Recent content by kiyoshi

any ideas? :\ -kiyoshi

I looked over a few fsm's and tried to figure this out for certain, but was slightly confused by one piece. I've pictured the front and back of all of the steering column seal components I have. The only seal that is confusing me is the one I already have installed on the middle black...

Little update on what I was working with: MN38100 - OE style top-upper shock bushing MD2197 - what I believe is bottom-upper shock bushing First photo: -top left are the two piece bushings I was trying to replace as they did not work. I had to buy a little rubber bushing to fill in the ID of...

Been searching around and having trouble confirming two pieces of information. Quick information, I removed my shocks and noticed that it was using a two piece upper shock bushing and had the incorrect ID, in turn allowing about 1/4" of 360 degree motion in the shock mount itself. This worried...

I need to take the time a little later to reply to everyone BUT on a side side side (side?) note and so as to not revive a dead thread itself: How to install front shock upper bushings? 68 Dart in this thread.... are they... confusing strut ROD (the lower control arm in to k-member) bushings...

excuse me while I go choke on air while reading that.... ahem.... TWO FIFTY FIVE'S?? granted that is a later year but DAMN.... hats off to you for getting that under there holy cow lol also 275's?!?! that's just... i got some thread/pic searching to do >:) -kiyoshi

"Having low body roll in cornering does not equate to strong lateral grip" how do i extra bold highlight italic font size 800 this? -kiyoshi

I.... wow.. this was exactly what I needed to hear.. and I believe I've seen this reply from you in a couple other places. I remember specifically the sway kit name and honestly coming from certain drift/grip setups, 2 degrees of camber is NICE. I could take that. I would love to run a wider...

exactly the one I was thinking of, and in fact a little scared to utter his name given the numerous amount of times he's had to go over this with other's lol. swayaway also makes a 1.14 and 1.2, but I don't think I'll want to deal with the 1.24"s... maybe by that point just have welded on some...

this is exactly (not) what I wanted to hear! :D .... seriously though damnit lol. I was somewhat hearing this as well... seeing some later a bodies run 1.12"s, I can't remember his name but the pfp is a mesh wheel and has been on multiple torsion bar thread replies. Very detailed replies as well...

also just as an aside, it was nice to find out recently about the degree of clocking both companies do so as to retain ride height etc in relation to the original zero clocked design. cool little mental note for me to remember. -kiyoshi

Yes. Before you ask, yes, I looked. In fact being autistic.. I've probably spent far too many DAYS total researching this... but just can't come to a solid conclusion. So lets cut to the chase: '64 valiant with 5.9 360 in it. Planning on tracking/ time attack eventually. Most information I see...

................. :) -kiyoshi

Thank you for this as well, I was looking in to some other videos regarding small block mopar timing etc and came across these exact tips as well regarding finding exactly where the points break, as well as setting initial to maybe 10ish btdc for a smoother initial start. I haven't cranked yet...

straight edge was a little off, was hard to get in the bay but looked as close as I could get it (was going degrees of a turn with the hex oil pump priming tool to try to get it to align as best as possible to driver front intake bolt) reclocked distributor, this is what everyone is referring...