Recent content by mvh

When Alan sets out to do something, it happens rapidly. I'm all for this project, even though I didn't really have problems with the slant (other than dropping in a rebuilt 68 unit because of massive oil consumption). Since it no longer has the original engine, and I carried out other mods like...

Not all of the holes in the plug are filled with wires. Only the ones that align with pins on the board. It can be confusing because the pinout for the board is a mirror image of the pinout when you are looking at the face of the plug. It may be more useful to think of it looking at the back of...

I really think you will want to remove all the interior trim, or you won't be able to see where it is leaking.

Yes, Argent Silver is what the factory called it. You should be able to buy it from Mopar-specific vendors. Krylon Dull Aluminum is pretty close, for some parts.

Agreed. .890 would be a big block bar. No big blocks in 64-66. Even a 1968 340-S would be a .870. That said, I put .890s on my 67 273 Commando car. I think going one step up is a no-brainer for any street car — they were all kind of soft from the factory. As noted, many people go much bigger...

This style was used on some 2bbl cars, but I don't have a 2bbl base plate for it. Other 2bbl cars had a snorkel. I used to have one of those, but I'm pretty sure I gave it away.

2bbl? 4bbl? Chrome Commando or plain black? I have an unsilenced black one with CAP, same size and depth as a Commando.

I knew I had this photo somewhere.... bottom item (shiny) is a new sender from Jeg's or Summit (I forget) — exactly the same as the PlumKrazy part above (and much cheaper). Top is the factory A-body sender — completely different.

Huh, I just went to the Plum Krazy site, and the unit they are selling with that part number looks exactly like the one everyone else is selling, with the little short arm and the pivot point halfway down the tube. Image here: The factory A-body unit had the pivot point up near the exit pipe...

Sway bars don't affect the ride unless you hit a pothole with one wheel. In other words, they only come into play when one side is loaded different than the other side — that's how they prevent body roll. But if you, say, hit a full lane speed bump straight on, they have no affect on the spring...

1.08? Definitely won't bottom out, might be a little stiff for cruising... I personally like some suspension compliance — I rely on sway bars to control roll.

For comparison... Barracuda fastback with 273, .890 torsion bars, Bilstein shocks,lowered about 5/8" in front. I sawed 1/4" off the LCA stop. Does not generally hit the bump stops. Freeways here have 5" deep potholes, and I also run some sketchy back roads on occasion.

I installed a Borgeson in my 'vert. It was great. Firm and precise, with a quick ratio. Really, it's a better setup for windy roads than my fastback with manual steering, which, while precise, is dog slow.

This is a “correct” 1967 bezel for the non-retractable OEM antenna, combined with a cheap Amazon fully retractable manual antenna. Everything above the chrome base came from an aftermarket kit. I don’t recall which parts I used under the fender. The thick black plastic piece under the nut is...

You can find Mopar chrome bezels on eBay. Barracuda is unique, and 67 is different than 68-69, but you don't care about that (and some B-body ones are almost identical styling). What you need are a nut that threads onto the antenna base that you have (this should be part of the power antenna...