Recent content by CoolDave

Update as of this afternoon.. Voltage at the coil is good in run and start, voltage to the ignition module is good, continuity in the wiring to the coil/distributor checks out also. I found some minor corrosion buildup on one contact of the ignition module that runs out the distributor pickup...

That would be great. I feel like it’s probably a poor connection or ground somewhere too. I have also already found and repaired a bad connection at the electric choke baseplate where it would occasionally short and cause a stall. I’m sure there’s going to be something similar I stumble upon.

Good starting point, I’ll inspect those. Not specific to this issue, no. It’s been so intermittent and random, I did one day start looking with a meter and sure enough, the second I turned that thing on the truck kicked over. That’s why I was asking if there was any weird little commonly known...

Got a little bit of a weird intermittent issue, I’ll try keep it concise, looking for ideas before I go chasing it down.. Motor is a 360, sitting in a ‘73 D100 with the auto behind it. The issue I have (today) is that the truck will not kick over. It cranks strong and I have fuel to the carb...

A first for me, a brand new steering wheel.. coming along!

Just stumbled onto this thread.. car is epic, can’t wait to see the finished product! Wheel spacers aren’t the end of the world if they’re decent quality and torqued down properly.

Minor updates.. Figured I needed a tachometer to really nail down my idle adjustments so I grabbed a universal one from the local parts store. Took a little work to mount, I’ll still have to get back in there and tweak it but it’s secure and functional.. Then I also managed to pickup a used...

“Driven 300 miles.” I think there may be some digits missing..

Minor updates.. Bumped initial timing up a couple degrees, all-in mechanical is now hitting 30-31 degrees. So at this point it’s getting to a point where I feel I can start to tinker on improving things and fine-tuning stuff rather than just getting it to a consistent state. Bearing that in...

Alright so small update.. Pulled the EGR valve, it actually had a hairline crack between the two ports. Cut out a metal block off plate out of some shim-stock, sandwiched it in with a skimming of high-temp silicone. Then over to the distributor side.. moved the vac advance line to the...

Nailed it, I knew it was a Holley style and started with a 2 but so many variants! I’ll dig through that link. Thanks! Fuel tank has a vent hose that would have run to the canister hanging under the bed to where it can’t get dirt or moisture in it. Trucks parked outside 24/7 so I’m not too...

Here’s the best picture I have right now for the carb, I’ll snap some more next time I have the hood open as there’s a few other things the service manual doesn’t offer much guidance on. For the distributor I’m sure I could probably get away with just the vacuum can and I may take that route...

I have the service manual, I originally had it set to factory spec on the timing, I only bumped it up after losing the vacuum advance out of curiosity of how it would respond. I am considering just picking up another new distributor locally as the one I got online is obviously questionable. I...

A lot to digest here so I’ll dig in properly when I’m looking at the truck. I did pull the carb and crack it open when I got the truck, it was actually pretty clean inside so I threw in the basic seals and slapped it back together. Fuel pump eccentric seems to be shot so I added a cheap electric...

Thanks all! I’ve been thinking about how to concisely sum up the basic work I’ve done to it since I got it home so let’s just start with a list of new parts.. IGNITION/ELECTRICAL: Distributor, cap, rotor, coil, wires, plugs, ignition module, starter relay, ballast resistor. I also cleaned...