearly cut off before getting up the hill . I had trouble getting the tank empty , so I ended up removing the tank to get the water out .
I don't think so. I said all that on PAGE SIX. Get it?
There is still the bad neighbor and the potato in the exhaust!
What is the aftermarket gauge under the key?
these are the spark testers i have
vacuum gage would show that..............
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