Recent content by TT5.9mag

That’s what’s so great about boost. You don’t have to build a rowdy, temperamental beast. If it doesn’t make the power you want just turn the boost up a few psi. Looks absolutely awesome by the way.

Researching now

Haven’t heard of EcuMaxx race. Is this it? MaxxECU - The modern ECU

I’m in the planning stages of a drag and drive car for myself currently as well, and I’ll be using a turbo magnum 5.9 with a tremec T56 magnum. But mine will be blow through carbureted. I’d suggest narrowing down the hard parts of the build plan (engine, trans, diff) then decide on electronics...

Lift (or max lift) has almost nothing to do with P to V. It’s not how far the valve opens, it’s when and how long it opens. Duration has the biggest impact on P to V clearance. @Dan the man watch this video

You’ll have to define the build a little more to get better input but for a magnum with factory EFI and a 46re trans it’s hard to beat the jtec ecu with HP Tuners, prior to hp tuners support I ran an MS3 piggy backed on top of the jtec and that was a nightmare. I have experience with Holley...

:rofl: I’ve got a 1200hp turbo LS I could ship to you. Couple more psi and some methanol and you’re there. I couldn’t let you do that though. Ultimately, get the car out on the salt and make runs, have fun, make memories that you’ll never regret. If you get serious about setting that record...

I like where your head is at. But I also would absolutely love to see you get a record in a class.

Ah no inner engine compartment bodywork, I got ya. Like I said earlier, I can’t wait to see what you come up with. Just keep in mind the engine compartment is a large, low pressure area and moving (manipulating) air through, around, over it is a big deal. You definitely don’t want to pack the...

nacca ducts on the front fenders behind the tire plumbed to the engine compartment. Plumbing the engine compartment through the cowl and into the doors would be cool but too complicated imo.

Can’t wait to see what you come up with.

I’ve seen em hit at .470 true valve lift, and seen some ok at .512 true lift. Because of the horrible pushrod angle, you have to measure at the valve and not just go by the lift on the cam card. As with anything engine building, the correct answer is, you have to measure.

Hey Bill, have you tried leaving from idle and letting the engine hit the converter?

Oh yea. That looks awesome. You’re going to want to research frontal area and look to improve that. You’re basically pushing a barn door at this point.

The magnum cylinder heads will need to have the guide bosses cut down to run any decent amount of lift.