Didnt mark t-bars before removal :(

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Cameron1038

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I should have read some of these posts before doing this. But..
Im rebuilding the suspension on my 73 Swinger. Unfortunately, my car ended up with a bunch of left over 72 parts. Bummer! Anyway, pulled it apart according to my chilton manual which forgot to mention marking the bars. Im having a hell of a time getting the lca/crossmember assembly to fit onto the torsion bars so i can bolt it up. I got them to fit and then realized my adjusters were all the way in the up position.. no good. Any advice??

Thanks,
Cameron
 
bars go in very last... assemble the k and go from there... for the little arm use channel locks to swivel it all the way down...
 
You need a shop manual. I don't mean a Chiltons, Motors, or Haynes. I mean a FACTORY shop manual. Since you have a '72, you are one lucky guy, 'cause AbodyJoe has one you can download for FREE

[ame="http://www.abodyjoe.com/pictures/Misc.%20car%20info/1972%20Plymouth%20Chassis%20Serv%20Man.pdf"]http://www.abodyjoe.com/pictures/Misc.%20car%20info/1972%20Plymouth%20Chassis%20Serv%20Man.pdf[/ame]

The bars should have a number stamped on the end. The odd number goes on the driver side, the even goes on the pass side. Leave the front nuts on the LCA lower pivots a little bit loose until you get it sitting on the ground.
 
I saw the markings on the end, and i have them right as far as left vs right, but should the lines be vertcal, horizontal... or just whatever it was when i pulled them out.. which i dont know :( ?
 
Thanks 67, im dowloading now. May take a while lol.

Also I noticed even though this was a /6 car it had the 318 bars. Wierd.
 
Doesn't matter about lines as long as rt and lt are correct.

Odd number drivers side, even pass side
 
This is not working at all. Frustration level 9000. I have the adjuster arms in the lowest position possible and they still need to move a little more before they will go on the torsion bars. If i try going the other direction, the adjuster arms are all the way at the top before they go on to the torsion bars. Ive tried turning the torsion bars, but its the same deal in all positions.
 
Sometimes "you have to" "rig" it

On mine I loosened the nuts on the LCA bushings which then allows you to get up in there with a crowbar / etc and "adjust" the position of the hex until it fits. If you have to, pull the bolts/ cross nuts out of the LCA until you get the bars in. As earlier, leave the bushing pivot nuts a little loose, tighten after on the ground.
 
Thinking out loud.....fairly new to Mopar myself, a couple questions with a thought for the more knowledgeable folks!
Do bars tend to get a "twist" from many of use? If they do, could your bars have been on the wrong side and the twist being the wrong angle now that you are trying to put them in "right"? Lastly if you put a bar in that was on the other side, is there a risk of breaking?
 
I've found that the little rubber bumpers get in the way of the arm going down as far as possible.
 
Back the adjuster bolts all the way out and unbolt the lower ball joints from the spindle. Work your way back from there.
 
67Dart273 said:
Sometimes "you have to" "rig" itQUOTE]


I had to rig mine. With my vehicle on jack stands and the T-bar adjuster bolt backed all teh way out I put a jack under the lower control arm untill the the female portion that receives the T-bar clocks in appropriately. I applied grease and used a several pound sledge hammer to lightly tap it into place.
Click to expand...
 
Back off nut holding LCA, back off strut rod, remove upper bump stop or disconnect lower ball joint, back off torsion bar adjuster bolt. Once lower control arm can flop around freely, with torsion bar ends and sockets greased they should slide right in.

Don't forget to install torsion bar dust cap on bar.
 
I finally got it guys, thanks! I had to disassemble the LCAs from the cross member, put them on the tbars and reassemble. Lots of cuss words, but i got it together, lol.
 
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