Recent content by Jim Kueneman

Lake actually designed that breakin oil. He is being modest.

That is what Lake said. Use the ZR1 Valvoline in classics BUT REMEMBER it is a racing oil and breaks down FAST. Change it often. Jim

After break in absolutely, that is what Lake (oils geek guy) actually recommends for classic cars (not necessarily just for the zinc content though)

No it should be dedicated break in oil (like Joe Gibbs) that tends to be low detergent typically (if is recall Lakes video correctly he developed the Joe Gibbs oils)

Not low detergent oil. The additive detergent they were using then was causing the problems. They changed the detergent additives to something that did not wash the zinc off the surfaces.

That is the real key Rob. The real problem that was found during the zinc fiasco back in the day was the detergent was washing the zinc away. It ended up being lore that you need a special zinc oil for these old engines. Any oil is fine these days as they’ve figured out the detergent problem...

Completely agree with that. base/clear is way more forgiving to get a great job but requires more work. I tell people I am a crappy painter but a great sander/buffer.

I have painted 6 cars in the last 8 years. This last one was solid single stage, won't do that again. It fought me every step of the way. Automotive Arts Motobase and Southern Polyurethane's Universal Clear have been the rest. It is so much easier cutting a buffing high solid clear than...

Sorry I’m working on that now and freaking hate it. I am not a truck guy. 1972 F100 short box four-wheel-drive. Got roped into doing it for a friend whose dad bought this truck back in the early 80s from the original owner.

Will decide next year.

Break in oil has several thing different including more zinc and and no friction modifiers. I love one of the comments in this: "If oil companies found any use for anything else to add in then they would and charge you for it." Anything you add to the oil either does nothing or actually makes...

I struggled for years with FreeCad and its workflow. After using OnShape for the last few parts I made it is a MUCH easier learning curve than FreeCad for the way my head works.

The drum is swedged onto the hub. That said if you press the studs out you can open the holes in the hub so that new studs won't stay in. The right way is to drill out the drums close to the studs so the swedging on the studs is removed and they will press out of the hub without damaging it...

That is awesome and I bet it gets more people gathering around it. Any big block car.