HEADS UP

I have been finishing up a magnum block build with edelbrock LA heads this week. I just thought I would share this for anyone doing a similar build.

I put the heads on to check pushrod and piston to valve clearance with a couple of hyd roller lifters that I made solid for checking.

I found that with the edelbrock LA heads, the magnum roller lifters were too tall to able to be removed with the heads on. I had to grind clearance notches in the heads so that they can come out. The grinding at the top arrows is more than it appears in the picture.





With the notches the lifters can now go in and out with the heads on. I had milled this block only .012, and the head gaskets were the .051 thick 8553 felpros.

Also, this motor is using 273 adjustable rockers. I tubed the intake pushrod and head bolt holes in the heads for porting.

I anticipated needing more room, so I used 9/16 tubes for the pushrod holes instead of 17/32.

I still had to grind a lot to get the pushrods to clear on the bottom side of the head. I had to cut the far side of the holes (The farthest part of the hole away from the cam) a good bit.
I had to grind out the brass tube on the back side up about 600 thousandths. This was with 5/16 pushrods.

This should be a nice street motor, KB pistons .018 out of the hole, a tad over 11:1 compression. Lunati Hyd roller 296, 304 adv. 243, 251 @.050, 560" 565", 110

I forgot to mention, that I have a set of speedmaster heads in the shop too, and they would need similar clearancing.

Mopar Sam said:

I have been finishing up a magnum block build with edelbrock LA heads this week. I just thought I would share this for anyone doing a similar build.

I put the heads on to check pushrod and piston to valve clearance with a couple of hyd roller lifters that I made solid for checking.

I found that with the edelbrock LA heads, the magnum roller lifters were too tall to able to be removed with the heads on. I had to grind clearance notches in the heads so that they can come out. The grinding at the top arrows is more than it appears in the picture.

View attachment 1715597004



With the notches the lifters can now go in and out with the heads on. I had milled this block only .012, and the head gaskets were the .051 thick 8553 felpros.

Also, this motor is using 273 adjustable rockers. I tubed the intake pushrod and head bolt holes in the heads for porting.

I anticipated needing more room, so I used 9/16 tubes for the pushrod holes instead of 17/32.

I still had to grind a lot to get the pushrods to clear on the bottom side of the head. I had to cut the far side of the holes (The farthest part of the hole away from the cam) a good bit.
I had to grind out the brass tube on the back side up about 600 thousandths. This was with 5/16 pushrods.

This should be a nice street motor, KB pistons .018 out of the hole, a tad over 11:1 compression. Lunati Hyd roller 296, 304 adv. 243, 251 @.050, 560" 565", 110

Click to expand...

Just use solid rollers, I believe they are alot shorter than hydraulic rollers and less $ money.
I hope you have a set that wont bleed down from spring pressure my Comp hyd rollers are junk.

512Stroker said:

Just use solid rollers, I believe they are alot shorter than hydraulic rollers and less $ money.
I hope you have a set that wont bleed down from spring pressure my Comp hyd rollers are junk.

Click to expand...

Melling stock replacement lifters for magnum. Under $150 a set.

I wasn't complaining about the work to fit them, just letting others know what to expect if they put these type heads on a magnum block with stock type rollers, and 273 rockers.

You are right about solid rollers being shorter, I shortened the pushrods 1.020 " from what they were with solid roller lifters.

Its the same on the mag block, using the Eddy mag heads.
You need to pull the head to remove the lifters.

Trick flows on a minor decked roller block to get a zero deck (with the federal mougal c116hp pistons) and a .027 head gasket. I can get them roller tappets in and out without head removal.

Thanks for the input on other heads guys!

I hope this thread helps a few guys out. It really doesn't take too long to make enough clearance. In fact, It took me longer to clean them up than the grinding did.

This is why everything needs to be mocked up before final assembly. It would be a shame if someone had a lifter go bad and have to pull a head to swap it out!

Rob, it looks like trick flow did their homework on their heads. Good to hear!

maybe that's why the tf's took so long-all the little details