Charging System Wiring

I decided to replace the alternator, Voltage regulator and plug, and Ballast Resister (If Needed).
Here are the parts
Alternator - Pep Boys (See How long it lasts)
Voltage Regulator - http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=192380&jsn=258
Voltage Regulator Plug - http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=50229&jsn=266
Ballast Resister - http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=50063&jsn=262

Does This wiring diagram look right?

Yes as far as it goes.............what did you do about the red/ black ammeter wires through the firewall?

An offhand comment...........

You are calling the ballast "dual field" and there is no such thing. I guess you could call it a "dual ballast", I usually just call it "4 terminal" so people know for certain

In fact there is no such thing as a "dual field" alternator. The proper term (right out of the Mopar factory manual) is ISOLATED field.

I do realize people call them by that term

Fusible link is a size too small. An 8ga wire should have a 12ga FL as protection.

crackedback said:

Fusible link is a size too small. An 8ga wire should have a 12ga FL as protection.

Click to expand...

I'm sure you know better than I, Rob, is that too small for a 65A alternator?

Where do you get what you use?

67Dart273 said:

Yes as far as it goes.............what did you do about the red/ black ammeter wires through the firewall?

An offhand comment...........

You are calling the ballast "dual field" and there is no such thing. I guess you could call it a "dual ballast", I usually just call it "4 terminal" so people know for certain

In fact there is no such thing as a "dual field" alternator. The proper term (right out of the Mopar factory manual) is ISOLATED field.

I do realize people call them by that term

Click to expand...

Thanks for the information.
I couldn't remember the proper name, so I pulled the dual field term... from left field. I think I read about two different resistance circuits inside them, so my morning brain mushed a bunch of information together and forced my fingers to type something stupid.

crackedback said:

Fusible link is a size too small. An 8ga wire should have a 12ga FL as protection.

Click to expand...

Thanks.
I can get that done.

Oh man, I just realized spelled fusible wrong in the diagrams. Wild turkey, mixed with a new yawk accent = spelling competition fail.

Just an FYI...

When sizing a fusible link, the FL should be TWO sizes smaller than the wire you are protecting.

On the feed into the cabin, connecting the two 10ga wires together, I'd use a 14ga fusible link.

You are basically doing the Mad wire around deal. If the stock wiring/bulkhead are in rough shape, OK. Not my favorite way to wire up a Mopar.

The 8ga wire for the charging system is fine. I sell a lot of them with a 12ga FL installed.

crackedback said:

Just an FYI...

When sizing a fusible link, the FL should be TWO sizes smaller than the wire you are protecting.

On the feed into the cabin, connecting the two 10ga wires together, I'd use a 14ga fusible link.

You are basically doing the Mad wire around deal. If the stock wiring/bulkhead are in rough shape, OK. Not my favorite way to wire up a Mopar.

The 8ga wire for the charging system is fine. I sell a lot of them with a 12ga FL installed.

Click to expand...

I installed the new alternator today, and ran the 8 gauge wire to the starter relay with a little extra, until I know exactly what i'm going to do.
I Installed the new voltage regulator, and ran the blue and green wires to the field terminals, as they were originally.

Question. The alternator is grounded to the mounting bracket right, or do I need to run a separate wire from/to somewhere?

Also, I should have mentioned this earlier, I rewired the car about a year ago, but lost my new diagrams.

I know that I followed the original wiring diagrams, but basically anything that I thought had a heavy load, I used the stock wires to run relays, and installed an auxiliary fuse panel in the engine bay powered from the stater relay which runs the components. Lights, Heater Blower motor, radio, Headlights, MSD, radiator fan, and (I think, but have to physically check to make sure, the rear defrost fan). I still need to retrace everything and label all the new fuse panel components.

I plan on installing a fusible link or fuse before the new fuse panel based on the added total amps I get per component. I haven't at this point because i am still in the making sure everything works as it should phase, and don't plan on turning everything on at once until then.

I did follow the MAD Amp gauge bypass. When I pulled off the factory tape, all wires were in pristine condition.
I drilled out the two 10 gauge bulkhead wire terminals, as well as the ignition 1 terminal, ran new wires and packed those and all other terminals with dielectric grease.

I prefer overkill, so should I ditch the fusible links altogether, and just install https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CZ2Z92/?tag=fabo03-20 with appropriate fuses from the alternator to the starter relay, from the starter relay through the bulkhead disconnect, and from the starter relay to the new fuse panel?

Thanks for the help so far.

If you can get GOOD RELIABLE fuse / fuse holders that will stand the gaff, I prefer "real" fuses over links. Bear in mind that engine heat will derate fuses and breakers, so choose your mounting area

If Rob says a fusible link should be where you drew it, I'm not going to disagree.

IMO there should also be a fusible link between the battery and the main splice. That's to protect against a short in the wires that are always hot. Any of them ground out and the battery will be dumping 450 amps.
It's a link so it can still carry normal high current loads, at least for short periods of time. Its smaller than the regular wire to make sure it fails first. Thats the concept anyway.

I decided to go with the inline fuses. They seem pretty well made, 6 gauge wire, and are pretty big. I finished the harnesses and figured out the mounting spots. I'll take pictures once they are in. Just waiting on the trickle charger, to get the battery up to full, and also a D/C amp meter so I can fuse the circuits properly.

Alternator Fuse


Amp Bypass Fuse (Left), New Circuit Breaker Fuse (Right)

Bulkhead Disconnect (Forgot to connect the choke thermostat wire, Will Splice into Blue Ignition 1)


I will probably get metal brackets to fit the fuse holders once I get the exhaust done. The way I set it up the wiper bottle doesn't fit on the drivers side. Can I mount it where I have it in the picture, and just run new hoses?