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Agreed. .890 would be a big block bar. No big blocks in 64-66. Even a 1968 340-S would be a .870. That said, I put .890s on my 67 273 Commando car. I think going one step up is a no-brainer for any street car — they were all kind of soft from the factory. As noted, many people go much bigger...

This style was used on some 2bbl cars, but I don't have a 2bbl base plate for it. Other 2bbl cars had a snorkel. I used to have one of those, but I'm pretty sure I gave it away.

2bbl? 4bbl? Chrome Commando or plain black? I have an unsilenced black one with CAP, same size and depth as a Commando.

I knew I had this photo somewhere.... bottom item (shiny) is a new sender from Jeg's or Summit (I forget) — exactly the same as the PlumKrazy part above (and much cheaper). Top is the factory A-body sender — completely different.

Huh, I just went to the Plum Krazy site, and the unit they are selling with that part number looks exactly like the one everyone else is selling, with the little short arm and the pivot point halfway down the tube. Image here: The factory A-body unit had the pivot point up near the exit pipe...

Sway bars don't affect the ride unless you hit a pothole with one wheel. In other words, they only come into play when one side is loaded different than the other side — that's how they prevent body roll. But if you, say, hit a full lane speed bump straight on, they have no affect on the spring...

1.08? Definitely won't bottom out, might be a little stiff for cruising... I personally like some suspension compliance — I rely on sway bars to control roll.

For comparison... Barracuda fastback with 273, .890 torsion bars, Bilstein shocks,lowered about 5/8" in front. I sawed 1/4" off the LCA stop. Does not generally hit the bump stops. Freeways here have 5" deep potholes, and I also run some sketchy back roads on occasion.

I installed a Borgeson in my 'vert. It was great. Firm and precise, with a quick ratio. Really, it's a better setup for windy roads than my fastback with manual steering, which, while precise, is dog slow.

This is a “correct” 1967 bezel for the non-retractable OEM antenna, combined with a cheap Amazon fully retractable manual antenna. Everything above the chrome base came from an aftermarket kit. I don’t recall which parts I used under the fender. The thick black plastic piece under the nut is...

You can find Mopar chrome bezels on eBay. Barracuda is unique, and 67 is different than 68-69, but you don't care about that (and some B-body ones are almost identical styling). What you need are a nut that threads onto the antenna base that you have (this should be part of the power antenna...

Yes, It looked like someone attempted a custom setup. They painted the 68 upper and lower trim red (instead of argent), and painted the center of the exposed lid black. That wouldn't really have worked with the correct 68 taillights because the red would have aligned with the white lenses, and...

I used a factory chrome fender bezel with an aftermarket power antenna. All antennas have similar hardware, there are just differences in hole diameters and thread pitch on the securing nuts. I had a pile of parts, some factory, some aftermarket, and mixed and matched until I had a combo that...

66fs mistyped his reply... he meant to say, SBP 10in rear brakes are 10 X 1.75". That is, 1-3/4 inch wide, not 2-1/2 inch wide. The width is measured on the shoe, not the full depth of the drum, FYI.

The aftermarket ones are just plain wrong, in that they sell one piece for both top and bottom. Since the bottom is the one that always gets smashed, a lot of people wound up with top pieces on the bottom. But the end profile of the top piece when flipped over doesn't match the profile of the...

Drum brakes don't use proportioning valves. That item is called a safety switch or distribution block.

Why are you saying it was a rear defrost car? Because it has those slots at the base of the window? I am pretty sure they all have slots there. Mine does, and it is not a rear defrost car — I have the window sticker to prove it. I think the only difference with the rear defrost cars was the big...

You could just make a short adapter piece using crimp-on connectors at each end, appropriate to the two items you need to connect. That should work fine for the radio — it's not high amperage and you don't get a lot of corrosion up under the dash.

The big side panel needs to be in place before those trim pieces — see Cuda Ragtop's list.

I can attest, however, that a new 11/16" drill bit cuts through those poly bushings like butter...

Well, yeah there is something missing — the long stainless molding that goes all along this edge. I was assuming he hadn't installed that yet. It's a three layer cake — there is the huge side panel, then a whole host of shiny painted odd-shaped pieces the fill in around the glass and down beside...

Hmm, my recollection from my installation 2 years ago is that the smaller shiny black pieces fit OVER the large textured side panels.

Final word: On another thread, I managed to find out the story about the upper bushing diameter. The correct Bilstein shocks for Mopar A-body are the following: Front Shocks Part number: 55-R082 10.5” collapsed height 15.75” extended height Rear shocks Part number: 55-R092 14” collapsed...

Thanks for confirming that! I will contact PST and see if I can convince them to change their listing.

Cudajim says he has power disks so I don't think the pedal will be too hard. If you didn't also grab the proportioning valve from the donor car (it is separate from the junction block) then it is not surprising that the rear brakes lock up. You can get an adjustable proportioning valve from...

I wonder where the 5/8" stud size came from. It wouldn't be any 63-up A-body, or B or C for that matter. It might be for a 1st gen Valiant... don't know, never had one.

Huh... there was a 62 Dart, but there sure wasn't a '62 Demon or Swinger. Now I want to see the collapsed height and extension for THAT number.

Hmm, when I ordered Bilstein shocks for my 1967 Barracuda from PST, they supplied 55-R093 for the rear. I don't know what the difference is supposed to be, but the upper bushings on the ones I received had 5/8" diameter holes — the studs are 11/16". I had to drill out the shock bushings.

Yeah, the overall outer size of the drum, as given by Rock Auto, is completely irrelevant. The key measurements are the inside diameter of the drum (machined surface), and the width of the friction material on the brake shoe (the machined surface on the inside of the drum will be slightly...

OK, if it's the passenger side, I will take it. My current one is pretty pitted. How do want payment?