Recent content by 408STRKR

My 69 Valiant does not have a terminal block in-line with Alt side, alt to junction box and to the ammeter. So where is a safe option to tie in to the alternator side prior to ammeter? Jay

Great info, that’s likely what’s happening as the system is grabbing from battery side of things. When you say “headlight” terminal block, do you mean tap into junction box spade connector terminal, existing fuse box terminal, or just find the wire under dash and cut/ splice into? Best, Jay

Flexlite cooling fan on relay (high cfm), my secondary fuse box running all my accessories minus the amp is coming from a free (key switched) tab on the factory fuse panel. Does this mean I should power this prior to the battery side and where is a good location. My multimeter fried the other...

69 Valiant with 70 style alt (tested and good) and new Mopar reg. Brand new red top optima battery (old one fried after 4 years. New engine harness, junction box and terminals male and female, electronic Hei msd ignition. 2600 cfm fan on toggle switch, amp running all 6 speakers, secondary fuse...

I do have the adjustable strut rods from RMS as well as UCA, but I agree with you. The rims looks fantastic but prefer the front about another 1/2-3/4 lower. One guy told just to mill the rim 2mm and should be ok..... but I am not in agreement with that option.

That is great info thank you. It would break my heart to trim the inner fender lips, only need 2-3 mm at most

Hey guys, Purchased the 17 in rally’s from year one for the 69 Valiant. Rears fit great, fronts with 225 wide still rub fender lip at times. I have read that B and E body arms are shorter by 1/16 to 3/8, will they fit an A body k frame/ spindles? Basically trying to gain more neg offset on the...

Yes 8 inch and 4.25, 225 45 17 tire and they are 69 drum spindles converted to ssbc disc. They will fit better on barracuda.

Here she is gents, not too bad in the front.

Ya but then I wouldn’t have the mopar rallye :( . More period correct kinda:p.

Frick.... ok thanks fellas.

See where this spacer is, is it possible the taper of the ends more positive than another style spindle which doesn’t use the caliper spacer? Looks like another spacer keeps the rotor from moving in further as well from the base of the spindle.

Understand, what about machining the taper of the splindle back further so the brake rotor itself moves more negative? Or the brake rotor hub?

Mill the front wheel hub? Is that safe based on torque procedures and stress from weight etc? That article I’ve read, I contacted the Geoff guy in it and he advised it’s probably the Ssbc brake conversion to disc which caused the positive offset for me. He advised to try an E body spindle as the...

Who’s car is this? How can I contact him? Steve Shannon?