Mopar lead sled

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jos51700

jos51700

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Years ago, the vinyl top on my dart bubbled out so I pulled the top and it's been rusting ever since. It had body filter in the c pillar seams that fell out like methhead teeth. Should it have been lead? When did Chrysler switch from lead? My '75 has no top and shows no issues in the seam.

Is lead or body filler the recommended material to refill these seams with?

I'm NOT a body guy, so many thanks in advance!
 
Around 71 or 72 is when the switch was as far as I can tell. It may vary by model.
Lead is good but its hard finding someone that knows how to do it.
Epoxy prime then use fiberglass reinforced filler (gorilla hair).
 
My 74 Swinger was a vinyl top, had plastic filler in the seams. Absolutely factory.
 
I have a 74 duster, put in new tail light panel, there was lead on both sides just above outside corners, i used a torch and melted all the lead and welded new tail light panel in and used body filler in places where lead had been
 
Interdasting. Sounds like a phase-out process,....
 
Although the filler with fiberglass strands does work well, I have something that I like a lot better. It is Evercoat Metal-2-Metal. It applies like typical plastic fillers, but it's reinforced with fine aluminum particles to help produce a stronger repair. It is waterproof (unlike regular fillers), so there's little chance of corrosion under the patched areas, and it sands fairly easily. It is the nearest thing to lead you will find. I have been using it for a long time, and I really like it. There are other brands of high metal content filler, but I stick with Evercoat products when I can.
Metal To Metal Filler Quart With Hardner

filler.jpg
 
harrisonm said:
Although the filler with fiberglass strands does work well, I have something that I like a lot better. It is Evercoat Metal-2-Metal. It applies like typical plastic fillers, but it's reinforced with fine aluminum particles to help produce a stronger repair. It is waterproof (unlike regular fillers), so there's little chance of corrosion under the patched areas, and it sands fairly easily. It is the nearest thing to lead you will find. I have been using it for a long time, and I really like it. There are other brands of high metal content filler, but I stick with Evercoat products when I can.
Metal To Metal Filler Quart With Hardner

View attachment 1715416839
Click to expand...


What type of prep would you reccomend?
 
kgip2k said:
What type of prep would you reccomend?
Click to expand...
Pretty much the same as with filler. I sand the metal with 80 grit (tooth for mechanical adhesion), blow it off, wipe it down with a cleaner/solvent (I use lacquer thinner on bare metal) and hit the area with a tack rag. Mix the filler up with the hardener, and apply with a Bondo spreader. It does take a bit longer to harden than regular filler, so don't panic if it isn't hard in 3-4 minutes. Mix it carefully. When they say 15 drops to a golf ball size amount of filler, they mean it.
 
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