I replaced both the alternator and the VR ground the coating off the VR and the
fire wall to make a good connection for the ground. I worked for a short while
and then quit charging.
I have replaced the alternator and voltage regulator ground the firewall and back of the voltage
regulator in seems to charge until it gets warm then stops runs just at 12 volts. Even with the electric fan running doesn't seem to charge
My 1970 Duster with 727 trans doesn't want to lock into park or start in park will start in neutral but
won't start in park and won't lock up in park so that it doesn't want to roll.
So I ended up sending the original master cylinder and booster to Power Brake Booster in Washington to have them go thru them the replacement set up doesn't work right. So will see what happens with the original repaired and reinstalled thank you for all the advice
So who can I order the pushrod from that may be the issue I lubricated the linkage at the brake peddle and now it returns so that
the brake lights go off.. But still doesn't stop like it should
So it was a power brake car we did bench bleed to new master cylinder it came with the new vacuum booster. We bled all the brake lines and adjusted the rear brake pads
disc front drum rear it will stop if you are going slow but takes at least 60 ft to stop at 35 mph. The car was stopping ok last...
we had brakes but they got to where you really had to stand on them to stop
we replaced both the master cylinder and the vacuum booster that came together in a set is it possible that the linkage from inside off the peddle doest match the brake peddle doesn't want to return so the brake lights...
Have replaced the master cylinder and the vacuum booster bled the lines and still no brakes
could it be something in the brake pedal linkage? Need help[