Changing the joint in the drive shaft ?
- Thread starter 273 ball
- Start date
-
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Well you are going to have to give us a clue
You working on a 1943 Supermarine Spitfire, or a hemi powered '28 Farmall regular?
N' yeh. It MATTERS what you are working with and even which end of the shaft
You working on a 1943 Supermarine Spitfire, or a hemi powered '28 Farmall regular?
N' yeh. It MATTERS what you are working with and even which end of the shaft
I second what 67dart273 said.
Assuming it is a 67 dart 273 automatic.
This is what I would do...
Remove the shaft from the car.
Remove the zerk
Remove the c clip
Use a socket a little smaller than the ID of the cup.
and another larger than the ID
Put one socket on one side and one on the other.
Use a c clamp to press one of the cups out.
Do the same for the other cup.
Watch for getting things cocked sideways.
Another approach is to get out your FSM and read the procedure there. Most likely they will refrence a special tool
Assuming it is a 67 dart 273 automatic.
This is what I would do...
Remove the shaft from the car.
Remove the zerk
Remove the c clip
Use a socket a little smaller than the ID of the cup.
and another larger than the ID
Put one socket on one side and one on the other.
Use a c clamp to press one of the cups out.
Do the same for the other cup.
Watch for getting things cocked sideways.
Another approach is to get out your FSM and read the procedure there. Most likely they will refrence a special tool
66 Valiant wagon
Well-Known Member
If I run into a bugger that won't budge I use a big hammer to help start it moving. Then I run a file gently around the yoke ears and start one cap. I push the u joint through the yoke into that cap so the bearings don't move, and while holding them together "tap" the cap through the yoke with a hammer to the other side. Through enough so you can put the opposite cap on and push the u joint firmly into that cap so again you don't disrupt the bearings. Then gently tap it back to center and install the clips.
If after you install the new u joint it seems stiff (not frozen as then it's in crooked) give it a good whack on the yoke and that usually frees things up for me.
Good luck!
If after you install the new u joint it seems stiff (not frozen as then it's in crooked) give it a good whack on the yoke and that usually frees things up for me.
Good luck!
ScamperTom
Supposed to be working
And for the visual among us:
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
That's the way I have been doing them for 40 years, except once it's all together I turn the shaft and semi lightly tap all four sides once, then check to make sure the joint is smooth in every direction.
The final light taps makes everything settle in.
I use two large jack stands to put the shaft on. Makes it easier for me to manipulate everything. I use a small screwdriver and a good pair of dykes for the lock clips and a large ball peen hammer get everything apart. I say large ball peen, because that way you do not have to hit anything very hard and risk damage. A lot of people will say not to use a hammer and that's fine. As long as you know where and where not to hit, you will be fine. It's very easy to do.
I wasn't aware they made vises "back that early".
-
